 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 2.2 Puma engine oil & filter change. |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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Yes, the oil service really can be prompted by poor oil quality (diesel dilution), albeit calculated rather than specifically sensed or tested. There's an excellent explanation of the logic behind the oil service message here:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post859910.html#859910 Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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30th May 2022 11:42am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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As an aside, if you're doing very low annual mileages then the quality of the oil used is less relevant as you'll always change it before it degrades significantly. I use whatever my local independent supplies but do have it changed every six months or so. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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30th May 2022 11:44am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2104
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Re best oils see https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic34176.html you MUST use low saps due to a DPF being fitted to uk 2.2’s
I use Millers XF Longlife C1 , do a search on line for best prices. Re filters, is yours the paper filter in the plastic housing, or it a metal canister filter, the later 2.2’s used the metal canister type. Easy to check just slide under the truck and look. This topic will help if it’s your first time you have done it on your defender , plus the first pic shows the plastic housing type oil filter. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8707.html I always use gen LR oil filters , they are not expensive and a quality item. On refilling with oil and checking level this will also help https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic79934...t=dipstick |
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30th May 2022 12:13pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74  
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Many thanks for the answers so far....
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30th May 2022 3:29pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74
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.....one more quick question before I buy all the necessary bits...
- do I have to replace the sump plug with a new one? (I'm guessing not) - is it advisable to use an engine flush (Wyns, etc) before I drop the existing oil - and if so, any recommendations? (Puma 2.2, 2014, 20k miles) Many thanks! |
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1st Jun 2022 10:21am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2104
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No need to do an engine flush, they can do far more harm than good.
Do buy a new sump plug as they incorporate a new rubber washer. Buy a LR original one , as some have had issues with ones from aftermarket vendors, they are only circa £3 from a dealer. |
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1st Jun 2022 11:24am |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74
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Thanks Ian
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1st Jun 2022 11:51am |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74
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Got it draining….how long would you let it drain for?
I used to run a Citroen ZX with a 1.9XUD engine in it back in the 90’s. I used to leave that drain for a few days if I could(!). Not so sure about more modern engines though(?). Want to do the best I can without damaging anything. Also, my plan would be to do the first start without lighting up the glow plugs so that it gives a few revolutions to try and circulate some oil before she fires. Probably totally ineffective-but every little helps! I’ll fill the new filter with oil too. |
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1st Jun 2022 3:34pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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In reality, the new oil will massively dilute any residue of the old oil that doesn't come out. you just don't need to worry about getting out every last drop.
Leave it dripping for a few (5-10) minutes, then just carry on. If you're really worried about getting (and keeping) the oil as clean as possible, then changing the oil (slightly) more frequently will have a much bigger impact than using flushing oil or letting the oil drip out for hours/days. I don't think mucking about with the glow plugs will particularly help, in fact I think you're more likley to be causing yourself problems. I'd leave well alone. Empty oil, change filter, top back up and then just start up normally. All the bearing surfaces will have a sufficient film on them to protect them during the start. hope that helps jon |
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1st Jun 2022 4:07pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74
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Hi Jon. Many thanks, I should have been clearer - I wasn’t intending on disconnecting the glow plugs - just winding the ignition key straight ‘round, rather than waiting the few seconds fir the glow plugs to reach temperature. But I do take your point(s).
I’ll probably put the new oil in soon as it saves hanging around. Thanks. |
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1st Jun 2022 4:14pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2104
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I leave about 30mins to drain as I do an air filter change and have a cup of tea.
If you have a metal canister filter you can pre fill, but hard to do on the paper cartridge one in the plastic housing. Then wipe clean mating surfaces , wipe a little fresh oil on filter mating surface and fit and torque new filter and drain plug. If on a level surface fill with 6.5L of fresh oil (handy to have a funnel as it fits perfectly into the filler). Then screw on filler and check engine dipstick, if ok start engine as normal, run at idle for a few mins, switch of engine, wait 10 mins then check dipstick for levels and top up as required. Test drive and then check there are no leaks. |
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1st Jun 2022 4:14pm |
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| Gal Dove Member Since: 22 Jan 2022 Location: South Wales Posts: 74
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Thanks Ian. That’s very helpful. It’s all very similar to older cars that I’ve had - just good to know that I’m having the right ideas.
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1st Jun 2022 4:17pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2104
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I always keep some fresh cardboard from packaging to place under vehicle when doing an oil change to catch any drips etc. Once I’ve done the oil change and test drive I flip it over to the clean side and leave under vehicle for 30 mins as it will show any drips
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1st Jun 2022 4:24pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3469  
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I read somewhere here that there is a 10mins time between draining the oil and re filling, as I had understood leaving it longer could let air into the oil pump and would be difficult to purge the air and build up the pressure. If it is true or not, I have no idea. It always take me more than 10mins between a drain and a refill. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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1st Jun 2022 6:25pm |
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