 | Home > My Defender > 110 Puma to M57 and 8 speed auto |
 
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074  
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Has he a website or is it a face book job?
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9th Oct 2021 8:27pm |
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| Smyles_ Member Since: 25 Aug 2018 Location: Copenhagen Posts: 517 
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Facebook job Stuart
Cummins 130 Build Thread 58 130 Double Cab HCPU - Cairns Blue 04 110 Double Cab - Black (gone) 07 Audi RS4 Avant - Silver |
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9th Oct 2021 9:02pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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🍆 Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
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1st Nov 2021 12:12pm |
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| Pilgrimmick Member Since: 16 Nov 2015 Location: Highlands Posts: 582 
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Looks an awesome job.
Marcus did my 130, however I think he used me as a developmental project. The car had to go back as the clutch could not handle the power, (brand new upgraded R380) and the new clutch needs a servo assist and is still very stiff. The engine itself has never ran properly and am probably going to remove it and fit a fuel injected V8. The cost escalated during the work and ended up twice the original budget. Some of the work he did was excellent, but have not been able to use the car since as it is so unreliable. Hopefully you have a far better experience, it certainly looks a great job. 80" 1948 Lightweight V8 Bowler Tomcat 130 Station wagon 90 300tdi (Santana PS10 pick up) Range Rover L322 (Ful fat) |
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17th Dec 2021 9:05pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153 
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Next on the job list was brakes.
Much is discussed about brakes and making brake upgrades, many people considering the standard kit more than sufficient. My complaint wasn't a lack of out and out stopping power, say using the example of an emergency stop or being able to 'lock the wheels', but more a lack of feel and resistance to heat build up during extended, spirited driving. If you've driven cars with high performance brakes hard, you'll know what i mean, if you haven't, perhaps you wont. I've fitted LOF Clutches kit for 16" wheels using 4 piston calipers and two piece discs on the front and optioned stainless pistons to help fight off corrosion issues. At the same time I fitted a new TRW master cylinder and I got pioneer 4x4 to make me a kit of full length hoses right through from master cylinder, via ABS block upto the calipers. Bleeding the system took a bit of doing but i was eventually successful borrowing a nanocom which would connect to the Wabco ABS system via K-line to initiate an internal self bleed and also a power bleed as each calipers bleed nipple is cracked open in sequence of furthest from the ABS block to nearest. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Overall piston area of the front calipers is smaller than standard, pad area is larger and disc dimensions are slightly larger in diameter and quite a bit thicker. Pad options are much better than the standard calipers have, i could only find Mintex M1144 as a high performance option which i have no personal experience of, but they are highly regarded. Many pad compounds are available for the LOF calipers as they share a shape/dimensions with other high performance application calipers. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge These kits usually require 30mm wheel spacers so the calipers clear the back of the spokes but my Evocorse Dakar Zeros clear due to their zero offset. There's little space between the inner barrel and caliper though so 've moved the wheel weights from the inner rim to behind the spokes. Pedal feel was excellent once the system was completely bled and the supplied pads had bedded in over a few days / 50 or so miles. However i like an aggressive grabby pad so have since swapped for a different compound. I've always been a brand snob about EBC but having read peoples reviews of yellowstuff, and Luke from LOF recommending them i'm giving them a try. They're still bedding in so no opinion on them yet. Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Jan 2022 9:38am |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Suspension was next. Mine has 160k on it and all i've changed in my 7 years and 60k of ownership is the rear shocks to get it through an MOT. I read a lot of the discussions on here and elsewhere and opted for:-
Genuine LR springs, yellow yellow on the front as factory but white green green on the rear which was fitted to the station wagon, not my utility wagon, which are a little softer by way of three spring rates, not two (so ive read). After reading and speaking to them directly I decided not to go with Alive comfort springs as i didn't want to compromise load carrying that much for our occasional roof tent camping trips. I also wasn't necessarily looking for a softer ride, more compliant and connected. Got a good price with free delivery off site sponsor Duckworths. Alive 25mm Eibach rear ARB with superpro bushes. Fox 2.0 standard height shocks. I didn't need remote reservoirs but adjustability would have been nice. Ultimately i couldn't stomach the price. Click image to enlarge Gwyn Lewis parts; Delphi greasable ARB drop links with upgrades poly boots, HD Galvanized front turrets, turret retainers, front and rear spring perches, rear spring retainers and a full new bolt kit.Defender Superpro bush kit plus superpro bushes for front ARB that weren't included. I did the front first after watching Trailerfitters Toolbox youtube videos and that all went to plan. Came apart fine all things considered and not having a press i made a sacrifice to the rubber bush gods. Click image to enlarge Radius arms, panhard rod and ARB brackets went to a mate for an amazing blasting and powder coating, looking too good to fit underneath a crusty landrover! Click image to enlarge It all went back together nicely too, an absolute pleasure using new or freshly refurbished parts and new fixings. