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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
I had the joy of going to work early today so managed to finish at a decent time and make a bit of progress on the new doors. First side now all painted, I used Rustoleum as it was a ready source of the commercial white and I'm quite impressed with the finish.

First job was taking the sliding section of glass and the runners out then masking the fixed piece which is on a bed of dum dum so I thought best left in place.


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Then out to the garage with all the bits and away with the spray cans.



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The standard kit doesn't come with door cappings but I'd say they must be pretty essential to close the gap at the top between the skin and the frame



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The Rustoleum is more like a coach enamel than a standard spray paint which came as a surprise with the first pass but it seems to go on nicely.
Post #945456 11th Mar 2022 6:18pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Bit of progress this weekend with the first of the windows the PO put in removed, they go most of the way to the floor and being single glazed are terrible for condensation. It was one of those jobs that you think will be easy and end up taking the whole day. In this case largely because they had been bonded in and the only way I found to get the glass released was to cut the adhesive with a multi tool, which, thanks to the adhesive moving with the blade, took a very long time. In the end we got the first one out though, 8mm glass as well so we'll save a few kg.



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With the glass out we then filled the hole with a piece from the sheet we cut out of the roof, needs a clean but at least it's the right colour, this is bonded and riveted with sealed rivets so will hopefully be watertight.



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After that I got the reverse side of the doors painted and had a quick play at making the replacement wheel arches for the box as the originals are badly corroded under the ply. The sheet metal bender was a (relatively) cheap one off ebay but for bending aluminium sheet it works really well.



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Post #945883 15th Mar 2022 7:12pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
Good progress there, what a difference taking the glass out and putting the metal back in, looks far better than before Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #945988 16th Mar 2022 8:53pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Cheers, cleaning the extra bit of metal will help but I think it's an improvement, looks less like a CIA ice-cream van!
Post #946003 16th Mar 2022 10:42pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7905

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Great progress! Isn't there a tax/classification rule to be classed as a camper it needs at least one side window? Might be worth checking. Thumbs Up James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #946013 17th Mar 2022 5:42am
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Thanks for that, it's an interesting point. I'm not all that keen on changing the V5 to a camper just on an avoiding the faff basis but it did make me wonder if I would need to. Looking at the DVLA website I would need at least two windows in the body plus a raft of other things (including a high roof with elevating roofs being excluded) so I won't fall under it. It is insured as converted to a camper though.
Post #946020 17th Mar 2022 9:46am
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wyvern



Member Since: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2105

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
At the moment it seems that any converted vehicle will find it hard to become a camper and have the V5 changed - the recent dissuasions on many camper groups have found that they can’t get the V5 changed if you have a pop top !
Even the professional conversion companies are not able to have the certs issued - so we have never looked at this for our conversion which keeps the option for returning the seats into the vehicle if needed in the future
Thumbs Up Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #946022 17th Mar 2022 10:33am
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Thanks Wyvern, that matches what a chap at work with a converted Transit was saying, I don't see any need to change the 130's description but it must be an issue for professional firms.
Post #946464 21st Mar 2022 12:43pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Busy weekend, absolute pig of a job in part thanks to the lack of adjustment on the hinges. In addition the new doors are about 5mm higher than the originals which meant they caught on the seal protection strip on the floors. For the time being I've knocked them flat so I could get the doors in but will remove them in due course. The frame behind the seals was cleaned up and new strips of dum dum put over the joints. I also took the opportunity to inject wax into the pillars, overall the bulkhead is good but I will need to repair the top corners at some point in the not too distant future.



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What I don't understand is why the top rear corners of both doors only just fit, while the doors are higher than the originals they are square so the gap should be even. As I'm at the end of the adjustment on the hinges (at least in terms of getting the doors in the holes) I'm wondering if this can be rectified through new seals on the truck cab roof and back. Probably something that will wait until the roof comes off to do the bulkhead.

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I ordered Bearmach seals but was supplied one Bearmach and one All makes, the latter had a round piece of foam reinforcing in it where the body curves out which required an awful lot of force to compress so I've removed it. The Bearmach seal is definitely better which backs up what I'd read both here and elsewhere.

Overall I'm pleased with it as a mod, there's a surprising amount of extra room compared to the one piece doors which is welcome.
Post #946467 21st Mar 2022 12:56pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
The doors do look good on but it's strange the problem that your having them shut properly Rolling Eyes
Hopefully as you say that it might sort it's self out one the roof comes off Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #946534 21st Mar 2022 10:14pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Aye, it's an odd one. They close nicely at present (albeit with a slam for the new seals) so I'm not losing any sleep over it. In the photo it looks like the passenger side is proud of the rear panel but it's clear by a mm or two so does the job. I suspect that part of it is down to the hand built nature of the vehicle and part to aftermarket parts.
Post #946687 22nd Mar 2022 11:14pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
It's been a different run for the last couple of weeks thanks to getting ready for the Mot. Most of the suspension bushes were looking very tired so I've replaced the lot with SuperPro bushes, also the rear springs were Britpart yellow HD ones (an additional 110Ib per inch which seems unnecessary) with the helpers so I ended up replacing the springs and shocks including galvanised spring turrets and seats etc. Plus a fair amount of Bilt Hamber wax inside and outside the chassis.


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Certainly drives better for it other than looking tidier.

I booked the MoT a week and a half ago and said to the chap in the garage that he is plated for 3 1/2 tonnes so could the place they use do it. No problem he said. Dropped it off on Monday and wandered around at 5 to be told that he thought I was exaggerating about the weight and they hadn't got an MoT because I need a Class 7. I was pretty annoyed given that I had specifically asked, he told me a Class 7 at another garage they use would probably take about a week for a slot which is beyond when the current one expires. I've got a slot booked at Halfords tomorrow morning so fingers crossed I'll be roadworthy for another year.
Post #949306 13th Apr 2022 7:57pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
He passed! Failed first off on not having a rubber on the brake pedal, drove over to the local Land Rover specialist and 20 minutes and £1.06 lighter I was back at the centre and had a new test certificate. Nice when all the hard work underneath pays off, the tester said to me that when he saw the booking he thought he was in for a long run so was relieved when he looked underneath. He also said he thought it was a replacement chassis until he saw the chassis number and manufacture date stamped into the chassis. I don't know if the 127 chassis was better made or if the electricity board went to extra lengths when they got them but there's pretty much no corrosion on it.

First test of the pop top on Saturday now.
Post #949348 14th Apr 2022 12:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What reason did he give for making you have a Class 7 MoT test? He's most probably wrong.
Post #949361 14th Apr 2022 2:28pm
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Ratty43



Member Since: 01 Sep 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
According to the ministry plate the unladen weight is 2,340kg and gross weight is 3,400kg which I think puts it outside the dual purpose category that a lot of 110s fall under. To be honest, bar the hassle of finding a test centre it doesn't seem to be much different as a test. I took it to Penzance Halfords who were really good.
Post #949362 14th Apr 2022 2:31pm
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