↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Off Topic > Drill bit
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10874

England 
Drill bit
It's time i had a drill bit sharpener, so my go to place is here Very Happy

Which one would you recommend and why ?

many thanks

Thumbs Up Clayton.

1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper.
Post #892211 17th Mar 2021 9:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4236

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Bench grinder and learn to do it manually. I was taught by my Dad, a toolmaker, but theres loads of vids on the ‘net. The advantage of this is you can make specials. Need a spot weld drill? Grind one from a twist drill. Need to drill into hardened steel? Regrind a masonry drill. It’s most satisfying. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #892219 17th Mar 2021 10:27pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3480

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Bench grinder. It takes some practice, but once you hone your skill, you will get to grind any shape you want. Not all drill bits are the same. Plus you can grind chisels, center punches, you name it.

I would suggest the best you can afford. And then true your wheels as well. A grinder that vibrates would not give you good results.

My 2c. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #892220 17th Mar 2021 10:29pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17603

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bench-grinders/3890777/

Cheaper version are available. Used with a suitable bench grinder this type allows accurate sharpening of a very wide range of sizes.
Post #892221 17th Mar 2021 10:30pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Or if you have the money go Tormek, T-8 or T-4 with appropriate jig:


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


You'd need to have a lot of dull bits to get your moneys worth.
Post #892240 18th Mar 2021 6:57am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Leamreject



Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa
Posts: 970

Italy 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Fuji White
I use a bench grinder, I can control the shape pressure and heat generated to get the best result for the drill bit. Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do…
2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT
Post #892245 18th Mar 2021 7:28am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Send e-mail Reply with quote
donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
ANother vote for a bench grinder and a few instructional videos.

If I can manage this, then a hands on/practical guy like yourself would have no problem. (I was going to say 'master this' - but that would have been wrong!)

With my grinder, one of the 'rests' has a groove in it to help you get the right angle for drill bits. I'm sure I'm not brilliant at this, but if I feel I'm getting nowhere with the drill, whip it out, a few secs on the grinder, and the difference when you come back to the job is really noticeable.

I've also learnt more over the years about specific speeds for specific metals, and the benefits of lubrication and stopping if things get too hot..... Whistle Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #892268 18th Mar 2021 9:06am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1769

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
I really need to sort my bench grinder out with a new stone, but to get used to it, even an average sharpen can be a huge benefit. In a pinch, I've managed to get a decent edge back onto drills with an angle grinder...
Post #892273 18th Mar 2021 9:11am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17603

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Supacat wrote:
Or if you have the money go Tormek, T-8 or T-4 with appropriate jig:
...
You'd need to have a lot of dull bits to get your moneys worth.


Hardcore tool porn of the highest order! Oh, the palpitations! I think I need to lie down for a bit. Rolling with laughter
Post #892287 18th Mar 2021 9:44am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Hey man maths at it's best when you can justify a 4 figure spend to be able to sharpen a jobbing bit worth pennies. Whistle
Post #892326 18th Mar 2021 12:57pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Rashers



Member Since: 21 Jun 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3564

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Bit off topic, but still drill orientated, what drills do you all buy.

When I used to work on site, 25 years ago, we got Presto HSS drills from the local engineering merchants in Norwich. They were mostly 6mm (for what we did) and they would last for months (we used to drill holes in metal electrical containment). The drills I have purchased recently have been rubbish. In fact, I have resorted to going back and using some of those drills from my past life as the new ones are no good.

Might be worth trying to sharpen some of these old drill bits up. I do like that drill sharpening machine Thumbs Up
Post #892365 18th Mar 2021 3:42pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2238

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I generally use the cobalt bits from Toolstation as cheap general purpose metal bits. I have found their performance and durability excellent as long as you don't get carried away with the speed/pressure.

https://www.toolstation.com/power-tool-acc...l-bits/c82

I am slowly replacing my Dewalt extreme bits with them as required as the Dewalt ones are far too aggressive for thin sheet use in a hand drill.

Despite cobalt bits meant to be more durable than HSS, I find that using a bit of cutting lubricant helps no end.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
Post #892381 18th Mar 2021 4:17pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jaygti



Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: essex
Posts: 388

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
We use hertel drills almost exclusively at work now on small stuff.
6 mm or under get chucked in the bin when they’re blunt. 6 to 10 mm might get ground up.

Generally we just just use carbide drills that are close and then bore to size.



Click image to enlarge


This is an 11mm carbide drill. It’s so fast it’s almost like a hole punch. 2002 td5 90 county hardtop
Post #892387 18th Mar 2021 4:36pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3480

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Carbide is the hardest and will maintain the sharpness for longest, but very difficult not to chip it or break it on a hand drill. So best is to use carbide on a good drill press or milling machine.

Cobalt is also very good, and can even drill hard materials like 12.9 bolts even on hand drills.

High speed steel (HSS) should be adequate for normal use, but some cheap HSS are only good for drilling cheese, or plastics.

And since I mention plastics, I go back to the original topic.. drill bits sharpened for steel/metal is not ideal to use on plastic as they will bite too much/fast in plastic. Drill bits for plastic generally have a flat cutting edge, that scrape the material rather than digging into it. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #892488 18th Mar 2021 9:46pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10874

England 
Thank you all for your reply's Thumbs Up

I noticed in the you tubes that the angle grinders were larger than i have, the 2 i have are smaller, so one works of battery and the other is electric, will these be ok to use ?

Also do you have to have special disc's or as i saw in the tube a pad with a stick on paper disc ? this is all new to me, thank you again Very Happy Clayton.

1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper.
Post #892718 19th Mar 2021 9:55pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums