 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Timing Chain snapped |
 
|
|
|
| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3502   
|
I am still trying to get my head around how a seized oil pump can snap the timing chain. Are they not 2 separate chains running on different sprockets from the crank? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
30th Jun 2022 5:26am |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39  
|
Thanks for the replies. From my understanding, the pump becomes partially seized and this puts strain on the cam chain. The cam chain being bigger take the hit.
I am not sure if the pump is worn out of not - its just I have the whole lot off and so might as well do it now. I guess a new sump tank and gaskets is added to the shopping list! |
||
|
30th Jun 2022 9:15am |
|
| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2663  
|
Glad you got the relevant info 
If I'm ever visiting Phill in Scotland, we'll hold you to it  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
||
|
5th Jul 2022 7:34pm |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
Hi friends
OK, the chain is on - but I have hit a snag and need your advice (again!). The top clamp that holds the lifters on top of the valves is held down by 10 M6 bolts. On tightening them up I snapped one! Have a look at the attached. It is the middle one on the inlet side. What should I do? Leave it out? Drill and Tap again? Taking the head off for this seems extreme. I put lock tight on the others. They all seem tight. Thanks |
||
|
7th Jul 2022 8:15pm |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
I hope you can see the image here...
|
||
|
7th Jul 2022 8:18pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3701 
|
I’d have a go at getting it out. Have you got a set of easy outs, if so start there before going the whole jog and drilling out and re tapping. Take your time and make sure you are drilling central.
|
||
|
7th Jul 2022 8:18pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3701
|
Can see that. Definitely need to sort it I think.
|
||
|
7th Jul 2022 8:21pm |
|
| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 290 
|
If you can find a set of reverse flute drills (cut in reverse) as you drill the force of drilling might start to remove the remains of the bolt as the drill bites. Good luck Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
||
|
7th Jul 2022 8:55pm |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
Thanks for the advice. I tried and tried. But I can't get it out. I have added a bit of thread lock to the others and so time will tell if this will be a problem.
|
||
|
9th Jul 2022 6:37am |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
So on a separate note: Now that I am ready to start the engine - what do I do?
I haven't technically run out of fuel - but there will be air in the system. Do I crack the inlet nut and turn the engine until diesel comes through? The last engine I bled was a Fordson Major tractor and that was relatively simple - as per above. Advice please - and if complicated perhaps a step by step guide. |
||
|
9th Jul 2022 6:40am |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
OK - final update. I got it started and it sounds like a new engine!
I put this down to the fact I cleaned out the inlet manifold at the same time as taking the rocker cover off. 2 of the injectors were not working either so I am surprised it was even running. Please can I thank everyone who has offered advice. Without this forum I would not have been able to do it. I certainly saved LOADS of time finding out that the Puma 2.4 Tdci is a non-interference engine - and I hope this thread becomes helpful to others in the future. Best wishes |
||
|
11th Jul 2022 2:07pm |
|
| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 900  
|
Fantastic news! Thankfully a lot cheaper than what you originally thought also. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
|
||
|
11th Jul 2022 2:42pm |
|
| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
|
Dear Friends It would seem that after a summer of driving - the bolts may have worked loose that secure the top clamp that bears down on the lifters. It is making a mother and father of knocking noise and it is coming from the rocker cover. I have checked the injector clamps and they are tight. Thinking back, I think I over tightened all of them and this is why they have come loose or shredded the threads completely. To be totally honest with you - looking back - I f****d it up as I borrowed a torque wrench and had the incorrect setting on it. After winding for what seemed ages on each nut in sequence, it dawned on me that I had made a major Bo Bo as none were going tight. I expect the threads at this point were  .
So I put them all in with locktite and have hoped for best since. It seems that now it has come back to bite! Does anyone have a solution to this other than replace the head which is a major job? Has anyone used Helicoils on this job? Will they be strong enough? Or is there a more robust solution? In my mind - I think it will work but as I have one bolt snapped - it might be the issue rather than the other 9 held with locktite. You thoughts would be grateful PS I did try easy-outs on the snapped bolt but I could not get it out. Is there another solution? Drill another hole in the clamp? |
||
|
28th Dec 2022 7:08pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17641 
|
Helicoils will, if fitted correctly, be stronger than the parent alloy, but you will need to sort out the sheared bolt. I think that the part with damaged threads is the camshaft carrier rather than the head, but think it would probably be inadvisable to drill, tap, and Helicoil this with it in situ on the engine due to the likelihood of swarf entering the sump and lubrication system.
I'm not sure how you can remove the sheared bolt, the usual techniques may work (drilling it out with a left-hand fluted drill, etc) if not you will possibly need to find someone who can remove it by spark erosion. A replacement camshaft carrier might be a more sensible option in this case. |
||
|
28th Dec 2022 8:12pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
