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geostrategist

Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 60

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green

Leaking clutch fluid

2.4 TDCi with 97000 on the clock. Clutch replaced about 18 months ago, so less than 8000 mile on it. I find that I'm having to top up the clutch fluid reservoir with about 20ml of fluid every fortnight. Everything is fine until there is too much freeplay in the pedal movement, and it sometimes sticks on the return. Top up the fluid and its all fine for a few weeks.

There's no sign of any fluid leaking when its' parked, so any suggestions as to what might be the issue?

18th Jul 2021 3:45pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3639

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

if its the master cylinder you generally get fluid in the front foot well. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

18th Jul 2021 4:47pm

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2292

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Get underneath the vehicle, is there moisture/evidence of fluid coming out the bottom of the gearbox bell housing? > 110 XS Double Cab

18th Jul 2021 4:48pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

LR90XS2011 wrote:
if its the master cylinder you generally get fluid in the front foot well.

Unless it is going under the carpet!! In that case, keep in mind that dot4 will eat the paint. No paint = rust.
If the slave is leaking, then it is a box out on a tdci.

I still do not understand why clutch hydraulic is specified as dot4. I hope that neither the master nor the slave reach 100dC or so. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

18th Jul 2021 6:25pm

90 Dreamer

Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2141

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey

It simply most common these days, can't recall the last time I saw dot3......

18th Jul 2021 6:38pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

Indeed, makes more sense to use dot4 than dot3... but both eat paint, in case there is a leak of course.
Hence for my restoration I went for dot5 (silicone based and not to confuse with dot5.1). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

18th Jul 2021 7:10pm

Angus_Beef

Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

Sorry to thread jack, but while we are on the subject: I’m going to replace my perfectly heathy standard clutch master cylinder with a lof power master this week

What’s the best way to drain enough fluid that I don’t make a huge mess in the engine bay, yet also not introduce too much air as to make bleeding of the new master difficult?

ProTips appreciated in advance 🙏🏼 Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭

18th Jul 2021 7:37pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

I think better to drain the fluid from the bleed nipple. Even if there is a small amount of air in the system, you will need to bleed it completely. The positive thing is that you have new fluid all the way. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

19th Jul 2021 11:57am

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