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The rear wasn't quite so easy to take apart, i ended up cutting most bolts due to corrosion, not having a very good impact gun or even having access to use it and working on the floor using axle stands (and the ever present thought of what it would feel like having it fall on top of me, yes even though i had additional supports!). Click image to enlarge Anyway, upper a-frame arms, lower link arms and arb d-bush brackets went off to blasting and powder coating with great results. Click image to enlarge Fitting the a-frame to chassis bushes was made easier with a tip from trailerfitter toolbox guy to use a piston ring compressor around the bush which worked a treat. A-frame balljoint was done not long after i bought the defender and it felt tight and the boot looked intact, so i left that. Mostly it went back together fine, just a lot of jiggling with jacks, axle stands and ratchet straps as the rear axle had moved between me taking it apart and putting it back together. So, the test drive.... there's a clunk from the rear going over speed bumps! Now, it could have been there already but been disguised by all the boxes of landrover essentials in the back jumping around, but i'm now trying to track it down. I found a few issues and a couple of mistakes by me. First the thicker ARB was fouling the rolled edge of the fuel tank support bracket/guard. This was annoying as it took paint off the new expensive ARB but was easily remedied with an angle grinder and a can of dinitrol. Next some plonker hadn't shut the back door properly and one rear spring wasn't correctly seated in its upper mount ! 
Next i tried swapping out the HD rear spring retainers incase these were knocking on the spring as they compressed, still no dice. So now i'm back online reading about 'defender rear noise' 'defender rear clunk' etc and there's more than a couple of threads  !
I've been driving around with my phone recording under the car to see if its something i've done but so far thats been inconclusive - here it is Next i'm reading that some people have had it where bolts holding the body to the chassis at the rear are loose or missing. Im yet to find a conclusive resource as to where these should be but i'm wondering if there should be some bolts in here? Thoughts and opinions greatly received! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Jan 2022 10:25am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Love the mods you have been doing. Very much up my street. I loved the Yellow Stuff pads, excellent stopping power. The only down side is the amount of brake dust they generate. Can't have everything
As for your going over bumps thunk, yes it is possible that the tub is impacting on the mount. There should be a rubber pad between them, but over time they will of course flatten and harden. I believe these are the pads https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...gs_52715#2 - Number 2 - ESQ000030 |
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22nd Jan 2022 11:42am |
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| pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500
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Mata did you get anywhere with the dash info display
I would really like this for mine 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid) 2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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22nd Jan 2022 7:32pm |
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| Bookachen Member Since: 25 Jan 2022 Location: Yeppoon Posts: 1 
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Mata, what transmission controller are you using?
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25th Jan 2022 12:19pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Not the one that destroys gearboxes, I’m now happily using a Turbo Lamik.
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25th Jan 2022 12:21pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Thanks, those pads are present and feel securely in place, I was wondering if there were bolts missing but it appears not. The search continues! |
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25th Jan 2022 12:22pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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Out today getting the transmission up to temperature to do a fluid level check and I’ve got to say, the suspension is really working for me. It feels, so far, like the balance between firmness and comfort is about spot on for me, body roll is reigned in and I can now push on into understeer without it feeling like it’s about to be on its roof. Still early days and the clunk is present still but I’m impressed and pleased so far with my choices.
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25th Jan 2022 12:26pm |
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| Defendermatt Member Since: 15 Sep 2016 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 313 
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You have tried HTG then? Could you give a review of both TCU's? I have heard good and bad things about both. 1989 90 4.3 V8 2012 L405 OF 2014 D4 HSE Lux (SOLD) 2015 90 HT (SOLD) @d9o.mf |
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25th Jan 2022 12:44pm |
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| mata Member Since: 24 Jan 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 153
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I tried an HTG GCU for a year and a half, it doesn’t work. Their marketing was very optimistic and misleading when I started with it; it’s a bit more conservative now. Their business model appears to be sell them and then spend the money on software development, in the meantime customers destroy gearboxes. If people keep buying GCUs giving them the cash flow to continue development I’m sure they’ll eventually have a system that meets their marketing claims.
Lamik controller came with a map for my setup pre-loaded. Once wired in there were a couple of input tweeks and setting the max torque from engine and ECU, the conservative driving for half an hour whilst it adapted and it was done. Lamik supports limited gearbox and engines currently, their business model appears to have been getting it to work properly for limited setups and then offering it for sale. The only negative comments I’ve heard about Turbo Lamik are from the owner of HTG, what have you heard? |
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25th Jan 2022 1:24pm |
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