 | Home > Technical > '96 110 Steering not returning to center after wheel change |
 
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| jnglmstr Member Since: 03 Aug 2015 Location: Dorking - Surrey Posts: 14   
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Hi all,
bit of a strange one: I recently swapped my standard steel 7.5x16 wheels with brand new 235x16 tyres on brand new boost alloys. Both came as factory options on a 110 once and both sizes are close (enough) to identical. So one wouldn't expect a difference in road behaviour. WRONG. On the return drive from the tyre fitter, I immediately found the car way more wavy/swaying. After doing a few miles in it, it turns out the wheels will not return to centre on their own. So if I steer by e.g. 15 degrees and let go of the wheel, off I go into an eternal circle. To me it doesn't make sense, but steering isn't my speciality. A few months ago, I did remove a fair amount of slack from the power steering. That improved the (then) drive with the steel wheels dramatically. Could this be related? Where to start troubleshooting? Cheers, R. Last edited by jnglmstr on 18th Mar 2021 5:00pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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18th Mar 2021 4:52pm |
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| jaygti Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: essex Posts: 378 
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I don’t know, but I’d check the wheel nuts first👍🏻 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
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18th Mar 2021 4:55pm |
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| jnglmstr Member Since: 03 Aug 2015 Location: Dorking - Surrey Posts: 14
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lol, I appreciate you're worried about my (or my defender's) general wellbeing but I stood next to the guy torqueing them up. Now I will be a good man and check them as it doesn't hurt anyone, but I'm not convinced this is causing the issue.
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18th Mar 2021 5:02pm |
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| jnglmstr Member Since: 03 Aug 2015 Location: Dorking - Surrey Posts: 14
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>>you don't say what type of tyre you had on or have replaced them with
Michelin Latitude Cross (old and new, I rate them highly) >>or the full size but im assuming a 235 85 16? Correct or what pressure is in them? 38psi all around >>assuming you bought new alloy wheel nuts as well? For sure, 20 of them. >>i would expect a difference in ride and handling with new wheels. >>how did you take the slack out of the power steering system? and what did you try to cure by doing so? Previously I had -15 to +15 degrees free play in the steering wheel which made the drive a bit unresponsive. I fixed that by taking out slack in the steering box (lock nut/hex bolt jobbie) and back then it felt like an amazing fix for what felt like the 'sitting on the back of a camel' ride. |
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18th Mar 2021 7:10pm |
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| davidblythe Member Since: 27 Apr 2019 Location: Cheam, Surrey Posts: 110 
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30 degrees movement in total out of 360 degrees, equivalent to movement between 12 oclock and 1 oclock on a watch, can only dream of that on my 90 and 110
think your steering box is over tightened for the new setup, why i dont know have experienced something similar when i changed all the ball joints and steering rack 1999 90 TD5 CSW 2006 110 TD5 HD Commercial |
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18th Mar 2021 7:27pm |
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| jnglmstr Member Since: 03 Aug 2015 Location: Dorking - Surrey Posts: 14
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I'm not sure you're getting my point. Even with a -1/+1 adjustment of the steering wheel, the thing will not centre. It's highly annoying. I used to have (what I believe) is your situation: tons of free play 'in the middle'.
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18th Mar 2021 7:42pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852 
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is the wheel offset different.... i.e. do the wheels sit further out of the wheel arches?
My logic in asking is that if they are further out, they'd be exerting more leverage on the box, therefore the box might not have the oomph to centre them? (sorry, edit, that's a bit carp. it's not the box that centres) I also wondered about the swivel pre-tension, and maybe that would be affected the same way by wheels set further out from the hub. Many moons ago I went from 7.5/16s on steels to 265/75/16 on alloys, with no real difference at all apart from having to adjust the steering lock, and a smidge more tramlining from the wider tyres. 2nd edit - 38psi all round? Is that what the original wheels/tyres had? I think that LR specify someing like 28/30 on the front. Why that would cause a problem self-centering, I can't think. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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18th Mar 2021 7:42pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1631
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ok not sure on what load you are running but 38 psi all round is rather high unless fully loaded.28-32 is more common and what the army run there's at up front and they set them for full load work.bit again as long as pressures are the same it wont cause your issue.
removing the steering damper is an easy thing to test as well. i suspect your adjustment of the box maybe the root cause assuming all other bits on the underside are ok and nothing is bent or worn out. i suspect a workshop visit is the next step or refitting your old rims to see what that does |
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18th Mar 2021 8:03pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8152 
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when you say removed slack in the box, how much did you turn the screw? 1/8th is a great deal more pressure on the box.
a 7.50 is no where near a 235 for profile contact for any same rim and tyre. i would suggest extra contact pad and too tight a box is reducing the return to centre. is it lifted? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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18th Mar 2021 9:10pm |
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| cradgebank Member Since: 30 Dec 2008 Location: Nottingham Posts: 308 
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I think changing the wheels is more coincidental than the cause of the problem.
Check the two UJ's on the steering column collapsible shaft, they can seize and that can give the symptoms you are experiencing. I recently had an issue where the steering was very ''heavy'' and that was a seized bearing in the steering column. Richard Either a 90, 110 or 130. Discovery 5 |
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19th Mar 2021 7:35am |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 635 
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I’d also check the toe out - 1.2-2.4mm ( if I recall correctly? ) JB
@Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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19th Mar 2021 4:39pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1804  
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IIRC you remove the 'slack' in the box on full lock, so that the box doesn't bind away from the most worn section, if that makes sense!
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19th Mar 2021 5:37pm |
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