Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Galvanised Replacement Doors |
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bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933 |
Now the td5 is gone I am going to focus on sprucing the tdi up. Both nearside doors are shot so I am planning to replace all 4 with new galvanised ones. I have been looking for some secondhand but the prices are bonkers if they are not already rusted to bits. And 700-800 seems to be the going rate for a puma door
I see that Shielder have started producing doors now https://www.shielderchassis.com/defender-doors Anyone had any experience of these? SP seem to be the other alternative but (as ever) mixed views on their service and quality. I shall be painting and fitting myself. The intention is to buy doors and all new channels/seals and then just swap over glass, winders, handles and locks. Any other options you could recommend? |
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5th Jan 2022 2:28pm |
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Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866 |
I can't speak from personal experience but the photos show some pretty big gaps and far from straight panels - not what I'd expect from a £480 door. I appreciate things can change but there are plenty of upset Shielder customers, including a friend of mine who was thoroughly unimpressed with their aftercare or lack of, I would steer clear.
As for other companies, I had a Britpart Td5 rear door on my 110 and whilst the door itself was fine, it started rusting in no time whatsoever, it was clearly mild steel not zintec. I think Genuine/OEM is the way to go. The post 2006 (Puma and very late TD5) doors are a far better design IMO and worth the extra expense. If you shop around you should do a bit better than £700-800 per door, I was fortunate enough to get a set of 4 complete from a forum member for a reasonable price and I could be sure they weren't pinched which is always good! 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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5th Jan 2022 3:35pm |
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Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 |
I fitted a set of 4 galvanised doors with zintec skins from SP4x4 to my DCPU a few years back. The service was excellent, and the product was (and remains) superb:
Click image to enlarge |
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5th Jan 2022 5:26pm |
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Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 821 |
I too have fitted a couple of sets of SP Galvanised doors and can't fault them. Their customer service has improved too and with Britcar gone I am using SP more and more.
Just to note on the last set I got the inner window winder panels need to be from 2005 on (round top doors) as Tdi or early Td5 won't fit without adjustment. |
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5th Jan 2022 6:56pm |
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Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 628 |
The SP doors are replicas of the 2002 -2005 door - the later door inner was fitted from 2002 onwards when the Defender was modified to take electric windows, not when the round top door one piece was introduced.
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5th Jan 2022 8:11pm |
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Ramsay Member Since: 30 Sep 2015 Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway Posts: 629 |
SP doors may be of earlier pattern but galvanised. This means that you can reuse door cards and door furniture. While I agree the later doors are a better design there is a lot more cost to using them. 1995 Defender 110 CSW
1971 SIIA Lightweight |
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5th Jan 2022 9:30pm |
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bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933 |
Choice is limited which is a shame. Definitely seems to be more direct experience of SP ones rather than Shielder ones. Given that it already has a galvanised chassis and galvanised bulkhead getting galvanised doors should give me lots of years of life from it.
Interesting comments about the different model year doors, had not really considered that. Looks like SP have catered for that though: "They are exactly the same in every way as 1984-2001 push button doors however the 2 lower mounting points for the inner window winding panels are in a different position. We have added a picture to show the difference. So for fitting this door to the earlier spec models we have made a bracket kit which allows for the fitting of the earlier pre 2001 inner panel to later doors." Another 15 of your pounds for each set though Think I will give SP4x4 a call in the morning to check on availability before I part with my money. Thanks for the info. |
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5th Jan 2022 9:43pm |
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Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 821 |
Thanks Oldowner for correcting me on my lack of knowledge of the inner workings of a defender front door |
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5th Jan 2022 10:09pm |
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Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 |
My SP doors were fitted to a 2002 (52 reg prefix) Black Edition 110 with electric windows and central locking. No modifications were required and the original door cards fitted just fine i.e. as well as they did before
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6th Jan 2022 10:27am |
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bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933 |
Thanks for the input.
I have hit the button and ordered 4 doors and seals and a set of hinges from SP. Trying not to weep too much at the cost |
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18th Jan 2022 10:45am |
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Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 |
If you've not switched to the lift-handle doors then you'll probably also need new pushbutton door handles - the brass threaded inserts tend to let go of the plastic when you try to remove the fixing bolt
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18th Jan 2022 10:59am |
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bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 933 |
Well, they turned up quicker than I was anticipating. Well packaged and an initial inspection shows not damage. How well they fit remains to be seen but no reason they should not be good
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge What prep do I need consider? The galv is a bit rough so am I safe to sand that down? Presume then some etch primer and then top coat. These are not going to be sprayed, I will either use coach enamel or rustoleum combicolour applied with brush and roller. |
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21st Jan 2022 1:32pm |
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Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 |
Before mine went to the sprayshop I spent a few hours drilling out the round holes to their correct sizes, re-tapping threaded parts and filing the square hole(s) to their correct sizes. I didn't feel the need to flatten any rough zinc, but if I had, I would have followed up with some cold galv spray just in case I'd exposed any steel.
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21st Jan 2022 2:12pm |
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v8bob Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: Midlands Posts: 319 |
I think a test fit and mod of any holes would be good to do first.
Then I would be inclined to give them a thorough degrease/clean then etch prime. If you wanted you could then put a high build primer as well. Then do any smoothing you think is required. Then a re-prime if needed, or just top coat. And of course finally some internal wax/protection. |
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21st Jan 2022 5:55pm |
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