 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Jerky |
 
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641   
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did it exhibit any jerkiness prior to the work DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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8th Jun 2021 8:25pm |
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| Ijk10 Member Since: 01 Apr 2021 Location: Newport Posts: 37  
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Very slightly...thought the new output shaft would remedy it..
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8th Jun 2021 8:36pm |
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| iansaron Member Since: 18 Dec 2019 Location: Livorno Posts: 5  
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I have this exact same problem that started a few months ago so I thought driveline which is all Ashcroft or similar quality. Dealer and Independent verified all perfect, no play or slack anywhere. As it happens most noticeably on a decline, someone in LandyZone suggested the handbrake but that was cool to the touch after long drive so that wasn’t it either. I assume a fueling issue but there are no codes being thrown so I am at a loss and so is the dealership who wants to avoid spending Diag time and not knowing where to start. In second gear high range just driving around and letting off throttle and it is a slow bouncing engine brake pause engine brake pause engine brake pause until it levels out. Incredibly frustrating and the bouncing gets faster when in 3rd gear letting off throttle. 1st gear low descent...forget about it, the bucking was so bad I thought the truck was going to break. Any thoughts??
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10th Jun 2021 10:38am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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The root cause of this sort of jerkiness is more likely to be due to an engine running issue rather than driveline issue (slop in the driveline will amplify any effects).
I would suggest firstly checking for any stored DTCs on the engine ECU, if there are any of significance, address them. If there are no DTCs, I would suspect a fuelling issue most likely caused by the vehicles arch-nemesis, the Volume Control Valve on the fuel pump. Faults with the (excessively fragile) VCV seldom produce DTCs but can cause a huge variety of different running faults under different conditions, there is no single sure way of diagnosing a faulty VCV apart from changing it. Most typically the faults will occur when a significant change in the engine's fuelling requirement takes place, since this is when the VCV "does its thing" and changes the flow to the common rail. Faults often manifest themselves when you accelerate hard, or decelerate, or make a step change in engine speed (eg change gear), since these events all require a sudden change in fuelling. Last edited by blackwolf on 10th Jun 2021 5:20pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Jun 2021 11:14am |
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| iansaron Member Since: 18 Dec 2019 Location: Livorno Posts: 5
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Wow great, thanks so much for the response! Ok so now I will have to look at the VCV and the clutch switch. Seems like lots of people are having a “kangaroo” problem that gets resolved by bridging the clutch switch, but now that you mention the VCV, I’ll have to take a look at that as well although most people with this problem are regarding idle problems and mine is perfect. Any idea on what it would cost to just replace both of these at an independent shop assuming they are able to do the pump learn procedure?
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10th Jun 2021 12:04pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
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You don't actually need to do the pump relearn after changing the VCV, although the manual says you do. The fuel pump/ecu is self learning and will sort itself out over a short period (I have never seen any evidence that the factory calibrated the pump when the vehicle was built).
I'm not sure the current price of a VCV, generally the Ford part is a little cheaper than the LR part, and now pattern parts are available, albeit of varying quality. Do bear in mind however that it is possible that you change the VCV and it doesn't solve the problem. Sadly the only way to rule it out is to change it. If it makes no difference, you do at least have a spare VCV, one day you you are bound to need it. |
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10th Jun 2021 5:25pm |
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| iansaron Member Since: 18 Dec 2019 Location: Livorno Posts: 5
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Great response, will keep the VCV in storage if need be. I’ll try to change the VCV and bridge the clutch switch and hope for the best. Now to go and scour the forum for a tutorial on how to do both. Love being a Defender owner! Will update on the results.
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10th Jun 2021 8:00pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20355
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Clutch switch uses 2 pole Junior Power Timer connectors. All you need to do is make a bridged connection and plug in and job done.
Failing that you can replace the clutch switch it’s self, but on mine I run permanently with it bridged and I prefer it. I prefer it’s characteristics in low range too, it you still keep anti stall active when required. There is further information on here on this I’ve posted before.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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10th Jun 2021 8:48pm |
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| Ijk10 Member Since: 01 Apr 2021 Location: Newport Posts: 37
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Do these issues mentioned above apply to the 2.4 tdci or just the 2.2?
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11th Jun 2021 7:35pm |
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| Mago Member Since: 25 Apr 2021 Location: Frankfurt Posts: 27 
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Well, that´s a very good argument... thanks for that 
The original VCV is made by Denso, the partnumber is DCRS300260. Greetings,  Defender 110 TD5
Defender 110 Puma 2.4 |
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13th Jun 2021 9:48pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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By bridge do you mean short the two wires on the loom somehow? Would plugging in a clutch switch but not fitting it work? As I understand it their default position is 'on' so maybe that'd work? I've just changed mine and it's having an intermittent 'won't rev past 2000rpm' problem and I need to rule out the clutch switch. Thanks. |
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16th Jun 2021 10:13am |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595
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To answer my own question, no that didn't work.
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16th Jun 2021 10:56am |
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