 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Defender puma bp-51 |
 
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4206   
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Why are the BP51 not meant for Pumas?
If you switch to pin/pin on the rear it should solve the problem of snapping the shocks. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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9th Nov 2021 7:05am |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 659 
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Have you removed the spot welded caps off your shock mounts?
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9th Nov 2021 7:16am |
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| Tsoa Member Since: 09 Nov 2021 Location: Madagascar Posts: 8 |
I ve been asking myself the same question. Can t see why it wouldn t work. But as you can see, arb s selection tool clealy excludes puma version. Yes. Switching to pin pin would solve the snapping problem. Arb actuallu .has that option available woth he high articulation shock. You replace the top shock mount and use a pin pin shock instead of pin hole. Didn t have any in stock when i snapped the first 3 so just went with regular mount. I m really inclined on installing the bp s though. I ve been using them on my 80 series cruiser and they just ride great. Which is why i m trying to find out if anybody installed them. And did they encouter any issues |
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9th Nov 2021 7:53am |
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| Tsoa Member Since: 09 Nov 2021 Location: Madagascar Posts: 8 |
No. The locator cups are still in place. So i just kept them and didn t install the locator washers that came with the shocks. Thw fact that i m running without sway bars is probably the biggest contributor to me snapping the shocks though. I heard 2 of the snaps happen when the car was in full flex. |
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9th Nov 2021 7:57am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2629  
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If the original rear shock snapped at the upper ring mount then more often than not it is because the nut has been done up too tight.
Before I switched to pin to pin I would attached the top mount first, and when tightening the nut I would swing the shock through an arc. Once there was a little resistance then I would back it off a smidge and then attach the bottom mount. When the vehicle is on level ground it’s easy to forget that the axle rotates forward when articulating, hence the upper mount needs to be free to rotate with it. And yes, in my early days I snapped a shock before realising how I got it wrong. Those BP’s look amazing, but also very expensive, can’t go wrong with OME, and you won’t have to add on the costs of the additional hardware to install it. Good luck Picture of mine with + 5” OME, note the rear axle position when lifted.  Click image to enlarge |
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9th Nov 2021 8:01am |
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| Tsoa Member Since: 09 Nov 2021 Location: Madagascar Posts: 8 |
Thanks for the tip about swinging the shocks. First time arouns, it was definitely done up too tight. The other times, i already inscrewed a bit to give it wiggle room. Guess it was still too tight. Didn t think to move it along the wheel travel arc so see if there was any resistance.
Do you by any chance have a pic of the car sitting flat and not jacked up? With the current standart ome lift, i think i m around 2inch lift. Switching to long travel for the bp s. ( Nirmally designed for 110 not 90) so lift might go up to 3in or maybe a bit more as ther ll be less weighr on the rear. How s the handling on 5 inch? Do you have sway bars on? Car looks great btw. Here s mine woth the 2 inch lift. Click image to enlarge |
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9th Nov 2021 8:26am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4206
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It might be worth emailing a reputable Defender modification specialist that sells ARB (like Devon 4x4 or Gwyn Lewis) to ask their opinion on fitting them to a Puma. I don't think anything changed in the suspension between the TD5 and the Puma. Maybe its just that ARB didn't test it specifically on a Puma so therefore can't recommend them. I know Australian Design Rules can be pretty strict when it comes to suspension mods. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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9th Nov 2021 10:05am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2629
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Hi Ts
Only picture I have at present Click image to enlarge With the OME shocks Gwyn Lewis recommends not using ARB’ as that would limit travel. No harm in having them on for road use and only taking them off for green lane, play days on private sites. I would use the spacer blocks sold by Extreme 4x4, cheaper than Terrafirma. I did an experiment on my drive with the front ARB (I removed the rear as soon as I got my 90 eleven and a half years ago and never felt the need to refit it). With the Extreme 4x4 ARB spacer block fitted and the jack lifting the vehicle, per my earlier picture the difference with the ARB fitted and removed is hardly anything as most of the axle articulation is at the rear of the vehicle. For the last six weeks I have been running the 90 without the front ARB to get a really good feel of it and handles really well, it will do 90mph and I have full confidence. I am running heavy duty springs so even with a two inch lift and a roll cage it’s very flat with next to no body roll. The ARB will tighten this up a smidge. It’s down to preference. I would also highly recommend fitting the Terrafirma adjustable Panhard rod. This is easily over looked but does improve the handling when lifted and stops it feeling ‘crashy and uncomfortable’ over speed humps at speed. When fitting, put the old and new side by side so that the eyelets are equal then add 8mm as a starting point, with a three inch lift you will have to add a little more. As I was on my own when fitting it I had to use a bottle jack on its side and a block of wooden up against the garage wall and front bumper to shift the chassis over so the Panhard rod lined up with the mounting hole. You won’t need to then beat the bolt in with a hammer….. Do speak to Gwyn Lewis. A great guy, lots of experience and postage is super quick, DHL. Good luck |
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9th Nov 2021 11:29am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2227 
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If I'd broken 4 rear shocks in 2 years I'd be asking myself,
Am I fitting these right ? fitting the bush cups the wrong way round is the most common way to break the pin off a rear shock or Is there a manufacturing defect, in the case of which I'd be looking at some other brands, not more of the same ! Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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9th Nov 2021 11:34am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2162 
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That is your problem. Those cups must be removed when fitting 95% of aftermarket shocks Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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9th Nov 2021 11:37am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2629
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Another picture
This is taken without the front anti roll bar in place Click image to enlarge Compare that to the earlier picture of the side on shot of my 90. At both times I jacked the vehicle up until the front wheel lifted. Again the difference at between the with and without is not huge. My driveway slopes slightly down towards the garage door so I was playing it safe, both opposite wheels chocked, centre and rear locker engaged and the 90 was rock solid on the jack. Not hugely scientific without the use of a fork lift truck but good enough to compare results.. |
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9th Nov 2021 11:37am |
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| matooo Member Since: 31 Jan 2013 Location: brno Posts: 1 
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Click image to enlarge I have bp51 for 4 months and works great. now in winter I will have more time to play with difrent setting. Click image to enlarge |
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15th Dec 2021 9:42pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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No doubt about it the BP-51 is one sexy looking shock absorber...
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15th Dec 2021 10:02pm |
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| Tsoa Member Since: 09 Nov 2021 Location: Madagascar Posts: 8 |
Still have stock panhard fitted. Will look into replacing that along with the front propshaft. |
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16th Dec 2021 4:39am |
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