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TC909



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Swivel pin how to guide
Anyone got a how to guide they would recommend for doing the front swivel pins on my 08 110?

Thanks
Post #960458 3rd Aug 2022 8:02pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2081

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I found this very useful.




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Post #960476 3rd Aug 2022 10:42pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Re: Swivel pin how to guide
TC909 wrote:
Anyone got a how to guide they would recommend for doing the front swivel pins on my 08 110?

Thanks


The LR manual, actually the Haynes as well are both excellent for doing this job. Our man Mike at Britannica has done a number of how-to's on swivel balls, this is a good one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptX5vK5TVmM The golden tip in it is at 9.38 where he uses soft soulder wire to calculate the shim thickness. Thumbs Up

Best advice I can give you is buy a couple of sets of new shims. Decent bearings are key. Do not be tempted with adding rubber swivel gaiters at the same time, they fall apart in moments. You will need a small scale spring balance to set the pre-load.

Whilst you are there it is worth doing these jobs as they are being removed to do the swivel job, well if they need doing that is:

1) track rod ends
2) Wheel bearings (if good these can be cleaned and re-packed)
3) Brake discs
4) Brake pads.

Hope that helps Thumbs Up
Post #960491 4th Aug 2022 7:45am
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Silver Back



Member Since: 11 Jun 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 405

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Coniston Green
+1 for Britannica Restorations' Youtube channel.

Hope it goes well.
Post #960493 4th Aug 2022 8:03am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Another vote for Britanica - though I did watch both those videos to be honest.

Also be aware that the pre-load is different for bearing arrangement compared to the rialco bush type.
Post #960604 5th Aug 2022 2:22am
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TC909



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Great stuff, thanks for the info guys! Very Happy
Post #961509 13th Aug 2022 9:54am
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TC909



Member Since: 27 Jul 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 34

United Kingdom 
Mixed comments on the internet, is the method for setting the pin pre-load different on ABS models?
Post #962217 19th Aug 2022 7:38am
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2081

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Not 100% sure.

The Haynes Manual doesn’t differentiate between ABS and non-ABS so I simply adjusted mine (ABS) to 4kg (45N).

I’ve had no problems…



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Post #962225 19th Aug 2022 8:44am
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2225

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Swivel force should be the same for all models which use tapered roller bearings top and bottom (i.e all models from LA chassis number onwards). Different values for older models which used the Railko type upper bushing. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #962227 19th Aug 2022 8:53am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
I have an older vehicle and originally I set my preload to 1.4kg (I think manual says between 1.16 - 1 46kg). I bought a fishing scale that went to 5kg so that I could easily see the correct figure.

However, I then realised a few weeks later (after reading more things on the Internet) that I had actually set my preload to suit bearings top and bottom, where mine had the top Railko bush which needed the 4kg preload! That kinda p""ses you off!!

However, on reading this thread and checking for the correct numbers I noted that some say that with ABS you have to set preload with a torque wrench using tool LRT-57-024. And setting to a torque value of between 2 - 2.8nm The tool looks easy enough to make using some flat bar and an old socket to weld on (or cut a square hole in the centre).

As I have only done this job on one front axle, and I managed to use the incorrect preload for my particular assembly, I suggest you get a more experienced member to confirm what is correct and what isn't.

Good luck with the job, but make sure you are happy with the preload and method before undertaking it, or you might have to take it apart to reset it again (as I did!).
Post #962296 20th Aug 2022 5:16am
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