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UtilityTruck



Member Since: 09 Jan 2014
Location: Oxford
Posts: 463

United Kingdom 
Just for balance; I used 1.5cans of S50 in the chassis and 1 can of UC to do the outside of the chassis and the wheel arches. I've yet to do the bulkhead- but I'll use the remaining half can of S50 for that.

IMO with 10cans you'll end up with an awful lot on your drive!
Post #322109 7th Apr 2014 1:05pm
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Matthew_Mills



Member Since: 16 Feb 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 152

England 
Had cause to remove a rear wheel today... Got my head under the arch, blimey what a load of mud despite a wash at the weekend, need to do a better job.

Reaching out for quotes now... Dinitrol seems the get the most votes but i will check out others too.

One question, what about using a jet wash post treatment, is the 'stuff' good enough to resist the pressure? Or is it back to a hose?
Post #323991 15th Apr 2014 9:03pm
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micomlab



Member Since: 10 Aug 2021
Location: quebec
Posts: 1

Canada 
ericvv wrote:
Joe the Plumber wrote:
Everyone here says use Dinitrol (at least no one suggested Waxoyl), but I assume none of them have read the July 2013 report by Dr Phil Green from the University of Hertfordshire School of Engineering and Technology called "Assessment of Wax Coatings Using a Salt Spray Cyclic Corrosion Test".

In this, six well known corrosion protection products were each put, at the same film thickness, onto three identical bare steel plates, along with one steel plate left bare, and subjected to wet salt spray testing in a controlled environment. After the time was up, the products were cleaned off and the amount of corrosion assessed.

The results, after 2084 hours of testing in a ridiculously harsh environment, put Dinitrol 3125HS in 4th place, with Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 a comprehensive 1st. There was the barest trace of rust on the very edges of the plates coated with it, whereas the Dinitrol had around 75-80% corrosion under it. Waxoyl was 98-100% rust incidentally.

The test was done at the request of Bilt Hamber, but I can find no hint of any bias towards them in the report. It's all backed up with multiple photographs of the results.

It's your vehicle, and your money, but if you want the best corrosion protection you can get for it, Bilt Hamber is the firm to use, and they're British too:

www.bilthamber.com

If you contact them, they will probably let you have a copy of the report. It's a real eye opener.

It's easy to do it yourself with their big high pressure aerosol cans as they come with 2' tubes with diffusers on the ends to get into all the awkward areas. Peter Hamber suggested to me to use Dynax S50 inside the 110's box sections, and Dynax UB on the exposed surfaces. I'm going to use the UC to protect the less exposed mechanical assemblies too.

Having previously tried various alternatives, I've used BH stuff on my vehicles for eight years now, and wouldn't entertain anything else. And no, I'm just a customer, not an employee (although I ought to be on commission!)

I hope this is of interest.


Joe, surely of interest. Surprised this was never brought up before. But if there is such a comparative test done, with Bilthamber coming out tops, why don't Bilthamer put an easy link to this report on their website? Cannot imagine any better advertising than that, no?
Eric


Great!!! Thanks for this valuable post.
Post #916341 10th Aug 2021 1:21pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
As an update I did my 2007 110 station wagon in 2010 shortly after I bought it. It was ex Spain so apart from mud and dust there was very little corrosion at all.

Working on my drive I jet washed it several times and left it to dry for a week (in the uk summer) I then did all box sections with Rustbuster MIL spec cavity wax and all external areas in Dinitrol black wax.

Have only fairly randomly jet washed it underneath in the last 200,000km and 11 years.

Have just completed a bit of tlc this time with the benefit of a barn and ramp, straightened the rear panels and checked underneath. Apart from a tiny bit of surface corrosion on the rear crossmember between the rail and crossmember and for some reason again slight surface rust on the body crossmember under the rear seat, there is no corrosion at all. All now re treated and ready for the next 11 years!

Used the same products again as I still had unused sealed cans.....
Post #916520 11th Aug 2021 5:15pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
Does anyone do a clear/transparent rust proofing product?
Post #916599 12th Aug 2021 3:53pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2005

United Kingdom 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Bilt hamber dynax uc https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-uc/
Post #916601 12th Aug 2021 4:34pm
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M.J.Persius



Member Since: 03 Apr 2021
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17

Scotland 2003 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Alpine White
mikeh501 wrote:
Does anyone do a clear/transparent rust proofing product?


https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/corroless-cci-4...zontalTab1

Haven't used this product in particular but have previously used corroless stuff and in my experience it is very good.
Post #916834 13th Aug 2021 9:31pm
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