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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Recommendation for checkerplate removal tig-ing up the holes
My 90 has factory fitted, genuine parts checkerplate on the sills, rear arch and wing tops. I've never been a fan and have long been toying with removing it.

My plan had been to remove them, have the holes tigged-up and then have a SMART repair company touch in and blend the paintwork over any bare areas or scuffs underneath. Not a cheap process, but something I'd be happy to pay for.

But my aluminium welding isn't up to scratch and the chaps who I know that do do AC TIG welding on LR bodywork are very nervous about taking it on due to the risk of stretching or warping.

So, has anyone successfully had this done and could they recommend a workshop to do the welding work?

I fully appreciate that bonding on a small piece behind the hole and using filler for the hole is by far a more sensible approach, but its not something I'm comfortable with on tis vehicle and would want to stick with TIG.
Post #945936 16th Mar 2022 10:50am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Whilst it won't help with the wings or rear quarters, I'd suggest that it would be easier and cheaper to replace the sills completely. You may even find somebody that would swap with you. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #945941 16th Mar 2022 11:33am
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

That was my first though too - unfortunately its not a common colour (Rimini Red) and I've not been able to find any salvage vehicles in the same shade, there was one in Northern Ireland, but it has long since been stripped. Very open to it if I could find a swap.
Post #945944 16th Mar 2022 12:27pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3671

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
I would argue that by the time you’ve tigged the holes on the sills and properly touched in the paintwork, it would be cheaper to buy new sills and have the whole sill painted. Similar for the wingtips as they are simple enough to fit. Rear arches/wings might be more of a faff.
Post #945948 16th Mar 2022 1:57pm
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Dowks



Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 121

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Keswick Green
I have just removed a lot of checker on my Ninety, the bodyshop is going to weld the holes prior to repainting, costs a bit more in the prep but hopefully long term a better solution.

Not sure much help though as they are in Surrey.....
Post #945949 16th Mar 2022 2:06pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
I guess it depends on how perfectly factory you wish it to be when complete. There is an argument for using some of the LR pop rivets then painting those to match the bodywork, like LR did. I doubt if done well anyone would notice them.

Obviously it utterly depends on how much chequer plate was slathered over your vehicle to begin with but it wouldn't look terribly out of place once painted. Might even be a cheaper fix not having to rig weld every hole, flatten it, etc. then paint it.

The other option (dare I say it) is to leave the chequer where it is and colour match it to the rest of the bodywork. It can look quite good when not contrasting in silver or black.
Post #945959 16th Mar 2022 2:52pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

geobloke wrote:
I guess it depends on how perfectly factory you wish it to be when complete


Therein lies the problem - I'm a bit of an anorak for factory finishes.

The kit is STC50245, so consists of the wing tops, the sill covers and the little pieces that wrap around the rear quarters. The little pads on the tops of the bumper were never fitted.

Just looking at some of the posts above:

I could actually live with the wing tops - I don't care for the look, but they are practical.

I could certainly replace the sills - either salvage in the correct colour or a new set sprayed... or even a set of refurbished Mantec steel sills if I can find them (just stuck a wanted ad up on the off chance): I have already have a Mantec steering and tank guards in the garage along with a load of other Mantec kit so they would set off the 2009 G4 look if I fitted it all.

On the rear pieces of checkerplate, 4 of the 6 holes on each side are actually in the steel cappings, which I could easily replace (or simply MIG up). But 2 holes, on each side go straight through the rear wings just behind the rear arch spats.

Its the rear pieces that I cause me the most issue - I'm just not a fan and to replace them requires TIG and touch up of the paint... and if I'm doing those bits, I'm tempted to say that I might as well do the lot.
Post #945966 16th Mar 2022 5:04pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
I put some stainless buttonhead hex bolts into the holes on mine. Looks great.
Post #946014 17th Mar 2022 7:39am
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 808

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
I've got quite a few holes in my rear end!

From lamp guards and door hinges etc (has been converted from hard top to tailgate). When I bought the vehicle in 2014 I bought some small coach bolts with the intention of painting them body colour and using them to fill in the holes discreetly.






I still have many unfilled holes in my rear end...... Rolling Eyes
Post #946017 17th Mar 2022 8:13am
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L90Andy



Member Since: 29 May 2014
Location: Stratford-Upon-Avon
Posts: 717

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
I had a similar issue; my V8 had wing top, sill and rear quarter chequer plates which I didn't want.
I replaced the sills with 2nd hand replacements to save any hassle, and for the wings and rear quarters I bonded small squares of old sill cut-offs behind with JB Weld, then smoothed the holes over with a wet finger, sanded when dried and then painted. Cost nothing and honestly wouldn't know they were there, although I was repainting the whole car anyway. Instagram: l90andy

2006 Land Rover 90 TD5 CSW Silver Edition

My 1984 Ninety: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56071.html - SOLD!
My 2015 Defender: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39625.html - SOLD!
Post #946019 17th Mar 2022 9:43am
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: Essex
Posts: 2945

United Kingdom 
mikeh501 wrote:
I put some stainless buttonhead hex bolts into the holes on mine. Looks great.

Photos please
Post #946032 17th Mar 2022 11:39am
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I Like Old Skool



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 808

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi ST Coniston Green
I Like Old Skool wrote:
I've got quite a few holes in my rear end!

From lamp guards and door hinges etc (has been converted from hard top to tailgate). When I bought the vehicle in 2014 I bought some small coach bolts with the intention of painting them body colour and using them to fill in the holes discreetly.






I still have many unfilled holes in my rear end...... Rolling Eyes


Spurred into instant action by this post I finally got around to painting my buttons. Just need to fit them now.


Click image to enlarge


First dipped them in Mordant solution to etch the zinc coating then hand painted with etching primer, undercoat and finally Landrover Green.
Post #947669 1st Apr 2022 6:28am
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 619

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
I have tigged up lots of holes in defenders. Chequerplate, corrosion and roof aerial holes.

For the cost I replace sills and wing tops with new panels, however roofs and tubs I weld up.

Last job I did was tub corrosion on a Puma - outer wing skins in usual places by the steel tub / sill brace but cannot find the photos at present, however after localised respray is invisible.

Below is Td5 tub chequerplate hole removal.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #947847 3rd Apr 2022 6:16am
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
ibexman wrote:
mikeh501 wrote:
I put some stainless buttonhead hex bolts into the holes on mine. Looks great.

Photos please


Here you go. Matches the aesthetic on mine at least.


Click image to enlarge
Post #947853 3rd Apr 2022 8:34am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3671

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Landy looks nice Mike, let’s see a wider angled shot!
Post #947854 3rd Apr 2022 8:47am
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