 | Home > Technical > Door hinge hardware torque spec? |
 
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Sweeden Posts: 342  
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swapping over to stainless- is there a torque spec for the bolts?
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16th Sep 2021 5:48pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Sweeden Posts: 342
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You act as if it’s a poor idea to swap to Nangetanenga’s stainless kit. If so state your case I’m very curious.
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16th Sep 2021 9:31pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443  
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Personally I wouldn't because there can be issues with stainless, but many do and are happy with the result. Stainless is quite strong enough to hold the doors on.
My particular hatred of stainless is largely the result of being the owner of a Patriot rack, an aluminium structure supplied bolted together with stainless countersunk hex socket screws which have, as stainless is prone to do, welded themselves into the alloy to the extent that they can only be removed by drilling. Utterly pointless and unnecessary, and very annoying. Over the years I have had far more problems with stainless fasteners (especially near aluminium alloys) than BZP steel, and they are weaker. I hate the things and would never knowingly buy a pre-owned Defender which had had been "upgraded" with stainless fasteners. Just my opinion, there will be many who disagree. |
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16th Sep 2021 9:51pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Agree with Blackwolf. Long time ago (10 years I think) I replaced all original mild steel screws by stainless. Within a few years I removed them again and put new genuine mild steel screws with ample use of Weicon anti-seize assembly paste. The good thing about Weicon paste is that it never will harden up. I also have a stock of each type of genuine screw, just in case a mild steel screw might start rusting. Since I reinstalled the new mild steel screws with the Weicon paste (must be about 8 years ago or so, I think) I had only one screw which started showing a bit of surface rust on the visible section. Simply replaced that one then by new again. No worries about bi-metallic corrosion when doing that, and truck is perfectly in order.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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17th Sep 2021 9:20am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301 
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I fitted a stainless bolt kit maybe four years ago. Has been absolutely fine. Snug them up nice and tight, just don't go crazy with the torque. > 110 XS Double Cab
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17th Sep 2021 9:44am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3422  
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Although I do know that common A2-70 and A4-70 stainless steel is not as strong as grade 8.8, and knowing that there is a greater difference in the galvanic table between stainless steel and aluminum, I am one of those who still like to use stainless steel.
For the front and 2nd row door hinges, galvanic corrosion is less of a concern, it is cast steel hinges / door frame (or complete door in case of Puma), with a steel bulkhead. For the rear door, the side panels are reinforced with steel brackets, and not an area prone to corrosion. The problem with most (if not all) supplier SS hinge bolts is that I only find regular countersunk screws with a hex head (allen key). Firstly cosmetically I do not find them looking right. Secondly, if the countersunk binds to the hinge, and/or the captive nut, corrodes, then rounding the head on next removal is very possible. For me, on my old 90, since the original were pozi, I went for pozi pan heads, which I modified to countersunk. In A2-70 stainless grade. A2-80, or better A4-80 is less common, and I could not get locally. Note that grade 80 SS is as strong as steel grade 8.8. I was quite chuffed with how my screws turned out.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge For the rest of the screws around the Defender bodywork, I am very careful when using stainless steel and always isolate when there is contact with aluminum. However this might not always be necessary as the surface area of any stainless steel fastener to the surface area of the aluminum is very small. Never use stainless in critical, more stressed assemblies. Coming to the original question, just mind that if hex socket screw (allen key), there is a risk of rounding the head, especially being softer stainess with a torque specification for steel torx bolts. But you should be able to do them tight enough for the doors. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Sep 2021 3:01pm |
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