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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
When the oiol gets to temp, the valve will open and route fluid into the cooler which will (if empty) I guess fill up. or purge the old oil out if you've just done an oil change.

So if it were an empty system you'd have to get it "hot" then re-check the level as it would be low.
Post #911266 7th Jul 2021 6:05pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
tommobot wrote:
I never knew that the oiler cooler adapter was thermostatic....

Does this mean when you fill from cold, its not open into the cooler?

How did you go about fiilling the oiler cooler etc...?


Hi Tommobot.

Before I fitted the adapter I did have a play around with it. Have to, right?!

The valve is a wax/polymer that when heated (approx 75-80 deg C) pushes a metal peg out which pushes the valve closed. It is a low tech item very much like a coolant thermostat. Whilst the valve is open oil is allowed to flow in to the cooler, but the oil pressure by-passes the cooler straight in to the gearbox galleries, path of least resistance. Closing the valve diverts all the pressurised oil around the cooler and then back in to the gearbox.

This is how I think it works, I am sure someone will correct me if not Smile



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I have read that people do an oil change one of two ways:

    Drain the gearbox and refill figuring the oil capacity of the lines and cooler are small enough that it probably doesn't make too much difference when regularly servicing. Run. Check. Refill if necessary.

    Drain gearbox as normal. Crack cooler/pipe union and drain oil. Then refill. Run. Check. Refill if necessary.


The choice is yours... as they say... Thumbs Up
Post #911434 8th Jul 2021 2:35pm
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
hello
thank you for the link. I will try visit a hydraulics place today. I think the dowty/hydraulic sealing ring should be enough. I am very much interested in using as much metal pipe as possible to help with heat loss. The cooler I musing is a Jaguar type not a Range rover. will see what happens. Thanks for the input I hope i get it done soon. the Defender is used solely to pull 2 IBC tanks with water nearly every day Whistle I have the TC deep sump too from Ashcroft so maybe i will put it on too.

(i was always interested in fitting something similar to the Series box but pump has to be remotely installed Razz)
Kind regards
Joseph
Post #911576 9th Jul 2021 8:44am
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
haha Geobloke,

your last post made me chuckle, I had to dismantle mine yesterday to understand how the stat works cos it seemed to be open in all directions. it was a bit rusty so cleaned and lubricated it.

Would the drain and fill procedure be any different if the radiator is installed below the level of the filler plug? i was also thinking about the possibility of adding some filter or magnet trap but that would be too much i think?

joseph
Post #911584 9th Jul 2021 8:59am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Hello Joseph, have you measured gearbox and transfer case temperatures? Usually, more load by itself does not increase the temperature by a whole lot. It is speed that increases temperature as there would be more losses in the gearboxes. Power loss in gearbox will turn itself into heat.
Frankly speaking I would not bother if pulling for short distances, especially at low speeds. Only if you frequently go to mainland Europe where you can hit higher speeds, gearbox temperature could be an issue, where you really need to be pedal to the metal most of the time.

I tow close to the maximum limit of the Defender without issues since it is only a 7-8 mile tow.

Hope this helps. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #911587 9th Jul 2021 9:04am
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I’m looking into fitting a cooler to my td5. I’ve just returned from a 3000 mile trip around the Pyrenees and my transmission was cooking on the long motorway runs.

I’m planning on getting a setrab slimline cooler and fitting it inside my front bumper as it has the cut outs for airflow. I’m planning on towing my penman on future trips so I think it’s a worthwhile investment. It’s likely I’ll get one of the billet pump adapters from either Ashcroft or pioneer, I don’t really need a thermostat controlled cooler as the main use of my truck is for these big trips and it barely comes out in winter.

I will have to keep you updated. I’ll have to have a look at how I’ll route it all and keep it clipped up.


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Post #997544 26th Jun 2023 9:50am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Looking forward to your installation Thumbs Up
Post #997578 26th Jun 2023 1:48pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Post #997617 26th Jun 2023 6:50pm
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Well chaps all the goodies have arrived. I did a little test fit this morning and it’s looking like it’ll all work out. Will try to get it fitted next week. I’m expecting a bit of faff mounting the rad but after that i think it’ll be pretty straight forward.



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Post #998187 1st Jul 2023 3:04pm
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Procta



Member Since: 03 Dec 2016
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 5166

United Kingdom 
that's a neat install! i never knew they did these! i know they did a transfer box cooler sump adapter, as we fitted one to my dads, with him towing. Not sure if it made all the difference, but its another thing for you to add Thumbs Up Just a triangle plate that goes in place of the flat plate. Thumbs Up Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!
Post #998227 2nd Jul 2023 1:52am
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Yes I did look into the bigger sump for the transfer box but in my mind I wonder what the effectiveness is. It sits very close to the exhaust and one of the causes of the transfer box getting so hot could be the gearbox next to it using it as a heat sink. It might be something I add later on though Thumbs Up
Post #998240 2nd Jul 2023 8:25am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
That is a lovely install in the Bowler bumper. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

As for the LT230 extended sump/cooler. It is less about the cooling in my experience and more about the added volume of oil. Especially now there is an overdrive installed. I have heard of people tapping in top the drain hole of the extended sump and installing an external oil cooler with an electric pump. Never seen one, but I can see how it would be possible.
Post #998346 3rd Jul 2023 8:45am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Think that’s a bowler “knock off” bumper? Bowlers have the profiled cut outs with the dimple dies.
Post #998415 3rd Jul 2023 3:55pm
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Its an uproar 4x4 bumper, wouldn’t really call it bowler knock off from the price. It’s stainless.

I have a question for you folks who have used an fittings before. I have m20 to an8 adapters going into the oil cooler take of block but I’m unsure what to fit between the adapter and the block. Joe from pioneer suggested dowty washers however with my adapters the rubber squeezes out where the flats are on the fitting. I imagine he’s using slightly different fittings with a larger flange so it works for him. I got my fittings from torques uk.

I told him my issue and he’s suggested aluminium crush washers however I can’t really see the logic of using an aluminium crush between 2 pieces of aluminium.

My current thinking is use 2 copper washers and some ptfe tape, what do you guys think?


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Post #998694 5th Jul 2023 9:55am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
I used Dowty washers between my AN fittings and the LR adapter. Worked perfectly. As I see it if I were you I would be using some thread sealant;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Hydraulic...&psc=1

and if possible the Dowty washers as well. Should mean you do not need to torque down the AN fitting quite as much and the rubber won't squeeze out.

Be quite generous with the sealant. There are other brands of course.
Post #998728 5th Jul 2023 3:09pm
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