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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
TIG Settings for Bodywork
I’ve got some sacrificial bits to practice on. For those in the know where would you start from a settings perspective?
Post #919187 30th Aug 2021 8:29am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3428

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Sorry I cannot help, but will be watching your progress with great interest.

What are you planning to weld, aluminium body work?

Share what equipment you will be trying with? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #919189 30th Aug 2021 9:33am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Yep, aluminium bodywork. It’s more for satisfaction of being able to do it rather than an immediate need!!
Post #919201 30th Aug 2021 11:01am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

AC TIG with HF stat ( not dc ) to start with 100% argon gas and set up will depend work plane and filer rods and torch tips and lot practice
Post #919206 30th Aug 2021 11:30am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3428

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
On the topic of welding, I have once seen a trick of spot welding aluminium using a common and cheaper spot welder. The trick was to have the aluminum sheets to spot weld sandwiched between 2 thin sheets of steel. The steel create enough resistance to melt and fuse the aluminium together.
I have tried it on some scrap aluminium panels, and it works (still to fine tune and hone the process - just never had the need yet). Too much current/time/clamp pressure will melt through the aluminun.. too little current/time/clamp pressure can lead to no welding. There is a very small process window to get it right.

Hope to get some time to tune this process.. as I have a very small hole in the seat box side pane that I like to sort out with a replacement panel.

Alternatively there are incredibly strong glues, which could the the job just as good (if not better as they spread the load). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #919223 30th Aug 2021 2:20pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Had a bit of a first attempt today but not a great deal to report. Just had a spare half hour but the weld appeared to be both too hot and not hot enough at the same time! This might take a bit of fettling!! I was flying solo today though and will have a mentor later in the week.
Post #919228 30th Aug 2021 2:31pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 625

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Use 5356 rods. Go easy in short bursts working around the outside of the hole onwards. I’ve done corrosion holes, holes from removed chequerplate, aerial holes in roofs etc.
I have a Lorch handyTIG 180, it has paid for itself many times over although need to upgrade now as need a water cooler.


Click image to enlarge

Corrosion on Puma tub from rear tub stays.


Click image to enlarge

Chequerplate holes filled in rear tub
Post #919434 31st Aug 2021 8:37pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1225

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Co1 wrote:
Had a bit of a first attempt today but not a great deal to report. Just had a spare half hour but the weld appeared to be both too hot and not hot enough at the same time! This might take a bit of fettling!! I was flying solo today though and will have a mentor later in the week.

Add a lump of copper or something similar behind as a heat sink. Bodywork is thin so until you practice a lot you may struggle.

If your TIG has a pulse mode might be worth playing with that - I.e. High current in very short burst, quick enough to melt the metals but not a high average current to introduce a lot of heat into the part. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #919465 1st Sep 2021 6:43am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Cheers all, much appreciated. I’ll keep playing and let you know how I get on.
Post #919577 1st Sep 2021 6:53pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Had a few conversations today where different people said it needs to be AC and unfortunately I only have a DC welder. If I was to bond a section over the holes, what is the best thing to use?

Cheers
Col
Post #919691 2nd Sep 2021 5:22pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

DC tig welder for mild steel and S/S
Post #919710 2nd Sep 2021 6:46pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
AC for aluminium TIG, yes.
I have a DC TIG that I've tried using on steel bodywork and it doesn't have a low enough current settings.

I've moved over to a MIG and it's a bajillion times easier.

One of these:
https://www.weldingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/we...i-160.html

Great service from WSD and I like the welder.
Post #920252 6th Sep 2021 3:44pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Thanks all. Had a play with an AC unit today and managed some reasonable runs with 40A, however not good enough to immortalise on the Internet with pics! Filling holes on thin defender bodywork is not going to be easy for someone with my lack of experience, so I think I’ll weld through to plates on the back and seam sealer them to prevent any ingress.
Post #920269 6th Sep 2021 5:41pm
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