Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1875
I Like Old Skool wrote:
As has already been suggested, just bridge the isolator switch with a small fuse, 3 or 5 amp should be plenty and will pop as soon as the heater plugs or starter motor are activated.
This will cover you for keeping the clock & radio active during day to day use (apart from when you keep forgetting to switch the isolator back on ) and just requires removal of the fuse for longer periods of inactivity such as winter lay-ups etc. Setting the clock in the spring after a long period is no real hardship?
Thanks, initially I was opposed, but I am starting to warm to the idea, so thanks for persevering with this.
So, I'm thinking I would locate the fuse somewhere accessible e.g. just outside the seat box so easily removed.
If I blow the fuse by forgetting to turn the isolator on I'm assuming that will not stop me driving the truck once turned on?
I am not fundamentally lazy but this is completely outside of my area of expertise so, I guess I need the following:
short length of 'wire' but what exactly?
connectors for the back of the isolator
what would be a suitable fuse holder?
anything else?
Thanks very much.
9th Jun 2022 4:33pm
CarMan
Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1875
Thinking about his some more, all I need is the bridge from this pic kindly suggested by Procta, though with longer wires to bring it outside of the seat box ideally, so where would I source that, ready made
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) and just requires removal of the fuse for longer periods of inactivity such as winter lay-ups etc. Setting the clock in the spring after a long period is no real hardship?
9th Jun 2022 5:10pm
