 | Home > Technical > Hinge Bolts starting to rust..replacements? |
 
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 620   
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Britpart DA1132P (90), DA1133P (110) and DA1134P (rear door) are exact replicas of the original bolts in stainless and excellent.
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30th Mar 2021 2:30am |
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| Fabio Member Since: 05 Aug 2011 Location: Somerset Posts: 589  
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I bought stainless steel from ebay, but now it is the hinges that are rusting.
So I've started painting them. Fabio |
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30th Mar 2021 4:58am |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 970  
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Great selection of stainless replacements on e-bay and many are tamper resistant torx bolts Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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30th Mar 2021 6:25am |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47  
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I have changed them all for the stainless Britpart. but does anyone know what the correct tightening torque is?
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10th Feb 2022 5:49pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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or just use some ACF50 every 6 months or so and they will not corrode and nor will the hinges and pins
infact follow the corrosion guide and protect the whole car if fitting stainless consider security heads at the same time so your doors are harder to nick https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467...sion+guide DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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10th Feb 2022 8:56pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17371 
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I feel compelled to say "who cares"? A less critical fastener would be hard to find, they're just M8 bolts, it doesn't matter. It doesn't even matter if they are even or not. Even if you had torque figures they'd be for the normal HT BZP bolts assembled dry, not weaker stainless ones assembled with anti-seize compound. |
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10th Feb 2022 10:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20342
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I have Nakatanenga ones, corrosion block paste is essential on threads. I would also look at YRM’s offerings now available.
When I did mine, I just tightened them up enough, torque setting isn’t essential for these. So long as they aren’t so loose that the door hinge moves around or so tight that they won’t come undone or you  up the threads you’ll be fine.
Replace one bolt at a time too with the doors shut, don’t take them all out or the door may just fall out at worst, or at best the alignment may be put out. Welcome to the fine art of door hinge bolt replacement.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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10th Feb 2022 11:00pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17371
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Just in case I appeared to be harsh on the torque-wrench junkies, here are some figures abstracted from https://www.trfastenings.com/products/know...ic-threads (Google is your friend)!
 Click image to enlarge The coefficient of friction column reflects the fact that stainless fasteners are not installed dry, and the main difficulty will be establishing the CF for whatever anti-seize you are using. The most important column is probably the min breaking torque, since exceeding this is asking for trouble. Don't forget to use the column appropriate to the material spec of the fastener you are using, i.e., A2 or A4 stainless (it is unlikely to be A1, the use of which would be inadvisable). The simplest advice remains to leave the torque-wrench in the toolbox and use common sense instead!  |
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11th Feb 2022 9:41am |
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| Vitesse Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 381 
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I had my 2015 Puma from new and simply use acf50 regularly and all the bolts and hinges are perfect still. If I replaced due to rust I would use standard LR parts personally. 2015 90 XS Santorini Black
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11th Feb 2022 12:54pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 237  
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YRM metals do the bolts, that what I have fitted and good to deal with
Much cheaper than Nakatanenga |
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11th Feb 2022 4:06pm |
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