 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Anti corrosion product lanoguard |
 
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| ginjez Member Since: 18 Sep 2011 Location: huddersfield Posts: 1760  
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We've heard of and used the traditional waxes, sprays and treatments but I recently heard of a product that looked so much easier to use than the more well known products and certainly less messy.
The product I'm talking about is something we will all of heard of but perhaps never thought of applying it to vehicles. Lanolin is a natural waterproofer that sheep secrete to protect their wool from the elements and can be used to protect vunerable areas of your Defender. Have a look at www.lanogaurd.co.uk. I ordered some after watching reviews on Youtube. It arrived next day and customer service is great. |
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6th Feb 2021 10:48am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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I’ve got lanougaurd to go on as well, I’m not a fan of Dinotrol, if i could i would have the chassis off and use a proper two part epoxy coat that’s marine rated rather than the hassle of dinotrol every few years. I picked the lanougaurd as i like wax like coatings that are easier to up without much preparation.
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6th Feb 2021 2:25pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2630  
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I used Fluid film last year
My reason was that it is easy and safe to use, the sheepy smell is strong at the start but does wear off. Its lasted really well including jet washing |
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6th Feb 2021 5:35pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905  
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There are several threads on Lanoguard already, if you do a search.
Best comment I've read.... you never see a rusty sheep!   James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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6th Feb 2021 7:51pm |
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| 8619simon Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: North Wales Posts: 247  
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I used it this year. Put it on last October and really pleased so far. It's holding up well and still dispersing water and crud really well. Easy to put on as the advert says, took me about an hour but comments regards sheep well founded
Given it is relatively inexpensive and super easy to apply I will be making it an annual event. Never did like coating everything in black gunge, this is far less messy and means you can still work on it without getting covered in black crud. |
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6th Feb 2021 11:12pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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^ The layers of black gunge is what put me of Dinotroll, I've seen it and similar coatings start to peel off over time vs temp and impacts. If theres going to be a bigger issue I feel the clearer waxes In varying degrees of colour but all thinner coats (ACF-50, Lanoguard, Bilthambler) give you a far better chance of spotting corrosion and not having to spend days stripping and recoating a system.
Theres also the way that the thicker coating cover all the bolts and fixings that I hate. |
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7th Feb 2021 8:46am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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To be fair, many on here have been using Dinitrol for years and there's no evidence of the problems you're suggesting. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 7th Feb 2021 9:47am. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Feb 2021 9:03am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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My views are based on my experience with them, I would say a professionally applied and prepared system is probably fine when applied by the likes of CSK etc but for Mr the cost vs life of application and the potential pitfalls of such as system make it a non consternation for myself.
For the prices charged for a Dintorol system you would be better having your chassis removed once, stripped, galvanised and / or epoxy coated. Given the life of that could be well over 15 years without any intervention or the cost of Dinotrol every 2-3 years. I’m used to costing things from a life cycle that’s where my view of Dinotrol systems is a no for me. The simplicity of the spray waves makes much more sense for us on the farm. |
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7th Feb 2021 9:40am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I guess, like so many things, it comes down to the preparation. Companies that do this sort of thing professionally have the facilities to properly clean and dry a vehicle before applying the product, which is much more difficult on a DIY basis.
The idea of removing a chassis and protecting it before refitting is great in theory but is just impractical for most people. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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7th Feb 2021 9:55am |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3674 
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Interesting point on the life cycle costing. Never thought of it like that. |
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7th Feb 2021 11:22am |
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| MussEd Member Since: 20 Feb 2013 Location: East Lothian Posts: 354  
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The ease of application of Lanoguard was what convinced me. In the past I’ve Dinitrolled my own truck and had it done professionally. I’ve no longer got access to a compressor and the pro guy is a 120 mile round trip away.
With the Lanoguard I stuck one end up on axle stands, gave it a good wash with pressure washer, stuck the other end up and repeated. Then parked it for a few days to dry and went over it with Lanoguard stuff. In my experience much easier and less mess than the Dinitrol. At the end of the day we all want to stop our beloved cars rotting prematurely, so whatever works for you. I dare say if I lived near Zagato the anti-corrosion guru I’d take mine to him but I don’t! |
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7th Feb 2021 11:39am |
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| Fat Cog Member Since: 19 Mar 2012 Location: Oxfordshire & Devon Posts: 502 
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My last of the line 2016 XS went to Chris Zagato at 100 mile mark & since then annually I've topped up with Dinitrol Coroheat (on Chris's advice) & bathed every other inch in ACF50. I've always sprayed the rear cross member (weekly) with Graphite Oil Spray, I've done this with every one I've owned & it keeps the rust away...period.
I usually re-proof everything in Spring & this time have ordered a Lanoguard Kit as I'm on various other forums including Hymer Motorhome Owners & it would appear to get rave reviews there as well. That said, Wayne the owner at my local indy garage (who fettles my Wolf), Warmington Hill Garage (just a really great garage for older LR's & Wayne is a top top bloke) said when I got my last of the line 2016 "Why don't we just put a galv chassis on now whilst the nuts aren't rusted"...he reckoned in the long run it would save a small fortune in rust proofing & as it was new it would be a fairly simple & quick process... I sometimes wish I'd took his wise counsel now! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains |
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7th Feb 2021 11:56am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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For a full CSK treatment its about £500, a full buzzweld is 2.5k. Given the cost of the buzzweld I can't see why you wouldn't just put a galvanised chassis on or have a good chassis pulled out and galvanised then epoxy coated. Also given it needs done at least every two years or so and its the truck off the road for about a week I can't see the point in a complex treatment. |
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7th Feb 2021 5:53pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2630
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Thought that this might be of interest
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7th Feb 2021 6:24pm |
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