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Crosslanes



Member Since: 02 Oct 2019
Location: Stafford upon avon
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Baltic Blue
HELP. 2013 Defender 2.2 puma immobiliser fault
Hi all my 2013 2.2 puma is playing up, it cranks for a second then non start immobiliser red light stays on solid, here’s what I have tried
1. Changed fob battery and checked fob is transmitting a signal
2. Plugged in diagnostics and no communication with immobiliser module (every thing else talks ok no fault code in engine ecu)
3. Checked every fuse and relays all good and dry
4. Checked 10as box connectors all good and box is dry and lives and earths all seem present at 10as
5. Can get it to start by flasher battery terminals but back to fault once switched of again
6. Don’t have EKA and can’t reade out the ecu due to non communication with 10as

I’m thinking 10as box fault So I guess my question is there a bypass for the immobiliser side

Thanks in advance Paul
Post #796392 2nd Oct 2019 7:03pm
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MartnH



Member Since: 30 Oct 2017
Location: Nsw
Posts: 28

Australia 
Hi
short answer is no

I had a similar problem with my MY13 110. 2.2 the 10as in my car is the early puma BLACK 10as.

in the end, I have to replace the 10as and upgrade the entire system, inlcuding key fob...and now I have a shiny one like the evoque keyfob (or late puma key fob
Post #798624 18th Oct 2019 11:09am
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 479

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Re: HELP. 2013 Defender 2.2 puma immobiliser fault
Crosslanes wrote:
is there a bypass for the immobiliser side


Honestly, man, even if there was a way to deactivate immobilizer & alarm (and take that car right away Smile ), how could you want us to tell it to anyone on the internet ? Don't you want your Land Rover to be safe ?

Just go to your JLR reseller, prove your ownership + identity and get your EKA code.

P.S. there you're asking very difficult questions while having just 8 posts ... Cow
Post #798648 18th Oct 2019 2:44pm
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Crosslanes



Member Since: 02 Oct 2019
Location: Stafford upon avon
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Baltic Blue
Thanks for all the replies, in my case the 10as was just programmed out for £60 and problem solved for ever then I added a insurance approved cat 1 aftermarket alarm which is a must and off course the factory key chip side stays active. Thanks again
Post #798804 19th Oct 2019 8:08pm
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Crosslanes



Member Since: 02 Oct 2019
Location: Stafford upon avon
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Baltic Blue
Just to add, in our case the fault with my car would not let you communicate diagnostically with the immobiliser or enter the EKA code and after watching the guy reprogram my car in 15 minutes I would not rely on the factory system to protect any Defender
Post #798807 19th Oct 2019 8:13pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 193

United Kingdom 
I've got this fault now (and mines a 2015 with the later type ECU). Its currently stuck on the ramp in a local independent specialists. Before I spend £800 on new ECUs and keys, I'm interested to hear more about the coding guy who worked around it. Who was it?
Post #877990 12th Jan 2021 3:24pm
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wyvern



Member Since: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2105

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
Just a thought - but you dont have both key fobs in the cab at the same time - this will stop the engine starting if they are to close together.

Just a thought and shared experience ..
Thumbs Up Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126
Post #878001 12th Jan 2021 4:04pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 193

United Kingdom 
I've only got one coded key. I bought a spare but they were unable to code it.
It seems as if the ALM has corrupted its software, probably due to car battery going flat. Its now locked down and diagnostics can't see it.
Post #878072 12th Jan 2021 7:35pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 193

United Kingdom 
it looks like the only options are a new system from LR at about £800. or a bypass which deletes the immobiliser/alarm/central locking but reliably starts the vehicle for a lot less. I'm now wondering if fitting an aftermarket alarm alongside the bypass would be a preferable way of solving the obvious weak point. Glad I'm not halfway across the Kalahari Desert hey
Post #878165 13th Jan 2021 10:35am
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