DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - adjusting steering lock stops

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > adjusting steering lock stops

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey

adjusting steering lock stops

the process for this adjustment looks very easy. Just one query though.

Before undoing the locknut and turning the adjustment bolt you have to measure the gap between the inner edge of the tyre and the radius arm with the steering at full lock. But when you turn the wheel to its fullest extent and let go it goes back a fraction. So is this the point at which you measure or do you have to get an assistant to hold the wheel right at full lock while you check ? I didn't think this would be good for the power steering pump

10th Sep 2011 6:53am

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

You can just pull the wheel by hand. You don't have to have the engine running. I assume you have the font axle on both sides on axle stands.

Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

10th Sep 2011 8:43am

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

thanks roel. I didn't think you needed axle stands. I was just going to check as is. But from looking at your impressive site I'd guess you have just a little more expertise than me, my Workshop manual and my € 20 Lidl Socket set

10th Sep 2011 8:57am

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

I do it engine on and use a bungy cord on the steering wheel to hold it fully left / right. easy that way.

10th Sep 2011 9:55am

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

You shouldn't hold on full lock with engine running for more than 30 seconds.

10th Sep 2011 10:15am

noogles

Member Since: 07 Feb 2011
Location: Brunei
Posts: 34

Laurie wrote:
You shouldn't hold on full lock with engine running for more than 30 seconds.

why?

10th Sep 2011 1:36pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

noogles wrote:
Laurie wrote:
You shouldn't hold on full lock with engine running for more than 30 seconds.

why?

Something along the lines of, on full lock, the PRV inside the box allows the oil to flow past the piston, back into the pump/reservoir, and it can overheat quickly.

Or it could just be that the PAS boxes don't like it...oil seals etc?

11th Sep 2011 7:39pm

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

I thought while steering the su=ystem build pressure to move the wheels when steady there is less pressure build up or equal on both sides. If you steer to full lock the system stays presurized and that is not good.
You can also hear it let somebody else turn the steering wheel to full lock and keep force on it you can hear the pump working hard if the steeringwheel is let loose the noise is gone. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

12th Sep 2011 6:56am

willy eckerslike

Member Since: 15 Jun 2009
Location: North yorks
Posts: 1789

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Keswick Green

Put it on full lock then turn off the engine, you will still be able to move the wheel especially if the wheels are off the ground Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper

12th Sep 2011 8:37am

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum