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doruk1981

Member Since: 15 Aug 2022
Location: Aargau
Posts: 100

TD5 110 - Rear Cross member replacement

Hi,

Amongst others (engine) I need to replace my rear cross member with some parts of the extensions. Did someone use the "kit" from Jon Craddock and can share some insights on the fitment quality?

or is there a better one around? SP 4x4 has some but there you need to also screw in the cross member bolt on rail ...

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr612-11...plies.html

thanks for sharing your insights.

p.s: I'm raising this question as I have experienced bad fitments with aftermarket parts on my still in progress Datsun 240z build. Whereas Community insights usually help avoiding the bad (and expensive) apples. Td5 110 Station

4th Oct 2022 8:49pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

While I can't give you advice on which crossmember, I would suggest consider a galvanised unit.

I have just replaced my rear crossmember and I asked the same question as you did. From that post I was offered a second hand galvanised crossmember for free. It had previously been fitted to a truck for seven years but had been painted when fitted. Whilst the unit was a bit tatty as the paint had pealed in places, I couldn't see any rust and was more than happy to fit it - much better than fitting a new one that is covered in rust enhancing black paint (you know the stuff, specially formulated to hold moisture against any surface susceptible to corrosion).

I was looking at the RCP one myself. The 3mm thick was good, but the bare steel even better. My intention was to get it galvanised but even if I couldn't at least I could apply my paint of choice.

Good luck with the job.

M

5th Oct 2022 5:26am

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 737

2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey

I've recently replaced my 110 TD5 rear crossmenber with a Bearmach item, fitted well and seems quite good quailty.

I did swap out the body mounting strip for a YRM item, but I cant remember why

5th Oct 2022 8:24am

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

When you do the job remember the wiring loom is in the chassis.

5th Oct 2022 12:19pm

doruk1981

Member Since: 15 Aug 2022
Location: Aargau
Posts: 100

Thanks for the recommendations - I see that Bearmarch went out of business according to the web. I guess I'll just stick with the Johncraddock unit given I anyhow need to order other stuff there too...

Yeah I noted that I need to drop quite some stuff to get to the part..

But on the Brightside I have a reason to drop the tank and give it a proper wash and check the sending unit.
Also according to YouTube I wont need to remove the floor panel to weld it shut around as there should be enough clearance around to weld it on. (My Swiss body guy was already having wrinkles and dollar signs in his face ...)

is the understanding correct in regards of the welding accessibility? Td5 110 Station

5th Oct 2022 12:37pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 737

I had the floor out of my 110, this is where my crossmember with extentions came to, should be enough room to weld across the top... Will be awkward though

Click image to enlarge

5th Oct 2022 12:44pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

That's a neat job, well done.

5th Oct 2022 1:09pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 737

My lads welding, I reckon he's pretty good

5th Oct 2022 1:13pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

When fitting mine I found the small 25mm ratchet straps useful. I put a piece of wood across the wheel arches in the tub which I then put a ratchet strap on each side (obviously with the door open) that I hooked under each side of the crossmember - this allowed support and some adjustment to the height.

I then used a further ratchet strap on each side, outside the chassis leg, fastened to the spring bracket on the chassis and the little triangulat gusset on the crossmember. This allowed me to pull it in on each side.

The final one I used diagonally from the spring bracket on one side, over the chassis, to the crossmember triangular gusset on the other side. This allowed me to pull the crossmember across a little if needed. Reverse the positioning iff you need to pull the other way.

It's a bit of faffing about but if you are doing the job single handed it helps.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge
This only shows one ratchet strap but I don't have a photo with two.

5th Oct 2022 1:29pm

doruk1981

Member Since: 15 Aug 2022
Location: Aargau
Posts: 100

is it correct that the replacement units are all basically slip on sized? or does it depend on the manufacturer? Td5 110 Station

5th Oct 2022 1:50pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

It may be worth asking each individual supplier about this as I wouldn't know who does what. You could perhaps ask them for the sizes so that you can check them against yours.

5th Oct 2022 1:55pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8010

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Having done several this year, 4, I would suggest getting a HD galvanised one with extensions of sufficient length to remove your rust plus allow the welding to take place in an accessible place. IE on the sweep down. This allows it to be done easily with tub in situ. Plus you can use tub mounts to bolt the cross member up and ensure its in the right place. Yes they slip over the old chassis rails. Cut them long. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

Last edited by jst on 5th Oct 2022 6:15pm. Edited 1 time in total

5th Oct 2022 4:11pm

rustandoil

Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 737

The flare on the replacement crossmember can be seen here

5th Oct 2022 5:47pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8010

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293213304986

this one was surprisingly good.

Some of the others ones listed (with yellow sticker) i found td5 era onwards with captive threaded sections were in wrong place and all needed tapping. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

5th Oct 2022 6:14pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

I replaced one on a Td5 90. Went for a basic crossmember, no extensions whatsoever. Was a galvanized one from Paddocks https://www.paddockspares.com/kvb000290-td...nised.html

It was good fit on the chassis legs, welding was a PITA due to the thick galvanizing, but in the long run worth having it galvanized I guess. Since it was a 90 and no extensions, the tub had to come off.
Of course rest of chassis must be in good shape to replace just a basic crossmember. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

5th Oct 2022 6:36pm

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