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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485  
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Is your 300 in good health and running standard 1.4 transfer gearing? If so it should pull 5th gear up and down dale without problem? Ive found the higher V8 5th gear with 1.4 or 1.3 transfer gearing to be the best all round combination with a 265/75x16 or equivelent tyre. 1.2 makes even a 5.2 RV8 lazy on motorway hills. I would go with a original TD rad over the fabricated alloy versions |
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9th Jul 2021 12:07pm |
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| Rednaxela Member Since: 23 Sep 2019 Location: UK Posts: 41
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Somewhat further afield than Staffs Mike
 I appreciate everyone's willingness to help, however I don't want to be too much of a burden either.
All stock Linds. Engine mounts - I guess I could find a technical drawing showing exactly where they should be fore/aft and height-wise too. I know that the rear edge more or less lines up with the spring/turret bracing on the chassis but I could do with a bit more precision. I would be getting a nearby fabricator to come over and weld them so wouldn't want to be faffing around with the other technique of lowering the engine to the rough location then getting it out of the way again. Keeping the old 300Tdi mounts is impossible I presume as they would be in the way of the manifolds. |
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11th Jul 2021 10:36am |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 632 
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Rather than measuring the mounts and welding it’s easier to mount the gearbox, support it and then crane in the engine to guide the engine mount positions.
RE 50th manifolds and Y piece - use a D1 V8 post 1994 manifolds and down pipes with cats which bolts straight to the Td5 centre box. Re cats: pre 2002 you can choose to either associate emissions to the age of the engine, or the car. So if you have a pre 1992 engine you can ditch the cats. Ref trans gearbox I totally agree with the previous comment: 1.4 ratio is perfect and the taller 5th makes for good cruising. I’ve 1.4 ‘d two previous V8s, one was a 50th, the other manual. I’m about to do it to another 3.9 R380 combination. JB @Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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11th Jul 2021 5:23pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 485
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If your welder isnt confident welding with the engine in situ you could get a old 3.5 block and just bolt that up to the box for alignment purposes. Ashcroft does the V8 weld on mounts |
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12th Jul 2021 9:47am |
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| Rednaxela Member Since: 23 Sep 2019 Location: UK Posts: 41
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Before I get to that stage, a few more bits to pick out. The two manifolds below are pretty much identical I presume, despite the Discovery 2 4.0 ones obviously being more recent, yet strangely cheaper, I think both sellers are breakers. The older ones haven't had their studs snapped yet, which could play a part in the price.
Some of the holes in the D2 ones look bigger than 3/8 also. Thoughts? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304018726515?ha...SwhSxgt1zs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274783723549?ha...Sw6~xgkBoP Edit - well, obviously the holes are all 3/8. But I've read that the disco 4.0 seemed to use spacers between the bolt heads and each manifold, but they are not used on the p38 tubular headers.  |
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15th Jul 2021 7:46pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Hi Red, Some pics here which I hope helps a bit on what mine looks like under the bonnet so to speak. FYI, my exhaust is a D2 v8 Y pipe with cats (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141604469381) , slightly modified def td5 centre silencer (mod is hanger placement) and then a bog standard td5 rear silencer iirc. The exhuast manifolds are d2 cast ones. I can confirm the manifolds and y pipe fits with no modifications. This is also a 4>2>1 exhaust so maximises torque from what I understand.
 Click image to enlarge Allisport shiny bits. I can confirm that these 4.6 run hot and radiate loads of heat. It sits around 87c and upto 95 when caning it in the sun lately. Having met a couple of guys with v8 defenders, one v8 isnt like another. one guy running a 4.0 and completely std setup actually runs v.cold, greenis 4.6 runs fairly hot with vents in bonnet and fans on perm feed etc, and mine runs hotter than both tbh. no idea why, but possibly lack of vents, its got cats and my headers and down pipes arent wrapped, all of which id recommend. I would also put heat reflective stuff on underside of seat box and floor as being a soft top it tends to suck the heat through the floor via low pressure id think. Click image to enlarge Side tank with RR classic in tank pump and inline filter on chassis rail. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Showing a custom cross member which had to be modified further for exhaust clearance. Proper NAS ones are like rocking horse... Click image to enlarge my headers. |
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19th Jul 2021 7:14pm |
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| Rednaxela Member Since: 23 Sep 2019 Location: UK Posts: 41
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Thanks Mike.
I ordered the Disco 2 manifolds... One small step
When removing the P38 headers, the nearside went a treat, the offside resulted in two snapped bolts. |
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19th Jul 2021 8:00pm |
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| Rednaxela Member Since: 23 Sep 2019 Location: UK Posts: 41
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I removed the heads today, one of the pistons has the classic 'steam cleaned' appearance. The gasket looked good however, as do the surfaces of the head/block.
Perhaps this could be the sign of a crack in the block. However I read that a crack in the inlet manifold could do this also, but is that likely? |
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29th Jul 2021 9:09pm |
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