 | Home > Technical > 89 Defender 90 have to SLAM doors? |
 
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 489  
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The best doors without doubt are the Original parts Puma spec ones they are a proper pressed construction so not only stonger but less welded joints to corroade. They are zinc coated so have few problems with corrosion unless badly abused which is the same for galv. |
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9th Aug 2022 3:26pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 108  
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ahh ok, so the lower door seal did you remove and leave off? Or did you remove it temporarily as it helped to better alight the door? 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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9th Aug 2022 3:49pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469  
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I left the bottom seal off for a year or two..which made the door close so nicely. Was only the driver side that was affected. Downside is that there used to be a bit of road dirt accumulation under the door.
At the moment the 90 is undergoing a full restoration, but I plan to install the sills as far in as possible. Fyi, I noted that the seatbox to sills you seem to have M8 bolts cant be sure). Factory used to install M6x25. Having M8 might limit how far in the sill can move in. I am also not sure if you have the correct sill for 1989. In 1989, the sill had a ridge (perfect for trapping dirt). For later Defenders (I do not know cut off year), the sill was a simple inverted U channel and the bottom seal was fixed to the door, not the sill, and is more flexible on later Defenders due to being a different profile. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th Aug 2022 4:19pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 108
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Are these the parts you are referring to, the retainer door sills?
https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rna0079_..._sill_seal  Click image to enlarge 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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9th Aug 2022 5:00pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4731 
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Sometimes the door hinges at the front of the door need attention. You can put shims between the hinge and the body which will bring the front of the door "out" allowing the striker front part to go in. A clumsy explanation but I hope you understand.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124577440209?fi...SwQTxgLPt3 1982 88" 2.25 diesel 1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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9th Aug 2022 5:26pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 108
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Yep this makes complete sense, as when I inspect my doors it's the front seal that is causing the tension for sure, right at the body bulge. I attached a few photos.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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9th Aug 2022 6:14pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4731
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Yep those are the spacers. You could try loosening the retaining bolts on the top hinge slightly and just bring the top out slightly and see if that helps. If it does add some spacers. It is a balance of moving the receiving unit for the lock out and adding shims to the front hinges to give more play for the lock end to close. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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9th Aug 2022 6:28pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 108
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Thanks for the help, will try that... one other thing I noticed is how the door seal has a doubling up in the bend areas... I guess this is original but I would bet a dollar I pull that inner piece out and it would be fine. thoughts? 1989 Defender 90
2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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9th Aug 2022 6:34pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469
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Never seen these before, but reading and quoting from the website “ Attaches between the sill seal and vehicle sill using new sill rivets. ..... These are shaped to provide top wear protection for the sill seal, replacing the early style metal top protector that was spot welded to the door post assembly and susceptible to corrosion.”. I made a search for the old type of sills, but cannot find online. I will try to remember and take a picture next time I go to my workshop. Just for your reference. But that piece is anyhow not solving the slamming issue. Regarding shims under the hinges, if both sides are shimmed, then door position will remain the same. But if want to try, keep in mind that there are 2 types of original hinges. The older vehicles has squarer shaped hinges, while the later have more rounded hinges. Yours are the later hinges. About removing the filler piece, I had tried that with mine... but cannot recall the exact results. What I do recall though is that the seal lost ‘shape’ and kinked at the sharper bend. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th Aug 2022 7:23pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4731
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That seal at the bend near the top hinge does seem a little proud of the vehicle. If it is a new seal it will be a little stiff. Open the door and try seating the seal on the lip as close as you can. Tap it in with a hammer and a piece of wood. Check to see if the seal is fitted as far down as it can go. It might need pulled down and tapped in. If in doubt remove the seal and see how the door closes. Refit the seal and just adjust the receiver, the top hinge out and push in the seal.
I just checked my 92 200 tdi and there is no bulge out from the seal, or on the 2.4 Pumas either .All have a shim or spacer fitted to the top hinge. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel 1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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9th Aug 2022 8:12pm |
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| Soulrider911 Member Since: 04 Jul 2022 Location: California Posts: 108
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Update...
I pulled the entire upper seal off and tested the door. It closed noticeably easier. However, as it would appear, it's the bottom seal that is causing the most tension. Also, the bottom seal appears to be a harder rubber (probably not an OEM seal). The catch on this particular door is pretty worn. So going to start with a new catch. I would love to avoid un-riveting that bottom seal. 1989 Defender 90 2022 Defender 110 SE DIY’er | Always learning |
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10th Aug 2022 3:16pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4731
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Yep the Sherlock Holmes approach...
 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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10th Aug 2022 4:57pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469
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Here is a picture of the old type of sills (I have not riveted the seal yet).
Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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10th Aug 2022 6:44pm |
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