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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727   
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Long story short, it is a Shielder one. I have refrained from posting about it until now, as a post I made about what to get resulted in a lot of negative feedback about Shielder. I was struggling for alternatives, so my Father offered to spend a dat phoning around Land Rover specialists asking for recommendations. In the end, he had a long conversation with a garage in Dorset (I think), who fit Shielder ones in a weekly basis. The said that there were some issues with the early ones, but they worked with Shielder to correct the problems, and now they are fine. I have not built mine up far enough to tell yet, but so far all seems to fit fine. I will say that the sales guy they have (who I have forgotten the name of  ) was excellent, extremely helpful and I had it within a week of ordering. Even after it was delivered he reached out to me to say if I had any questions please ask, as the service does not stop at the delivery. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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19th Oct 2021 11:27pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866  
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I would be interested to know how you get on with the bead roller, it's a tool I have always fancied and that one looks particularly good with a min dia. of 10mm. I may also end up making the coolant pipes myself, after looking more closely at the P38 set up yesterday I don't think much if any of it will be usable in the engine bay of a Defender....
I'd be grateful if you could post some photos (dims would be brilliant too please) of what you make. Re the bulkhead, glad to hear a positive experience! I did suspect that they must have upped their quality or would have gone bust by now! I'm speaking to Ultra bulkheads (XD chassis) about one for my build, I had intended to repair, dip and galvanise mine but I don't think it's worth the hassle. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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20th Oct 2021 7:51am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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I had intended to repair mine too - and had gone as far as to buy all the parts from YRM, and put myself through a week's formal TIG welding course to learn to how weld semi-properly.
In the end, working out how to weld all the parts together and still have the bulkhead in the right dimensions was just too daunting. Some sort of jig would have been necessary, but even with that I don't know how you avoid it warping when you weld it - so I abandoned ship and bought the a new galvanized one. This way I know all the metal is new and its protected both internally as well as externally. Yes I'll let you know how I get on with the beading tool - I bought the heavy duty one for stainless which has a minimum internal diameter of 15mm, but that is still small enough for 3/4" external diameter tube so should be good to go. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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20th Oct 2021 8:14am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 487
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I would recommend going with the later Defender type heater as the matrix is bigger and more reliable
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20th Oct 2021 9:18am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Fast forward 6 months, and things have not progressed much.
As a reminder, I was trying to solve the problem of connecting the heater matrix to the particular mix of front end engine parts which I happen to have on the v8. The defender part does not fit - the alternator bracket and damper is sitting right where the pipe would run behind:  Click image to enlarge Plan B was to therefore roll my own solution, and purchased form 3/4" stainless steel tubing. For Shroppy's benefit, the beading tool beaded the end nicely, although quite a lot of force was needed on the tightening knob: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge However... It split the pipe on the in the internal weld: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge which is less than ideal. I do wonder if I've ended up with too thick gauge stainless. I don't recall what I ordered, and the thickness seems to vary when measured depending on this side you measure on - but between 1.6 -> 1.9mm thick, whatever that would be in the old measurement system. It would have been disappointing to have had this happen on the piece I had carefully bent, so at least on one end - do the bead before the bending, and don't bead it too far. Maybe I tried to bead it too much in one go too? Anyway, its all irrelevant to a degree. When I came to bend the pipe using one of those 22mm DIY benders (intended for copper pipe) I didn't have the muscles to bend it at all. When I put a breaker bar in the end of the bender to increase the leverage - I ended up bending the bender rather than the pipe... woops sorry Father (who's bender I had borrowed). OK so plan C - Tigwelder's suggestion of part PEP000090 might work. Duly ordered up... Click image to enlarge ... and it doesn't fit either. If I have it the 'right way up' if I have understood the diagrams correctly, its about an inch inboard, and two inches short of the Defender bottom pipe. Click image to enlarge I suspect this is because it was intended to fit into that plastic heart thing which houses the thermostat on the p38/D2? Curiously if I invert it - it fits into the bottom pipe OK - although the top is then not exactly parallel to the rocker cover! Click image to enlarge Also - either way round, there is nothing to attack it to the engine. I had expected the various tabs to line up with the holes on the engine, but they don't so that is a mystery to me too. So, I need a plan D, E, and F. Options that I have come up with include: (a) I could have a go at bending PEP000090 and sit it in its inverted position - so the top part of parallel to the rocker cover. This still doesn't offer any way of fitting it to the engine, and I don't really want to start trying to weld something on to this pipe, it looks pretty thin walled. (b) Get a bigger pipe bender. A new (to me) UK website has popped up selling an 'improved' version of the JD-squared pipe bender: https://www.tubela.com/brand/jd2 which would bend this stainless no problem at all. Its an eye-wateringly expensive tool though, the 'starter kit' being around a grand - and even then you are only getting 3 dies for future projects. (c) Get thinner walled stainless, and hope that bends without kinking too badly using the existing, slightly bend, bending tool. (d) A box of matches, a jerry can of fuel, and a deserted lane somewhere... Solve all these problems in one swift strike. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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22nd May 2022 5:03pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3685 
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E) find a local fabricator and see if they have a pipe bender. It would be 30s work for them to bend it parallel and they’re probably unlikely to charge more than a pint of beer.
If you were a hit nearer I’d have happily taken it into work and sorted it out for you. |
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22nd May 2022 5:28pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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I did consider that Co1, but I can't see how it could really work without the vehicle there to fit it to when bending. Its going to be a series of compound bends (similar to the original equipment pipes), so I don't think I could really take it somewhere and say "give me a 90 degree bend there, a 30 degree bend there and there..." if you see what I mean. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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22nd May 2022 5:35pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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My 4.6 has the same pipe and it goes down to the bottom rad hose. I don’t have the plastic heart thingy. I’d have to check but my serp front cover/end looks slightly different to yours.
Click image to enlarge |
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22nd May 2022 8:24pm |
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