 | Home > In Car Electronics > Double din surround to fit better - how |
 
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 815   
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No idea but following this as mine could also do with a shove in the right direction.
Think there is a heater vent that can be heated up then pushed back to give clearence but mine was a rush fit to get tunes, but needs to come out soon to fit a camera and rca’s Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing. 5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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5th Nov 2021 5:14pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365  
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I know it's really tight behind the dash - on the Mud UK website they have fitting instructions for their double DIN fascia and it points out the lack of space and they say:
"On a full depth head unit you may discover that the central support bracket at the very back of the dashboard may need removing to provide clearance for the back of the head unit. This can be found (highlighted in red below) attached to the tubular bracing bracket that runs across the bulkhead" Here's the diagram showing the bracket - hope it helps!  |
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5th Nov 2021 5:32pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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That could be usefull thank you.
When I take apart I will have a look. With all the wires it's very tight but I will give it a go  |
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6th Nov 2021 9:26pm |
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| acnorman1 Member Since: 07 Sep 2016 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 22 
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I haven’t sorted mine out yet but have exactly the same problem. I have removed the support as described above as part of the installation but I think an area to look at is where the AC vents attach. Have heard people suggesting softening them with a heat gun. Let me know how you get on!
I like your leather dash trim bits. Can I ask whether you’re happy with them and where you got them? TIA! |
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15th Nov 2021 7:34pm |
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| MattyEssex Member Since: 23 Jul 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 77 
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I done this at the weekend and currently no way to get it back in. I have ordered an extension cable for the rear heated window as that cable is at full stretch to reach top right so suspect this may be pulling other wires that are getting in the way.
It has however given me time to order the replacement bulbs around the heating controls and a metal clip that disappeared off the original facia. I also need to sort out the new Nakatanenga aerial I fitted at the same time - DAB it awful and suspect it is to do with the earthing - if anyone has any suggestions where to get a decent earth from the short wire on the powered unit then it would be greatly appreciated. I have seen it needs a main earth but the cable is so short I suspect it would need extending back in to the engine bay? If all else fails it is up to the Audio shop that put these in (amongst other mods for Defenders) for a living. |
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16th Nov 2021 7:53am |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 815
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For the power/earth for the antenna I was going to get two iso power connectors one male, one female and rig a jumper unit off that and put it between the radio and car harness gets me a good power and earth from the same as the head unit. Don’t know if it would work as still waiting for the connector kit to come from eBay (3 weeks and counting) Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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16th Nov 2021 8:16am |
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| MattyEssex Member Since: 23 Jul 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 77
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I took the power from the ISO but have read it requires a solid earth which has been proved as currently earthed off another earth wire on ISO but little if no DAB reception.
Think it needs true body earth (if thats a term). |
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16th Nov 2021 9:24am |
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| MattyEssex Member Since: 23 Jul 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 77
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Just an update, I popped into the local Audio fitters that also specialise in Defender Mods and he said what they do is heat the rear vents up and then with a block of would push to make a dent in them level with the HU goes back, by also removing the bracket this provides additional space. Also mentioned to run all cables above so the HU hold them up when pushed in.
Hopefully with this and the extension cable that arrived yesterday should have it fitted soon.  |
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17th Nov 2021 4:16pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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Hello
Some good advice, I thought I read somewhere ages ago about the heat gun method. I will give this ago when I have some power in my workshop
acnoman1 I'm very happy with the trim bits make the truck feel quite different. I had them done at OEM developments, it did take ages and not sure he is even around now? I changed the seats to Autobiography tam Windsor leather (bit of a job) do it was nice to get the otter bits to match  |
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17th Nov 2021 6:29pm |
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| twdi Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: Eindhoven Posts: 7 
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I also doubt myself to have my 1din radio replaced by a 2-din with the help of a fascia. In particular, the inaccessibility of the alarm button is difficult for me with a radio with a folding screen.
Unfortunately the 2-din fascia's are very expensive at the moment. Which radio do you have and is it reasonably resistant to vibration? Does apple carplay work well on it? |
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18th Nov 2021 7:59am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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Hello
I Have this radio.. Seems pretty good? Been in a few years now, also needed a DAB aerial (about £15) It has DAB + Reversing camera Bluetooth (can read texts etc) and send them I use Android auto and it works great. Waze maps / Google maps Amazon Music https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-SPH-DA230...&psc=1 I also have 2 sets of amp leads coming out the back so its all very tight in the already tight gap... |
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18th Nov 2021 3:20pm |
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| MattyEssex Member Since: 23 Jul 2021 Location: Essex Posts: 77
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I went with the Pioneer AVH-Z9200DAB as I wanted wireless car play. I must say they do seem dated probably due to screen size but provides all the functions required.
Haven't noticed any issues with vibration but then only been in a week and not even fixed in. |
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19th Nov 2021 1:03pm |
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| alastaid Member Since: 03 Dec 2013 Location: York Posts: 78
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Regarding the original point raised, one trick I have learnt after doing my Double Din is that often the clips that push in above the torx screws often just push the plastic lugs back towards the bulkhead rather than clip in, which can push the double din cover back in the place shown leaving a gap. I found that if you take out the electric window switches and make sure the electrics are near the holes before you push the double din back in, after clipping everything in, carefully put your finger in the electric window switch and you can then feel upwards and pull the plastic lug back over the clip. Its really tight, and you scratch your fingers to bits, but I have got both sides done on mine. You then use long nose pliers to retrieve the electric connectors for the window switches, connect them to the switches, then just push the switches back in. Maybe mine is the only one that doesn't clip in properly, but mine did have a gap like the OP, and this did fix it, I only found out by putting it in without the electric switches in to see if it was clipping in properly and felt that it wasnt.
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19th Nov 2021 9:12pm |
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| twdi Member Since: 18 Nov 2021 Location: Eindhoven Posts: 7
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I'm considering to have a double din installed so I can add a nice radio and still have access to the buttons.
But I'm wandering, does anyone know if this a selling plus for the car? I can imagine that potential buyers would rather see an original dashboard... ?? |
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2nd Dec 2021 2:47pm |
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