 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear diff pinion oil seal… any hints or tips? |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1850  
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Hi folks,
I have a RR P38 - and the question relates to that rather than the Defender, but since it’s a P38 diff I have on the rear of the Defender I’ll be able to get a double benefit from any advice offered! I’ve removed the rear axle for a wee refurb and I’m wondering if I should just do the rear diff pinion seal while it’s sitting on the bench? Though I tried to be careful, I have a suspicion that while using a wire brush on the grinder to remove rust from the diff casing some bits of rust might have sneaked between the dirt flange and the seal. I’d be really peed off if I fitted it only to find the seal leaked in a couple of weeks time. Based on the condition the half-shaft seals at the ends of the axle were in it probably wouldn’t need it otherwise, but it seems like a good idea. Now despite owning two previous RR classics, and a Defender for over 20 years, I’ve never done one of these. So what’s it like? I’m in two minds whether to buy a proper drive flange holding tool, or just to drill two holes in a bit of steel bar. Any thoughts? Any particular issues in getting the seal out / back in? Just generally any thoughts? Ta. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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19th Dec 2021 8:45pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1850
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Hi and thanks,
I agree - I certainly didn't get the brush itself in there, but the diff casing (and the whole axle assembly) was covered in a 1-2mm layer of 'blown' rust. Possibly boat launching by a previous owner. I'm concerned that a few bits of rust will have been pushed under the flange and could start damaging the seal? It's just that it's sat right in front of me and seems too good a chance to pass up. Even if I found the flange itself to be rusty and at risk of not sealing well, it's not currently my daily driver so I could afford to wait till a new flange/shield was delivered. If you've done this before what was your experience? Simple enough, or a PITA? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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19th Dec 2021 11:37pm |
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| I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 820  
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Not a P38 diff but Rover diffs and Salisbury diff. Replacing worn seals on old axles is a bit potluck. Sometimes works right off the bat, luverly jubbly. Other times it takes 2 or 3 visits to get a lasting, oil tight seal. Given a choice I really wouldn't disturb an oil tight seal on a rusty old axle like you are describing.
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19th Dec 2021 11:52pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1850
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Ah well... ! A genuine thanks for your advice... but I think I'll probably just go ahead anyway!
This may well turn out to be the wrong thing to do, but I can't get round the fact that it's just sitting there and I don't have to ferret around underneath the car. It was rusty, but no longer. I can’t find a ‘before’ pic of the diff alone at the moment but this is what the axle looked like when I pulled it out.  Click image to enlarge After some serious attention with the grinder brush and some smaller brushes on the drill to get into the nooks and crannies…. Click image to enlarge This is it now. The blue is the tie-in primer from the POR-15 system and there's already a coat of 'direct to rust' under there. I’ll be putting on the top coat this evening. Click image to enlarge The axle casing was shot-blasted, primed and painted elsewhere, though I wasn’t terribly impressed with the painting so have decided to do more on that myself. Click image to enlarge So, with all due respect, and accepting that you may well be right - and that I should leave well alone, I think I’ll have a go anyway. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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20th Dec 2021 12:17pm |
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