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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

CTEK custom connector - through 12v socket or extension?
I'm finding I'm having to use my CTEK MX5 charger quite a lot, given I'm working from home now and lifting the hatch under the seat al the time is really knocking lumps out of my rubber seatbox mats.

So, I'm going to invest in a little mod to put a CTEK connector in a more convenient place.

I only have 8 pin towing electrics, so one of Martin's adaptors - though lovely - are out.

That leaves either a connection directly to the battery with the M8 eyelets - like this: https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/ctek-56-382-comfort-connect-led-m8 - I'd assume this means finding a hole or unused grommet for the wire to come up under the seat - but I suppose if there was a way of having this new connector out of the battery box and under the vehicle would actually be better as it'd mean that I wouldn't need to jam an extension lead in the door like I do currently.

...or using an adaptor to charge through the cigar lighter socket - like this: https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/ctek-56-870...igar-plug, but I'd still have to jam the extension in the door and am not sure if the 12v socket in a Puma is powered with the key off. Though I think this was the approach taken with the genuine LR battery chargers.

Any other good ideas? My ideal would be a nice waterproof connection outside the vehicle that could be routed through existing grommets (no drilling) and if I'm making a wishlist then a magnetic connector in case I drive off would be even better.
Post #947997 4th Apr 2022 2:56pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17731

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The "cigar lighter" socket is not permanently live on a Puma, so is not directly suitable.

On my 2007 Puma there is an unused hole in the top surface of the seat box between the seat locker lid and the door (which may be used for heated seat wiring if you have heated seats, I don't so don't know for sure) and I simply passed the CTEK lead through the hole (after fitting a grommet) to connect it to the battery. The lead then just passes under the seat base to the centre cubby area where the charger lives. If I don't have the charger connected it provides a useful permanent 12V connection for other stuff.

When the charger is connected (which his most of the time now) I carefully shut the extension lead in the door, which due to the outstanding fit of Defender doors doesn't seem to cause any problems. The charger sits on the transmission tunnel, and the 13A 240V socket rests on the dash shelf to keep it out of the puddle that forms on the passenger floor (it is a Defender after all).

Using a CTEK throughout lockdown has "saved" the battery so far, it is the original battery fitted by the factory in 2007, and has now done nearly 260k miles - a lot of starting - and is 15 years old. Writing this will have jinxed it of course, so a new battery will probably not be far away! Rolling with laughter
Post #948003 4th Apr 2022 3:17pm
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DuncanS



Member Since: 07 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 299

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Just do the 13pin mod for your towing electrics and backcharge your battery from there. All Pumas have the permanent live connector on the towing harness loom from factory, so a bit of soldering and joining with a prewired 13 pin connector will give you plenty of flexibility. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
Post #948004 4th Apr 2022 3:37pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 723

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Very similar to the description Blackwolf provided, here's mine. The extension cord and charger rest on the passenger seat to avoid the normal footwell puddles, the cable trails to outside under the door bottom seal and the C-tek connector sits besides the seat runner.

Subsequently I've added a 120w solar panel which is bolted to the roof rack and permanently connected but the C-tek is still useful, especially when parked up at camp sites for multiple days with the fridge running and other devices charging from the vehicle electrics.


Click image to enlarge

[/code] 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles
Post #948005 4th Apr 2022 3:37pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 675

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
I fitted one of the ctek panel sockets in the front of the seat box next to the clasp, under the matting flap.

If you got the one with the longer cables you could probably mount on the dash instead.

CTEK 56-531 6899 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00Q41U5XG/ref...KPK3J7B17Z
Post #948009 4th Apr 2022 3:55pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2238

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Not too familiar with the underbonnet electrical systems on a TDCi but is there not a main power distribution point somewhere under the bonnet if you dont want to drill any holes or trap a cable in the door? Would be fairly easy to run a CTEK connector out to the radiator grille or just somewhere convenient under the bonnet. Could always wire to the alternator terminal.

