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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841  
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Hi,
I feel your pain. My experience is of a Tdi, rather than Td5, but I don't think the heater boxes changed much between these two models. The big, thick rectangular and 'offset' seal is the challenge I think - STC952. It seals the gaps between the heater assembly and the bulkhead, but needs to be compressed to get the bolts to fit. A challenge if you've only two hands. The last time I struggled with this, I took the wing off - honestly: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post689136.html#689136 I know there's not much on a Tdi to stop the heater box being wrestled out (maybe a Td5 is different) but getting it back in, and then the seals compressed and in the right place.... it's just a 
If you're finding it difficult, and thinking that you must be doing something wrong.... possibly not. A pic of what you're dealing with would help just to confirm that all is as it should be. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Jan 2022 10:54am |
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| Tufty Member Since: 27 Nov 2020 Location: Near Guildford Posts: 19  
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Hi Donald,
Thanks for your post. On the one hand knowing it is a pain of a job is comforting, but on the other hand I really was hoping I was doing it wrong! Photos are attached, one of the heater box with the new heater to bulkhead seal siliconed to the box and another showing the engine bay with the new heater to air intake seal circled in red. Thanks, Simon |
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31st Jan 2022 2:20pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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I'm afraid I don't know anything about how to fit it, but here's your pictures:
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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31st Jan 2022 3:29pm |
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| Tufty Member Since: 27 Nov 2020 Location: Near Guildford Posts: 19
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Thank you!
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31st Jan 2022 3:36pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Ok.
The seal you've circled in red, I woudn't worry about till later. I'd remove the grille from the wingtop; undo the screws holding in the duct; and then try and push it as far forward/out of the way as you can. You do also have the Td5 wiring loom etc, and what looks like a MAF sensor making life a little more awkward. But I think the real issue is the size and strength of that big seal, which you've fitted correctly. I think I might have trimmed that back a little, if my memory's right. If you can wrestle the heater roughly into place, you might be able to fit a length of threaded rod into the two captive nuts in the bulkhead. Then, put some nuts on and slowly 'wind' the heater box in against the bulkhead, and replace the threaded rod (one at a time!) with the proper bolts...? I've only just thought of that, and maybe not explained it very well. Potentially, you could use a similar approach to then line up the two fixings into the footwell?? If I've not made that clear, I'd be happy to sketch it. It comes to mind because I did something else awkward over the weekend - fitting bushes to a RR P38 trailing arm. The solution was a long length of threaded bar and some big washers, so I'm turned on to the power of a threaded puller. Then - back to the wing duct - without the grille in place, you can get your hand down into the duct, slide it forward and check that the seal is in place. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Jan 2022 3:49pm |
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| jimbo55 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Midlands Posts: 399
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I have recently been fitting and removing the heater matrix a few too many times lately (heater matrix leak and then a few weeks later the fan motor died) on my td5 and it is a bit fiddly
I put the gasket between the wing intake and heater matrix on the heater box itself. Then wriggled the heater box into roughly the correct place and everything was close I fitted the large seal between the heater and the bulkhead and then finally bolted it all up and then connected the pipes, cables and connectors. |
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31st Jan 2022 7:11pm |
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| Tufty Member Since: 27 Nov 2020 Location: Near Guildford Posts: 19
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Donmacn,
I did try moving the duct, but the screenwash reservoir is in the way and that looked quite an involved job to move! Thanks for the tip on the threaded bars, sounds like a good idea and I will try that tomorrow, as well as trimming some off the bulkhead seal. Thanks Jimbo55 for your tips too. I will let you know how I get on. This is up there with fitting the LOF clutch spring! |
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31st Jan 2022 8:23pm |
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| jimbo55 Member Since: 15 Jul 2020 Location: Midlands Posts: 399
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One other thing, if you disconnect the multi plug (circled in green) it enables you to move the harness right out of the way which helps. It does have the BBUS connections so make sure you cycle the ignition as you would if you remove the battery to prevent the alarm going off
Click image to enlarge |
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31st Jan 2022 9:27pm |
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