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alastaid

Member Since: 03 Dec 2013
Location: York
Posts: 78

Power steering box leak - Puma

Hi,

Noticed the power steering box is leaking from the shaft that goes to the steering column. The steering works fine, no issues or strange noises. Car has only done 19K miles, however I know the previous owner had a leak on the box fixed under warranty at the dealer, and after reading loads of threads this may mean it got one of "reconditioned" units the dealers were fitting of dubious quality. Also, looking at threads, it seems it is really difficult to get a "brand new" adwest box. I suppose the reason for the post is how difficult is it to fix that leak, is it a box out and easily switch a seal, or am I into a Haynes 5 spanner nightmare? I am thinking I am better off with the box I have as apart from the leak it is ok, and "probably" hasn't done many miles.

Thanks,

Alastair

Click image to enlarge

2nd Nov 2021 1:53pm

Advanced Factors
Site Sponsor

Member Since: 06 Jun 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 178

1994 Defender 90 V8 Petrol SW Corris Grey

Hi Alastair

We have Genuine Adwest Steering Box's in stock.

Please follow the link below to our website

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/steering...-405-c.asp

Two choice dependent on chassis number.

Regards Paul Paul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2760
www.advancedfactors.co.uk
Site Sponsor for Aftermarket Parts

2nd Nov 2021 4:37pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4209

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Have a look on Britannia Restorations YouTube Channel. He rebuilt a box recently and explained that the input shaft from the column can be resealed successfully. It is the other shaft to the drop arm that is problematic. Might be helpful info for you. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

2nd Nov 2021 4:55pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

I have rebuilt an old version of the Adwest box. Same input shaft seals though.
I would be cautious using self tapping extraction method as explained in you tube videos...I have explained why in my rebuild thread, linked below.

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic79246.html

You might use the hydraulic pressure to push the seal out. Be prepared to rust proof the chassis (oily mess). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

2nd Nov 2021 10:20pm

alastaid

Member Since: 03 Dec 2013
Location: York
Posts: 78

Dinnu,

Thanks for the advice, I was thinking about getting the drill out, but may take your route, however a bit of a stupid question. When you say apply compressed air to one of the ports, do you mean either the reservoir port or pump port and keep the other closed/ blocked? Do you think this is possible to do without removing the box, or is it a box out job regardless?

Thanks

3rd Nov 2021 7:16am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

I used compressed air, because the box was on the bench. I cannot recall which port I blew into, but I am sure that I did not block the other port.

You of course need to remove the circlip, was very easy to do on the bench, perhaps a bit fiddly in situe, but not impossible (perhaps have a small mirror to help viewing). Very important is to put a vice grip on the input shaft, that was you keep the seals and you can take a careful note on the sequence and orientation.

I re read my assembly procedure:

If your box is just leaking, and otherwise is mechanically perfect, it is still advisable to remove the sector shaft and the worm. Reason is that it is very very very difficult to install the seals properly with the sector shaft and the worm still in situe. I tried it with the worm (so I can get the preload on the worm bearings correct), but I had to take off the worm again to install the seals. If you have taken the sector shaft and worm out, then might as well take the rest out so that all seals are new. I found a seal which was not installed properly by Adwest!.
A note on the worm seals. There seem to be 2 variants. I had seal kit STC2847G (this is Corteco), and luckily this kit contains both worm seal types. Below is a picture of the 2 seals. I think the later boxes have the more standard seal type (with the garter spring). This has a larger OD. The earlier bozes, such as mine, has a 'flanged' seal. It has a smaller OD, and there is kind of a flange.

Fitting the seals is straight forward. Just remember that the first seal is with the lip facing inwards, to keep the oil in, and the second seal is with the lip facing outwards to keep the dust and crud out. My box, on the sector shaft seal has what is called an 'extrusion' seal between the inner and the outer seal. I could not find this in the Corteco seal kit, so I had to re use the original one.

I remember that when I removed the input shaft seals, I ran out of time, so I re installed them back so as not to forget their sequence. But they were 33year old seals, so went back in easily. Since I had everything apart, I installed the new seals first. But I believe that the input seal can still be done with the input shaft in place. Lubricate the seal well so it slips in easier.

If it was the sector shaft seal.. in my opinion it is mission impossible to install the sector shaft seal with shaft in situe.[/u] 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

3rd Nov 2021 9:13am

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