I have this type of arrangement on one of my other cars so I can plug in the CTEK and just fit the MXS10 under the bonnet and close it enough to arm the alarm but also feed the extension lead cable out.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #948013 4th Apr 2022 4:47pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1242

United Kingdom 
I have shared before but I have used a charging point and fitted to the outside. No more wires through doors. Also has indicator lights so you can keep an eye on the charge state.


Click image to enlarge
12v3 by Richard Holmes, on Flickr 1984 One-Ten CSW
2010 XS USW (sold)
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #948025 4th Apr 2022 5:56pm
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 842

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
CAUTION!!!

Just reading the above about going directly to battery with 8mm eyelets, or picking up a live contact at the alternator.

If you do this please make sure you fit a fuse inline and as close to the live positive connection as you can. You don't want your car to go up in smoke if the charger connection wiring chafes or gets trapped and potentially creates a direct, unfused short circuit.
Post #948026 4th Apr 2022 5:58pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1242

United Kingdom 
totally agree, mine is fused inside the battery box Thumbs Up 1984 One-Ten CSW
2010 XS USW (sold)
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #948028 4th Apr 2022 6:02pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2187

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I don’t have the ubiquitous CTEK - just an old and trusted Accumate.

Not as ingenious as some of the above offerings, but equally as perfunctory Thumbs Up

No holes needed to be drilled, and definitely fused.

Thought I might suffer with ‘crud’ attaching itself but it’s been fine for years.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #948032 4th Apr 2022 6:46pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17731

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
IIRC the CTEK lead has an inline fuse.
Post #948034 4th Apr 2022 6:55pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Harry.O wrote:
Very similar to the description Blackwolf provided, here's mine. The extension cord and charger rest on the passenger seat to avoid the normal footwell puddles, the cable trails to outside under the door bottom seal and the C-tek connector sits besides the seat runner.

Subsequently I've added a 120w solar panel which is bolted to the roof rack and permanently connected but the C-tek is still useful, especially when parked up at camp sites for multiple days with the fridge running and other devices charging from the vehicle electrics.


Click image to enlarge

[/code]


exactly how I have done mine, when its in the garage the passenger door lines up with a wall socket so happy days.

I did drive out one day with it plugged in and the 13amp plug auto disconnected!! DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #948038 4th Apr 2022 7:14pm
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 842

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
blackwolf wrote:
IIRC the CTEK lead has an inline fuse.


That isn't the risk.

The danger is that if you run a lead permanently connected to battery or alternator with a conveniently situated plug for connecting the charger. If the permanently connected lead gets damaged it has the potential to create an unfused direct short across the battery.

A fuse fitted in the positive side at the battery connection protects against this burning your car to a smouldering wreck. The fuse should be rated a small amount above the chargers max output (I would use a 15A fuse for a 10A charger, etc).
Post #948079 4th Apr 2022 10:11pm
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JPE



Member Since: 19 Nov 2018
Location: South West England
Posts: 341

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
That’s important advice, particularly as the cable that comes in the box for connecting permanently to the battery terminals is not fused! I bought another CTEK connector because I wanted a fused one (at the positive terminal). Seems a bit of a sales ploy to sell more, but it’s dangerous to be connecting cables to a car battery without the precaution of a fuse.
Post #948083 4th Apr 2022 10:26pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17731

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I Like Old Skool wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
IIRC the CTEK lead has an inline fuse.


That isn't the risk.

The danger is that if you run a lead permanently connected to battery or alternator with a conveniently situated plug for connecting the charger. If the permanently connected lead gets damaged it has the potential to create an unfused direct short across the battery.

A fuse fitted in the positive side at the battery connection protects against this burning your car to a smouldering wreck. The fuse should be rated a small amount above the chargers max output (I would use a 15A fuse for a 10A charger, etc).


Which is, I imagine, the main reason that the CTEK lead has an inline fuse immediately adjacent to the ring terminal for connecting to the battery. Thumbs Up
Post #948095 5th Apr 2022 12:23am
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