![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > CTEK custom connector - through 12v socket or extension? |
![]() ![]() |
|
|
Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 ![]() |
I'm finding I'm having to use my CTEK MX5 charger quite a lot, given I'm working from home now and lifting the hatch under the seat al the time is really knocking lumps out of my rubber seatbox mats.
So, I'm going to invest in a little mod to put a CTEK connector in a more convenient place. I only have 8 pin towing electrics, so one of Martin's adaptors - though lovely - are out. That leaves either a connection directly to the battery with the M8 eyelets - like this: https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/ctek-56-382-comfort-connect-led-m8 - I'd assume this means finding a hole or unused grommet for the wire to come up under the seat - but I suppose if there was a way of having this new connector out of the battery box and under the vehicle would actually be better as it'd mean that I wouldn't need to jam an extension lead in the door like I do currently. ...or using an adaptor to charge through the cigar lighter socket - like this: https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/ctek-56-870...igar-plug, but I'd still have to jam the extension in the door and am not sure if the 12v socket in a Puma is powered with the key off. Though I think this was the approach taken with the genuine LR battery chargers. Any other good ideas? My ideal would be a nice waterproof connection outside the vehicle that could be routed through existing grommets (no drilling) and if I'm making a wishlist then a magnetic connector in case I drive off would be even better. |
||
![]() |
|
DuncanS Member Since: 07 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Just do the 13pin mod for your towing electrics and backcharge your battery from there. All Pumas have the permanent live connector on the towing harness loom from factory, so a bit of soldering and joining with a prewired 13 pin connector will give you plenty of flexibility. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
|
||
![]() |
|
Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 723 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Very similar to the description Blackwolf provided, here's mine. The extension cord and charger rest on the passenger seat to avoid the normal footwell puddles, the cable trails to outside under the door bottom seal and the C-tek connector sits besides the seat runner.
Subsequently I've added a 120w solar panel which is bolted to the roof rack and permanently connected but the C-tek is still useful, especially when parked up at camp sites for multiple days with the fridge running and other devices charging from the vehicle electrics. ![]() Click image to enlarge [/code] 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop 1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top 1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles |
||
![]() |
|
Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 675 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I fitted one of the ctek panel sockets in the front of the seat box next to the clasp, under the matting flap.
If you got the one with the longer cables you could probably mount on the dash instead. CTEK 56-531 6899 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Q41U5XG/ref...KPK3J7B17Z |
||
![]() |
|
rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Not too familiar with the underbonnet electrical systems on a TDCi but is there not a main power distribution point somewhere under the bonnet if you dont want to drill any holes or trap a cable in the door? Would be fairly easy to run a CTEK connector out to the radiator grille or just somewhere convenient under the bonnet. Could always wire to the alternator terminal.
I have this type of arrangement on one of my other cars so I can plug in the CTEK and just fit the MXS10 under the bonnet and close it enough to arm the alarm but also feed the extension lead cable out. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
||
![]() |
|
seriesonenut Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 1242 ![]() ![]() |
I have shared before but I have used a charging point and fitted to the outside. No more wires through doors. Also has indicator lights so you can keep an eye on the charge state.
![]() Click image to enlarge12v3 by Richard Holmes, on Flickr 1984 One-Ten CSW 2010 XS USW (sold) 1957 Series One 88 diesel 1958 Series One 88 4x2 |
||
![]() |
|
I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 842 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
CAUTION!!!
Just reading the above about going directly to battery with 8mm eyelets, or picking up a live contact at the alternator. If you do this please make sure you fit a fuse inline and as close to the live positive connection as you can. You don't want your car to go up in smoke if the charger connection wiring chafes or gets trapped and potentially creates a direct, unfused short circuit. |
||
![]() |
|
seriesonenut Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 1242 ![]() ![]() |
totally agree, mine is fused inside the battery box
![]() 2010 XS USW (sold) 1957 Series One 88 diesel 1958 Series One 88 4x2 |
||
![]() |
|
Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2187 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I don’t have the ubiquitous CTEK - just an old and trusted Accumate.
Not as ingenious as some of the above offerings, but equally as perfunctory ![]() No holes needed to be drilled, and definitely fused. Thought I might suffer with ‘crud’ attaching itself but it’s been fine for years. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge |
||
![]() |
|
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17731 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
IIRC the CTEK lead has an inline fuse.
|
||
![]() |
|
LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3665 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
exactly how I have done mine, when its in the garage the passenger door lines up with a wall socket so happy days. I did drive out one day with it plugged in and the 13amp plug auto disconnected!! DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
||
![]() |
|
I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 842 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That isn't the risk. The danger is that if you run a lead permanently connected to battery or alternator with a conveniently situated plug for connecting the charger. If the permanently connected lead gets damaged it has the potential to create an unfused direct short across the battery. A fuse fitted in the positive side at the battery connection protects against this burning your car to a smouldering wreck. The fuse should be rated a small amount above the chargers max output (I would use a 15A fuse for a 10A charger, etc). |
||
![]() |
|
JPE Member Since: 19 Nov 2018 Location: South West England Posts: 341 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That’s important advice, particularly as the cable that comes in the box for connecting permanently to the battery terminals is not fused! I bought another CTEK connector because I wanted a fused one (at the positive terminal). Seems a bit of a sales ploy to sell more, but it’s dangerous to be connecting cables to a car battery without the precaution of a fuse.
|
||
![]() |
|
blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17731 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Which is, I imagine, the main reason that the CTEK lead has an inline fuse immediately adjacent to the ring terminal for connecting to the battery. ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
![]() ![]() |
|
All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
