 | Home > Td5 > low coolant temp/ heat problems |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5724  
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All fairly normal for a Diesel engine to be honest. Try removing the fan completely and doing the same drive.
How free spinning is your fan. |
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20th Jan 2021 6:49pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 970  
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I would have to disagree that this is normal, if goes down on the move (slightly) it’s understandable but at idle it’s not right it would more likely increase.
Does it have a fixed/viscous or electric fan? If everything else is normal and the coolant level hasn’t dropped, I would recommend a new thermostat for starters. Ride like you stole it!! If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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20th Jan 2021 8:03pm |
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| Leamreject Member Since: 19 Dec 2020 Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa Posts: 970
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Just thinking about it, do you know the condition of the cooling system, could you have a blockage or an air lock? I’ve also seen this type of oddball if the impeller breaks on the water pump but normally it would overheat. Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do… 2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT |
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20th Jan 2021 8:19pm |
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| Sicastle71 Member Since: 21 Aug 2019 Location: West Lancs Posts: 128  
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If the outside temp is cold diesels will struggle to get up to temp out of interest is the outside weather chilly and are you using the heater on hot. This will act as another small radiator possibly explaining the drop in temp/struggle to get up to temp.
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21st Jan 2021 9:04am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850  
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My TD5 takes a while to warm up, even worse at idle. A trip on the motorway gets it up to temp but the heat is not that warm from the vents. I feel that the temp drops off when at slower speed i.e 30mph
The flaps in the heater box have full movement and have been checked adjusted when i swapped the matrix I am sure its not as warm as it used to be. I have changed coolant, heater matrix and thermostat. The only thing left to change is water pump. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Jan 2021 9:59am |
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| NineCherries Member Since: 10 Aug 2019 Location: Falkirk Posts: 50  
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Thank you for the replies
Something isn't working as it should as this problem has only became noticeable in the last week. LandyAndy i'm going to try and take the fan off and see if it improves, even if only as an experiment - the fan has a little resistance when cold but move freely. Leamreject it has the factory viscous fan, coolant level was/is fine, no oil or exhaust gases noticeable either. I did think it was a sticking thermostat so it was swapped out two days ago for a genuine landrover one, i think it has made the problem worse 
an airlock is a possibility. Any hints on shifting an airlock? sicastle71 Understood, but only a few weeks ago we had -8c and this problem wasn't there.but yes i did have the heater on while waiting to pick up my wife after work. this week has been +2c at the coldest and my heater and engine temps are still haywire. excossack i think i remember reading a post that you either started or contributed to regarding this sort of problem when i was searching the forum. I have double checked and adjusted the heater flap just in case something had slipped but that hasnt made a difference. The main radiator looks to be in very good condition, still has sticky parts label on it, no leaks, fins appear clear etc heater matrix going my the condition of the connection pipes looks healthy. I was getting acceptable heat through previously (although i was considering a diesel heater as they have came down to a very reasonable price on ebay) I'm going to try taking the fan off and giving it a run - I assume if the engine temp is happier, and i get heat, then my viscous fan has failed. If I still have issues, I'll swap the thermostat back to my old one, maybe i bought a dud. possible airlock? as mentioned above, can anyone advise on getting it to move? I did undo the hoses to the matrix and it was coolant that came out so i assume no airlock there. bleed screw undone and no air, but fluid does not flow out even with the expansion bottle cap off. water pump. - I'll keep it in mind but if everything else doesn't help ill look at changing it, i would expect it to start overheating if the pump wasn't working. thanks for the help so far. Tony |
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21st Jan 2021 11:30am |
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| windy81 Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: North Wales Posts: 311  
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thermostat needs replacing. It's stuck open.
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21st Jan 2021 3:39pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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For my issue I have changed the thermostat twice. OEM and Gen LR item and the same 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Jan 2021 4:13pm |
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| NineCherries Member Since: 10 Aug 2019 Location: Falkirk Posts: 50
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Windy81, that's what i thought too, I've just replaced it with a genuine LR one and its worse. i tested the old one out of curiosity and it was appears to be working
stupidly i did not test the new one as i assumed as i'd bought a genuine part it would be good.
If I had a faulty thermostat the bottom hose from the thermostat would warm up, yeah? Its stone cold even though the top hose, bypass hose and heater hoses get warm. I need to make a locking bar of some sort so i can get the fan undone to give that a test as i worked around it to fit the thermostat. I've got a 36mm thin spanner from my doing bits n pieces on my pedal bikes, i just need to stop it turning. One other question. How can i get the engine up to working temperature as at idle it cools down and driving (even in a lower gear) doesn't do it as, i'm assuming airflow is doing its job and keeping it cool.. I've read leave the car running, from cold, with the lid off the expansion bottle works, I guess because the system isn't under pressure the fluid reaches boiling point sooner?? Tony |
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21st Jan 2021 5:42pm |
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| Paul1275s Member Since: 21 Apr 2019 Location: East Sussex Posts: 80 
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Mine shows exactly the same behaviour since I've had it the last two years.
Gauge never goes above about 1/3rd even when towing in the summer. I replaced the thermostat with a new one which made no difference at all, I tested the one I removed and that seemed to be working fine too! Heater is excellent as long as I am actually driving, as soon as the car sits at idle for a period of time it drops down to just above the blue and the heater gets cooler. 2003 Defender 110 TD5 SW 2003 Caterham 7 2006 Mini Cooper GP |
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21st Jan 2021 6:15pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237 
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Have you verified that the viscous fan has not seized up and is always being driven?
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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21st Jan 2021 6:46pm |
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| NineCherries Member Since: 10 Aug 2019 Location: Falkirk Posts: 50
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That's tomorrow's job. It can be turned by hand when the engine is off. Need to make up a locking bar and remove it tomorrow to see how it acts without the fan..
Thanks. |
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21st Jan 2021 6:58pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481  
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Sounds normal to me. Our TD5 used to quickly loose heat (and our TDCI come to think of it) and with it the heater in the cabin. So downhill runs around ski resorts in zero to sub zero you would watch it cool off fast. The speed of the drop only beaten by my wife and kids whining
 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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21st Jan 2021 9:15pm |
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| windy81 Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: North Wales Posts: 311
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Must be your gauge then. I have heard, somewhere on these forums, that there are 2 senders you can install that fit but 1 is for another Landrover variant that will give you false temp readings. |
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22nd Jan 2021 12:07pm |
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