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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

can you ID these odd parts?
After having my chassis galvanised (so the body had been lifted off), I've just noticed these two little parts tucked neatly into the cupholder - I suspect the garage has left them off.

Any idea what they could be?

My first thought were buttons for seatbox tabs like on an old series 3... of buttons to hold on the handbrake gaitor, but I'm completely stumped.


Click image to enlarge
Post #946857 24th Mar 2022 10:32am
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 745

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Thaey look a bit like the ball end that a gas strut might attach to
Post #946859 24th Mar 2022 10:47am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Usually fit next to the rear folding seat lower seat belt anchorage on the wheel boxes. Its there to stop the seat belt turning too far and also screws into the seatbelt to chassis bracket under the body.
Post #946860 24th Mar 2022 11:23am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 838

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
I’m curious to whether you mean a new galv chassis or had your original chassis galvanised? 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #946861 24th Mar 2022 11:24am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4217

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Linds Hanson wrote:
Usually fit next to the rear folding seat lower seat belt anchorage on the wheel boxes. Its there to stop the seat belt turning too far and also screws into the seatbelt to chassis bracket under the body.


I agree, this is what they are. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #946862 24th Mar 2022 11:24am
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Bluest/Linds - thank you very much. Could I be really cheeky and ask if either if you could post a pic so I know where to refit them?

Brickbox - I had mine galvanised. Had it acid dipped by one company, galvanised by a second, resprayed and refitted.
Post #946863 24th Mar 2022 11:34am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 838

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
That’s brilliant to hear that you’ve managed to have the original galvanised - it seems a bit of a touchy area.

Would you mind giving a ball park cost of having your own chassis galvanised, please? Something I’d look into over changing it completely. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #946869 24th Mar 2022 11:52am
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

its not touchy, its pretty straightforward providing the chassis is in good condition. There are plenty of people on forums that say its tricky, but they're usually the people who have never done it themselves and repeat pub-knowledge they've heard about galvanising. I've had quite a lot of galvanising, blasting and dipping done on past restorations and its not that complex. In this case, I didn't have the workshop space available, so I outsourced it.

The reality is that unless your chassis is near-perfect then its probably not worth doing - if you're having to do repairs, then there'll likely be other thin spots and mig-welded repairs do tend to introduce stresses that can cause odd behaviour when dipped.

However if its still in good condition then it'll fly through. There's plenty of natural vents in the chassis, so mine didn't need to be drilled or anything either, which is nice.

Excluding removal/refitting the costs aren't very high:

Acid dipping (Ribble Technologies) - about £350 along with a few other bits
Galvanising (Wedge group) - another couple of hundred quid
Fettling the zinc/tapping threads - another day or so's work
Respray by a bodyshop in 2K black - say another £400

One thing to bear in mind is that if you're paying to have it done, then the labour costs will be substantially higher than a simple chassis swap as its more of a hassle, takes much longer and takes up much more space in the workshop (including tying up a ramp with the body airborne while the chassis is away).

Example 1: Galv and paint your own chassis = from above is approx £1250
Example 2: Buy and paint a Galv chassis = £2150 + £400 = £2550. LESS the resale value of a Puma chassis in good nick (approx £1200) = approx £1350

So financially, it doesn't really make much sense unless you desparately want to keep the factory chassis, like I did. For me, I wanted to keep my 90 nice and original and the chassis was spot on so it was worth it. But if I had bought a brand new chassis and sold off the old one (with the ID removed) then it would probably cost the same and would be a lot less hassle.
Post #946873 24th Mar 2022 1:12pm
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piechipsandpeas



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 215

Australia 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Hi Gasket
The photo below shows where they go, as Linds Hanson described.


Click image to enlarge


Andy
Post #946875 24th Mar 2022 1:27pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

wonderful, thank you! Just had a look and my 90 has a shiny pair of grade 8.8 hex bolts where the balls should be - guess the garage misplaced them and just used normal bolts instead.
Post #946876 24th Mar 2022 2:17pm
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 838

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Thank you for the lengthy reply! Much appreciated!

It’s always good to hear opinions from those that have undertaken the task. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #946877 24th Mar 2022 2:31pm
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