DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Swivel hub pre load

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Swivel hub pre load

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Sith

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Perth W.A
Posts: 13

Swivel hub pre load

Hey all ,

This weekend I am playing the shims game with my swivel hubs . Can anyone pass on any tips or vital advice ?

thanks so much in advance Knickers , not the best thing in the world ... but right next to the best thing in the world

12th Oct 2011 1:56pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Sorry, its a fiddle, wear gloves as the grease stains!

Keith

12th Oct 2011 9:18pm

bm52

Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana

does this help - see number 34

Install upper and lower bearing tracks into swivel bearing
housing.
22. With seal lips trailing, install swivel housing inner oil seal
into rear of housing. Grease seal lips.
23. Coat swivel bearing housing to axle casing bolts with
sealant, Part No. STC 50552.
24. Coat both sides of joint washer with a sealing compound.
Position swivel bearing housing to axle mating face.
25. Place retaining plate, joint washer and oil seal over axle
flange ready for assembly.
26. Install swivel bearing housing to axle flange with 7 bolts.
Tighten to 73 Nm (54 lbf.ft).
27. Grease and install upper and lower swivel pin taper roller
bearings.
28. Position swivel pin housing over swivel bearing housing.
29. Coat joint washer both sides with sealing compound and
position on lower swivel pin.
30. Loosely install brake shield bracket plus lower swivel pin
with lug outboard to swivel pin housing.
31. Loosely install top swivel pin plus existing shims and brake
hose bracket to swivel pin housing.
32. Apply sealant, Part No. STC 50552 to threads of lower
swivel pin bolts; tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft), bend over
lock tabs.
33. Apply sealant Part No. STC 50552 to threads of top swivel
pin bolts, install bolts and tighten to 65 Nm (48 lbf.ft).
34. NOTE: Swivel housing oil seal and axle should not be
148 of 1212
34. NOTE: Swivel housing oil seal and axle should not be
fitted.
Attach a spring balance to track rod ball joint bore and pull
balance to determine effort required to turn swivel pin
housing. Resistance, once initial inertia has been overcome,
should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg. Adjust by removing or adding
shims to top swivel pin.
35. When setting is correct remove top swivel bolts, apply
sealant, Part No. STC 50552 to threads of bolts. Refit bolts
and tighten to 65 Nm (48 lbf.ft), and bend over lock tabs.
36. Apply recommended grease between lips of swivel oil seal.
37. Install oil seal, joint washer and retaining plate with 7 bolts
and spring washers. Tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
38. Install tie rod and drag link and secure with new cotter
pins. Tighten fixing to 40 Nm (30 lbf.ft).
39. Install brake disc shield.
40. Loosely install lock stop bolt and nut.
41. Apply a recommended grease between lips of swivel
housing oil seal.
42. Secure oil seal with retaining plate and securing bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
43. Install track-rod and drag link and secure with new cotter
pins.
44. Loosely install lock stop bolt for later adjustment.
45. Install brake disc shield. BM52

12th Oct 2011 9:27pm

Sith

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Perth W.A
Posts: 13

thanks so much guys !!! thissite rocks Knickers , not the best thing in the world ... but right next to the best thing in the world

13th Oct 2011 12:32am

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

Or,

Support on axle stands under chassis
remove front wheels,
disconnect track rods
now 'feel' pressure required to turn hub, it should feel reasonable resistance, without hard spots, grunching or tight spots
if its too loose, very easily moved, trolley jack and block of wood under lower swivel pin and just take weight of hub.
remove top two bolts and remove the pin, steadying hub in place, remove smallest shim, refit top pin and torque up.
Remove pressure from jack
Feel hub rotation again, if too slack repeat above and remove another shim, if only big shims are left, add back smaller shims.

Obviously a supply of shims and a vernier caliper help, as does a helper. The jack keeps the hub loaded and stops the grease running out from the seal, a helper can steady the hub to keep the top pin bearing line centralised.

I find if I can rotate the hub with one hand fully built up, it equates to the factory set up without the wiper seals etc in place. I can do both sides in about an hour, on the drive with a trolley jack and air wrench.

Good luck

Keith

13th Oct 2011 8:32pm

Sith

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Perth W.A
Posts: 13

Thanks so much Keith !

My defender runs oil in the hubs .. so hoping that is of no consequence ? I called past our local stealer and picked up 10 spare shims ... two of each sizing

once angain many thanks

Knickers , not the best thing in the world ... but right next to the best thing in the world

13th Oct 2011 9:56pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

Try 2 packs of 1 shot grease, I use it in the front of my 100" bitsa running classic range rover axles, so should work happily in a 200 / 300 Defender, better lube in hot climate I would guess also.

Standard fit in all Puma's I think also.

Best of luck, let us know how you get on.

Keith

14th Oct 2011 9:06pm

Sith

Member Since: 10 Oct 2011
Location: Perth W.A
Posts: 13

Most people use an oil called Morey's Heavy duty stabilizer in their hubs here ... but if that is what the guard requires then that is what it will be Knickers , not the best thing in the world ... but right next to the best thing in the world

15th Oct 2011 2:19am

Harry.O

Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 713

Just in the process of re-doing my swivels and replacing the balls to cure an the wobbly steering but I have a query on the torque vales for the upper and lower swivel pin bolts?

BM52's instructions earlier say top bolts 65nm and lower bolts 25nm which matches the values in the Haynes manual and looking at the bolt sizes, feels about right. Looking at my TD5 workshop manual, there is no info on rebuilding the swivels apart from the 300tdi supplementary section. This specifies 78nm for both upper and lower bolts. Can someone kindly confirm for me?

It's a 2005 Td5 110.

Many thanks,

Harry 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles

2nd Jan 2018 12:20pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum