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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

United Kingdom 
Ah I know what you mean now, use the screws for the grille with the plastic inserts at the back OR use these.
In that case I have used the screws so if anyone wants these Allen bolts for their grille they are welcome yo have them.
Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #294550 31st Dec 2013 12:32pm
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andrew_james



Member Since: 31 Jul 2017
Location: Horsham
Posts: 5

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Tamar Blue
I bought a kit for my 90 Hardtop, the VAST90SW.

Regarding the front door hinges, I’m surprised that there are no washers in the kit? The old nuts had a ‘built-in’ washer. Has anyone else noticed this or were they just missing from my pack?

Also, I am unable to remove one of the bolts from my rear cross-member. It’s come halfway & got stuck. (A similar thing happened to one of those on the door A-pillar but I managed to cut off the bolt head, remove the door hinge & then get the clip off.). Any suggestions on what to do about the one at the back as it seems impossible to access the captive nut?

Many thanks,
Andrew

P.S. I love the new SS bolts!
Post #882737 2nd Feb 2021 6:55pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
If it can be wound in and out I normally use plus gas or another penetrating spray on it then wind it in / out till the problem passes, prob mud on the back of the bolt stuck in the threads Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #882740 2nd Feb 2021 7:06pm
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andrew_james



Member Since: 31 Jul 2017
Location: Horsham
Posts: 5

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Tamar Blue
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, not only have I rounded the Torx head, it won’t budge in either direction. It has been liberally soaked in WD-40! It feels from the back as the thought the end of the bolt has just reached the nut. I suspect it’s got a big lump of rust on the end?!
Post #882743 2nd Feb 2021 7:11pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Next option mole grips on the head.

Failing that cut the head off drill into the bolt and with the heat from drilling maybe a ezout can then be used to pull the rest out without breaking the thread. Before inserting new bolt run a tap down the captive nut to ensure it’s clean Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #882744 2nd Feb 2021 7:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17348

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
andrew_james wrote:
...The old nuts had a ‘built-in’ washer....


This style of nut is known properly as a flange nut.
Post #882762 2nd Feb 2021 8:06pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1982

United Kingdom 
Best not to use wd40 as it’s not a releasing agent, use plusgas to soak rusted nuts and bolts as it’s a penetrating fluid, whereas wd40 is a water dispersing fluid.
Post #882792 2nd Feb 2021 10:21pm
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