 | Home > Td5 > Non firing / engine stopping / fuel pump electrical issue |
 
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| Craig772 Member Since: 23 May 2022 Location: Cannock, Staffordshire Posts: 73   
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Hi, I recall seeing something on a YouTube video (The Doctors Garage channel), he cut open his rear tub to replace the fuel pump (apparently easier than dropping the tank) only to find the fault persisted. I am pretty sure it was intermittment and turned out it was the something in the ECU. I think it was a chip or other component, quite common and was replaced.
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29th Jun 2022 4:46pm |
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| Craig772 Member Since: 23 May 2022 Location: Cannock, Staffordshire Posts: 73
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The common fault I was thinking of was the ECU top side switch failure on the TD5 which affects the fuel pump. The fault in the video was the whole ECU was dead.
Might be worth a look. |
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29th Jun 2022 4:49pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1419 
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Check the earth in the seat box. That plays around with the temp gauge. Better still run another direct from the battery or chasis.
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29th Jun 2022 6:02pm |
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| Goldenballs Member Since: 22 Apr 2021 Location: Reading Posts: 60
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After checking a multitude of earths, I found a very suspect looking relay under the dash (as opposed to under the seat)
Turns out, according to the lid, that’s the fuel pump relay! (Doh). I’ve not seen a config online where the FPR is anywhere bar under the driver seat? Anyway, need to replace it but I’m not sure the correct relay is / was in there anyway. Could anyone give me the part number for the right relay? I think it’s supposed to be a yellow one? |
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5th Jul 2022 8:19am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 931  
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Switch it with known working yellow relay
 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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5th Jul 2022 3:23pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
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I have exactly the same issue! Truck is a MY2002 110 TD5 hardtop.
Mine is quite infrequent, maybe 1 time in 50, but my fix is always to remove the seat base, push on the relay and then the fuel pump runs. My local LR mechanic told me about this workaround. Worst time was when I was in the queue to board a ferry and it wouldn’t run! I always listen for the fuel pump now when turning the ignition on because it’s easy to drive off with the fuel that’s already pulled through and then you break down on the road somewhere. Worst time was when I pulled out of a car park to head up a twisty road in the Alps and stopped after the second bend! Very strange that this isn’t limited to just one vehicle….If anyone knows a permanent fix I’d love to hear it! |
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5th Jul 2022 7:28pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1419
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Clean and squeeze the contacts. I also found cable tying it into the holder worked for me.
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5th Jul 2022 7:55pm |
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| Goldenballs Member Since: 22 Apr 2021 Location: Reading Posts: 60
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All fixed! Dodgy relay that has been replaced. I hadn’t appreciated the vehicle would run (somewhat) without the fuel pump.
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11th Jul 2022 9:07pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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I took my truck on a long drive to Germany at the weekend and had several issues with the fuel pump.
I realised that in a MY2002 TD5 the fuel pump relay is the one on the far right (as you look into the seatbox from standing outside). Pushing down ryhthmically on the relay made the fuel pump "squeak" each time I did it, so I knew I'd found the problem. I took it out and widened the pins a little and it worked immediately. I'm going to order a new relay and check the earths. Here's the correct diagram for MY2002 onwards which may help others. I don't have factory aircon or ABS, so I have relays 3,4 and 5 in this diagram. https://www.lrworkshop.com/electrics/defen...nd-headers Am I right in thinking that yellow/black relays are identical as long as part # YWB000150 ? I will buy only genuine LR |
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12th Jul 2022 2:55pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227 
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Just use a good quality 4 pin relay. My preference would be a Tyco one (Land Rover OEM anyway) from 3 way components on ebay.
I would advise replacing the terminals in the socket too myself as there are probably past their best if you have been having issues with poor connection. Same place will do suitable ones, even with a Rists socket if required. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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12th Jul 2022 9:34pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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So just driven back from Germany with my new poptop conversion 😀 but had several more issues with whatever the problem is 😭
Symptoms are that intermittently at over 2000 rpm the engine struggles for power. Had the problem kick in 10 mins after setting off, with a new genuine fuel pump relay fitted (I now think this is a red herring) I stopped and wiggled the relay and waited 5 min and it started and ran fine for 2 hours of motorway driving…stopped for fuel and carried on for another 2 hours and then it started struggling for power. Pulled into services, played with the relay (as no other ideas) and off we went for another 3 hours and it happened again. Did the same relay wiggle thing and it was fine all the way home. When down on power it drives at just under 2000 rpm at 60mph and is ok unless you need power for a hill etc. Have done more reading and I now suspect the ECU. Lots of posts and notes from companies that repair TD5 ECUs that symptoms include fuel pump issues, not starting, problems over 2000rpm etc so this is now my next source of investigation Reviews here for the company in Derby point to similar symptoms to me https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalog...anagement/ https://www.empiretuning.co.uk/product/td5-ecu-repair/ suggests similar symptoms, and lots of other posts online hinting this could be the problem The company in Derby look good and only charge £45 if they can’t fix it so I’ll probably give this a go. My only problem is is have 2 weeks before a holiday in the Pyrenees and already have the truck booked in for some work so probably can’t do this before I go… |
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24th Jul 2022 9:31am |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1419
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I’d still suspect the relay and wiring block. As you say a wiggle cures it, maybe only temporary but sorts it. I had similar issues until I cable tied the relay into the plug. Still there over 140k miles later
It’s a lot more common fault than an ecu failing. |
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24th Jul 2022 10:03am |
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| cocker Member Since: 23 Sep 2021 Location: Merseyside Posts: 38
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Mine was doing this would crank but not fire turned out to be bad connection between the yellow relays and their bases under the driver's seat
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24th Jul 2022 10:04am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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I have a service booked for next Monday before heading to the Pyreneese on Friday - I already have a new relay so I'll get the pins replaced on the relay holder and then see what happens for 2 weeks.
If it's fixed then great, but if not I'll send the ECU off for assessment My suspicion is that when I wiggle the relay and wait a couple of mins I have already turned the ignition off, so the ECU must cycle in some way when I switch it back on and that 'clears' the issue... until it happens again. But who knows?! |
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27th Jul 2022 3:53pm |
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