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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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As Iktank says, more about future proofing the callipers. In my tenure Miffy has been through two sets of callipers... Done with the insanity of doing the same thing again. This time I want to do the pistons and perhaps some paint to prolong the slide in to rusty lumps behind the wheels.
Braided hoses made a decent difference to the feel of the pedal, especially if replacing ageing rubber hoses. Upgraded drilled and grooved discs, EBC, Britpart or alike are an excellent upgrade. Don't discount Britpart discs they have been excellent on the back of Miffy. At the time of upgrading there was no other choice for the rear of a 110. That's how long they have been on there
Pads are a matter of preference, EBC are good, sometimes take a bit to warm up in cold climates and produce ALOT of brake dust. Yellow EBC are slightly worse for that but when up to temp brake exceptionally well. I personally hate Mintex as they just seemed to squeal like a pig being stuffed. The Brembo pads I have on now are excellent all rounders, even in the cold, but there is a fair amount of brake dust. As some of you will know Miffy had an advisory on corroded brake lines and inefficient rear brakes. So she has new lines, servo (to replace a scabby second hand unit) and master cylinder. The latter has been on since new so perhaps the cause of the inefficient rear braking due to an old seal. All I need now are the callipers. Thinking about getting a cheap second hand set and refurbing them with stainless pistons. Or buying a clean set and just swapping out the pistons for stainless ones... Which would be the most expedient solution  |
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27th Dec 2021 9:43am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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So thinking of refurbing your Defender 110 calipers?
What parts do we need? (Prices inc VAT) Front Vented Caliper Stainless Piston and Seal Kit: Part Number DA1166 - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper...27331.html - £80 LOF stainless refurb kit: https://lofclutches.com/shop/brakes/brakec...cba1185463 - £67.20 Inner Caliper Seal: Part number 3851-739 - https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/brake...12-6-13-4/ - £2.30 ea Rear Caliper Stainless Piston and Seal Kit: Part Number DA1172 - https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/brake-caliper...27330.html - £48 inc Vat LOF stainless refurb kit: https://lofclutches.com/shop/brakes/brakec...cba1185463 - £43.20 Inner Caliper Seal: Part Number RTC1137 - https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/brake...SEAL-15-3/ - £29 Defender 110 front and rear caliper refurb kit: Part Number CPK12801ST - https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/brake...s-def-110/ - £99.50 Brake caliper piston and seal tool: Part Number DA1153 - £88 Cheapest Total cost inc. tool: £187 assuming not splitting the calipers. The paint on top if that is what you want to do. Buying a full set of callipers from LOF with stainless pistons: £624 inc VAT I know some of you have done refurbs before... Do the above part numbers make sense? Have I missed anything out? |
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27th Dec 2021 11:47am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878  
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For those that know these things, I’m aware that there was a lot of cross pollination of parts between the Defender and the original D1. But on brakes, what difference is there between Defender and the D2? Complete different system? Mounting points etc? Are the two in anyway interchangeable? Just wondering. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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27th Dec 2021 11:56am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878
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I’ll await answers from others, but in the meantime thanks for putting in the web surfing graft Geobloke, that’s hugely useful. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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27th Dec 2021 11:58am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2270 
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I would suggest that drilled discs are a waste of money if you green lane or off road as the drillings fill with mud.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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27th Dec 2021 12:00pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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It is entirely likely Mo. The properly drilled discs are very long lasting, it is the dimpled and grooved that tend to fill up with mud, brake dust and rust.
But how many Defenders actually get that muddy... |
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27th Dec 2021 12:07pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 870 
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Slight thread drift in that it refers to brake cylinders rather than pistons…
In the last few years I’ve had to replace one or the other or both of my Mog’s rear brake cylinders SEVEN times! Not because of LR-type off-roading or mud and crud, but simply that the replacements for the original Lockheed ones are made in India from the cheapest materials on the planet and rust over Winter. Now costing me upwards of sixty quid a pop, would it be cost-effective to have them refurbished? Any recommendations? Peter |
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27th Dec 2021 12:49pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5878
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Birdy, Are you not able to seal them? Cover them in a bag with some cable ties? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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27th Dec 2021 1:17pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4227 
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I've not owned one but I think the D2 used different sliding/floating style calipers. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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27th Dec 2021 1:17pm |
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