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johnnyha



Member Since: 08 May 2019
Location: London
Posts: 40

1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
V8 Cooling advice
Hi all

I recently acquired a 90 w/ 3.9ltr V8, megasquirt managed, w/ LPG conversion.

I've noticed that it runs reasonably warm (just under the red zone), based on the coolant temp. The radiatorh as two electronically operated fans, but is pretty old by the look of it. There is also a smaller radiator for cooling the transmission oil. with this in mind I would appreciate thoughts on the following options

1. Something generic like - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-radiat...XxswkE-K_Y

2. https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance...o-fan-pack with or without Oil cooler

I have additionally been recommended a move to the Sniper EFI system. Not having the will to get into programming the MS, this is an attractive option as a 'learning' system with VDU. Any thoughts/advice appreciated.
Post #917964 20th Aug 2021 11:54am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10382

United Kingdom 
My 4.6 has a new genuine v8 radiator/oil cooler from the 50th and the Revotec twin fan assembly. I can sit in traffic jams in 30 degree heat during a 120mile journey and not worry.
I run GEMS, so can’t comment on your Sniper choice..
Post #917971 20th Aug 2021 12:30pm
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jonny



Member Since: 10 Mar 2013
Location: North Wilts
Posts: 149

Does the temp vary in different conditions, or is it the same at all times? It may be that the gauge is incorrect if it's the same at all times.

Mine sits at about 85C driving along, it will climb to 90C stationary then the fans kick in (I have the revotec fans too) and it will hover around that. If you need a new rad, best value is something like a V8 copper cored rad or the 2.5D one as these are the biggest fitted to any landy - eg.

https://www.bearmach.com/product/radiators.../BR%203249

I wouldn't change the megasquirt if it's working OK - MS is tried and tested and well supported on V8s - if it's been well tuned with a wideband lambda then there would be no benefit anyway - MS can do closed loop fuelling to compensate for any minor changes too. The advantage of the Holley system is that you don't need a laptop when you are doing the initial setup. You will still need to 'learn' how to use it - especially for setting up cold start / hot starts etc, but there's going to be less people who can help if you run into any issues.
Post #917994 20th Aug 2021 1:42pm
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johnnyha



Member Since: 08 May 2019
Location: London
Posts: 40

1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Helpful advice folks thanks
Post #918004 20th Aug 2021 2:35pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
I think I’d check your temps as it could well be the sender or gauge. I check mine with a IR thermometer.

My 90 is a 4.6 stage 3 running Megasquirt and has the allies port water ans oil cooler. I can tell you it radiates lots of heat but the engine temps are pretty solid at around 86 running around and rarely up to 93when second fan kicks in. Mine is also running cats.

Also if your Efi works I wouldn’t change it for the sake of it. Whatever you do will be expensive.

All the above is good advice.
Post #918028 20th Aug 2021 4:21pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 916

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
When I had my 4.2 auto Ninety I was able to bimble about off road or sit in traffic and the temp gauge wouldn't move from about 1/2 way mark, I got a local radiator place to make a 4 core rad to the Turbo diesel dimensions and include the oil cooler. I then bunked an small mocal cooler up front for the autobox.

Used the standard cowling and viscose fan, never had a problem.


Click image to enlarge
 Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #918036 20th Aug 2021 4:59pm
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100inch



Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: Brunswick
Posts: 411

Australia 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Santorini Black
Worth parking uphill and open the radiator cap to see if all air has escaped. Unfortunately the heater, being higher acts as an airtrap. m
Post #918144 21st Aug 2021 7:52pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8030

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
First thing I wold do is physically check engine temp compared to gauge calibration Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #918165 22nd Aug 2021 6:29am
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Inigo



Member Since: 13 Nov 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 617

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I've got the allisport radiator with twin electric fans in my 4.6. Never overheats, even when driving at high revs at low speed in sand in the heat. Does need the fans though, when it was initially fitted it had a dodgy earth and sometimes the fans wouldn't come on.
Post #918170 22nd Aug 2021 8:51am
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

United Kingdom 
A friend of mine has fitted an electric water pump and says it has completely stopped the overheating he was experiencing. The theory is that at slow speeds the standard one doesn't operate fast enough. Ask Mr Google how much.
Post #918328 23rd Aug 2021 2:20pm
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johnnyha



Member Since: 08 May 2019
Location: London
Posts: 40

1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
mikeh501 wrote:
I think I’d check your temps as it could well be the sender or gauge. I check mine with a IR thermometer.


This was the root of the issue. Nothing to worry about and the megasquirt stays.
Post #933531 14th Dec 2021 11:52am
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lordpecan



Member Since: 06 Feb 2022
Location: London
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 1987 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Alpine White
I had heating issues with my 90 3.5 1987

Turned out it was the thermostat and good system flush sorted the problem.
Post #941258 6th Feb 2022 2:51pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
The old 90 and 110 I built some years back (with the same 3.9 EFI ex rangie engine), I used a TurboD radiator (not Tdi), as it's full width and had an in built oil cooler pipe (which is just a pipe connecting top & bottom unions together)

worked a treat. I forget whom told me about this fitting, but it worked really well. Just needed to change the unions on the oil cooler for the V8 pipes to fit on.
Post #941286 6th Feb 2022 5:59pm
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shanecl



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: Louth
Posts: 506

Ireland 1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Auto Firenze Red
Devon-Rover wrote:


Click image to enlarge


Hi Devon-Rover are those bonnet bars standard land rover or did you fab up the brackets

Shane
Post #941381 7th Feb 2022 9:51am
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 916

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
The panel bracing bars are standard. I used a bit of CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make the two Triangular ish brackets and bent them up in thin steel.

The brackets go and sit square inside the tabs of the oil cooler and it's separated using M6 rubber bobbins to stop vibration cracking of the cooler. Thumbs Up Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #941486 7th Feb 2022 8:19pm
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