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foggydave



Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Bonatti Grey
Renewing wheel bearings. Is new spacer req???
Hi
Wheel bearing rumble so going to change bearings etc and swivel ball seal.
Question- Do I put the original bearing spacer back or do I have to recheck the backlash starting with the widest spacer?
Thanks
Post #940748 3rd Feb 2022 9:57am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Should measure the end float with the largest spacer fitted then identify and fit the correct spacer on TD5 and TDCi single nut type.

Good video here

 > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #940752 3rd Feb 2022 10:30am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello foggydave

I had a 'slight sounding' from RNS Wheel Bearing at 15K mileage and replaced the Bearings only
reusing the Spacer... (Single Hub Nut Type).


Click image to enlarge


The Issue was loosening and retightening the 52mm Nut (can't remember the Setting but it's high)
Definitely get yourself a 52mm socket (if you haven't got one)


Click image to enlarge


I also took off and re-greased the other 3 Wheels as something may not have been ideal at such
an early 'failure'.


Click image to enlarge


Vehicle now on 50K and all is well... but this year she gets an All Fluids Service and I will re-grease
the Wheel Bearings again.

Good Luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #940755 3rd Feb 2022 10:47am
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foggydave



Member Since: 29 Nov 2012
Location: Midlands
Posts: 263

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi
Thanks Hank thats the go to site for me for all things mechanical with my Land Rovers. I also watched that video this morning but as the spacer he used was damaged and he couldnt see what colour it was he started to find the right size using the widest spacer. What I wanted to know was wether all the bearings are the same width and can I use the original spacer?
Also is the finish torque 210nm or is it higher? [210nm is the highest my wrench will go]

Hi X4SKP Yes I have a proper socket

I also looked at the Britpart video and although it was a different method it showed the correct way to get the bearings in and out of the hub.
Post #940760 3rd Feb 2022 12:12pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4216

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I reused the same spacer, reasoning that quality bearings are ground very accurately so it's unlikely anything would change. Everything felt about right afterwards and the wheel hasn't fallen off yet. I confess I didn't check the end float, which I should have done. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #940761 3rd Feb 2022 12:18pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I have done it both ways in honesty - measuring end float and fitting the correct spacer and also reusing the old spacer when time was not on my side.

As Bluest says, likely to be ok if using quality bearings. You will know anyway by turning the hub whether it's right and turns nicely, too tight or too loose/rattling > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #940767 3rd Feb 2022 1:06pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5724

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
If using the or wanting to use the original spacer I install it all dry, so no grease, then check for play/end float, if ok assemble properly. For me the original spacer has always been ok, but I have swapped to two nut, old fashioned style now.
Post #940774 3rd Feb 2022 1:30pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It is generally unlikely that the old spacer will be wrong if all you are doing is replacing the bearings with good quality replacements. Personally if I was doing this I would as landy andy suggests assemble dry and progressively tighten the nut check for excessive tightness before final tightening.

If you are changing the hub, especially if the new hub has come from a budget supplier, then I would be more careful, since machining tolerance variations in the hub will make a difference and hubs are not manufactured to the same precision as bearings. Changing the stub axle shouldn't make any difference of course.

There are arguments both for and against changing to the no-spacer-two-nut system; personally I do prefer it since maintenance is easier provided you know how to set the bearing preload correctly.
Post #940840 3rd Feb 2022 6:35pm
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