 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Raptor over powder coat |
 
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| Mother superior Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 504  
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Wise ones,
My old Brownchurch roof rack is looking a bit glum, so I thought I’d hit her up with a little Raptor bed liner. Thing is do I need to strip all the existing powder coat off? The undamaged bits are in really good nick. I went on the website and they say it will stick to powder coat as long as you rough it up some. What’s everyone’s opinion? Wes Oh woe, oh woe My crusty old landrover, It will not go. |
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1st Mar 2022 4:49pm |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 883
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Raptor is good but only as good as what is underneath. I think powdercoat is the devils creation and in this application your efforts could be undermined if moisture does end up underneath it and it flakes off as it has a habit of doing.
As much as it is a pain in the bum I would strip or blast the old stuff off first if you want it to last. If you want to do a quick freshen up then 30 quid on some raptor is a good shout to pile on top. But be prepared for it not to last as well. |
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1st Mar 2022 6:54pm |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289 
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I used to formulate polymer powdercoatings, and evaluate the competitors: they range from  to epic. As Bodstruck suggested, a comination of the powercoat and preperation for the coating combine - there are other factors, but those 2 are significant.
The problem is any corosion/moisture/contamination traped between the metal/power/raptor interfaces may lead to a total coating failure. Minimal is a shotblast and raptor, as suggested For optimal precoat using https://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/classi...ng-system/ an electrophoretic coating prior to raptor. This would give a coating significantley better than just powder over metal. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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1st Mar 2022 7:23pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 969  
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Obviously a full strip would be best if it’s in poor condition and you can afford that extent but Mother Superior has said in his message that the remaining powder coating is in good condition.
At the end of the day it depends what finish you require. Raptor can be applied to a solid base with a good key and hide all sorts of imperfections. But it does need to be a good base or you are just wasting money and time. Ride like you stole it!! If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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1st Mar 2022 8:03pm |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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The issue with overcoating is micro pinholes, and micro bubbles in the base powdercoat, that formed when the coating was applied. And the lifted edges where the powdercoating has failed already They either hold or trap tiny amounts of moisture, that could lead to a corrosion point source. (ASTM salt spay testing would always show these defects with 24 hours.)
Any overcoating would require preperation and careful coating not to trap any moisture, either from atmosphere, spray equipment and compressed air (assuming spray application). Mother Superior, would have to inspect the coating very carefully or do the overcoating with a dry warm environment (summer day, spray booth, garage with heater) to reduce the risk of under coating corrosion. This was one of the most common issues that customers came back with, reparing or recoating the current base powdercoat. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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1st Mar 2022 8:40pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2142 
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Totally depends on the quality of the powdercoat.
On my 110, all done 5 years ago. Devon 4x4 front bumper - over coated with FXLiner - still looks very good and its had a very, very hard life. Driven daily and hit many things. Looks good cant see the need to redo for a good few years Dixon fab rock sliders - same process. Very hard life and have had direct heavy contact with rocks and trees still look decent but need to be redone. Terrafirma NAS step - same procress. Hit a few things, nothing major, needs to be completely sand blasted and redone. I can add pics tomorrow if interested. If youre unsure of the powdercoat then strip it bare and redo it. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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1st Mar 2022 8:58pm |
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| Mother superior Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 504
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Thanks for the replies gents, Where the powder coat is good (about 75%) its very good indeed in fact it's chisel resistant and the few test areas that I have stripped have no corrosion underneath. Maybe I'll hit it up with one of those aggressive wire cup wheels and see what I find.
Thanks Wes Oh woe, oh woe My crusty old landrover, It will not go. |
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2nd Mar 2022 8:36am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3359
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I would argue all of this needs to be weighed up against the costs and time involved.
There was a good condition galvanised brownchurch rack for sale on here last week for just over £100 
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82191...rownchurch  |
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2nd Mar 2022 8:47am |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 659 
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Scotchbrite all surfaces, clean and then etch prime. That will be good enough base for raptor. If you want a smooth finish use a 1.4 tip, light texture finish use 2.0 or Schultz gun for the full textured finish. |
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2nd Mar 2022 12:48pm |
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