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| alastaid Member Since: 03 Dec 2013 Location: York Posts: 78  
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Jon,
Its a while since I fitted mine, but I remember using the nylocs on the door side of the hinge, the ones behind the door cards, and yes I just took off the 45deg security thingy, as there is no holes, and because you need to re-use the retainer plates on the b pillars, cutting a hole isnt an option. So this leaves the front doors better protected than the rear doors, but happy to be told by someone else I havent done them right, I just needed to get them on quickly at the time as I needed to use the car. Cheers Alastair |
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25th Apr 2021 7:07pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 160 |
I fitted the rest of them today - you can take the top retainer plates out and use the nyloc nuts on those easily enough, although annoyingly the screws are too long so they stick out about 1cm past the inside of the B pillar behind the seat belt, so I'll need to take them back off and cut them down at some point.
The bottoms you could also remove the retaining plate if you wanted - it's a bit awkward but you can get to the back of the B pillar reaching underneath behind the sills. I figured that out after the retaining plate dropped out when I took the old hinge off so I had to figure out where it came from! |
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25th Apr 2021 7:34pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846 
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I've had mine on for a while, so might be a bit 'senior' in my memory....
I have the security plates on the door side of the hinge - to stop the door being unscrewed and swung out - but I can't think what the 45' security thingy is?? I did find that some of the supplied bolts were too long, but not a big deal to fix. I'll have to revisit the driver's side, lower B pillar hinge soon, as i must have used too much anti-seize, and its worked loose. I understand the logic of what you're asking - about the nyloc nuts going on after the captive plate as a security measure - but I just can't see how that would work. Once the long bolts are tight into the captive plate, how would you get nyloc nuts in there?? You couldn't turn the bolt, as it would be tight into the captive plate; and there isn't the room inside the pillar to swing a spanner or socket driver. If I'm understanding you properly. I can see how you mght use the individual nylocs instead of the captive plate. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Apr 2021 8:54pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 160 |
The 45 degree security thingy is the security plate you are talking about (that looks a bit like a golf putter) - you have to hold the hinge at approx 45 degrees, feed it into the gap between the spire nuts then twist it to make it line up...
I think what they intend is for you to ditch the plates with the captive nuts on and use nylocs - with a spanner or a long series socket you can get to the ones in the B pillar OK, but the bottom ones would be a bit awkward. Thinking about it, it doesn't really make any sense to put the nylocs after the captive nut plate as it wouldn't achieve anything - the point of the nylocs and washer is that they spin if you don't have a spanner on it so you can't just undo the hinge from the outside.... |
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25th Apr 2021 9:51pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1846
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I bought my hinges at the last Scottish LR show - which I think was about 2018. Before COVID ***** the world. At this point I don't think Optimill were doing any security plate thing. The one I'm referring to is a small stainless plate that goes on the inside of the hinge bolts on the door. They 'slot' inside the bodywork when the door gets closed and stop it being opened. (I'm sure you've seen them - I'm just unable to post a link on this device)
If you use these, then it doesn't matter what you do at the B pillar - captive nut plate, nyloc, or not. Even if you had these bolts/nuts out, you wouldn't be able to pull the door open at that pillar. Having made my car so secure, I then stupidly locked myself out at the Co-op in Daliburgh last November (if you don't know, google maps it) with 40 mins to go before my next ferry. A bunch of helpful guys suggested unscrewing the hinges. I had to tell them that this wouldn't work because I had the security plates fitted. I did get in, but how isn't for a public forum! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Apr 2021 10:10pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 160 |
Ahh - OK..
On the newer Optimill hinges there's a bit that gets inserted inside of the front B pillar which means it's impossible to remove the hinge without taking the entire hinge away from the door, but only the front B pillar can have these fitted, so on the rears you have to remove them. I think you are referring to the plates that go onto the inside of the doors like: https://www.optimill-uk.com/defender-door-hinge-security-kit.html |
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26th Apr 2021 7:52am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17458 
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The front "B" pillar ... that would be the "A" pillar, then!   |
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26th Apr 2021 8:19am |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 160 |
It's too early on a Monday morning for me to be thinking properly!
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26th Apr 2021 8:32am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17458
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I know the feeling.....
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26th Apr 2021 10:08am |
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