 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fitting Optimill rear door hinges |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845  
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I did this just a couple of weeks ago - 94 SW but I don't think there are any relevant differences?
There's nothing at all difficult about this, just some stuff that's a wee bit awkward. One hinge at a time obviously, unless you have any particular reason to take the door off. I was replacing the door, so they all had to come off. Getting to the 'inside' nuts on the lower hinge is a bit of a pain. You need to get behind the mud shield. Again, I was fitting a complete set of Gwyn Lewis guards, so I had the old stuff removed. Then, because my car is old, and the hinges had never been replaced, I had to use a grinder on the outside heads of the lower bolts. Finally, on the 'strip down' I had to punch out the middle bolts. I think there's a steel bracing plate on the inside of those, and that had more or less rusted onto the bolts. I doubt you'll have those problems. You'll probably need an extra hand to be able to tighten the nuts on the middle hinge. Top and bottom are OK, you can manage them yourself, but middle ones are a bit tricky. Like I say, nothing particulary difficult. FWIW, while I was fitting aluminium hinges, onto aluminium panels (car) and galved steel (door) I did cut and fit PVC 'gaskets' between hinge and bodywork. Not sure any of this helps you...? Hope it goes well. I really like the hinges. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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10th Nov 2018 5:35pm |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4795  
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Donmacn
Thank you very much for the detailed reply, very kind of you to take the trouble.  are you impressed with the new hinges? I have quite a few Optimill bits and I’m impressed with their engineering quality so am hopeful the hinges will be of the same high quality 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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10th Nov 2018 6:38pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 765 
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I have had a full set (F&R) of Optimill door-hinges on my 90 for over 3-years now and they have performed faultlessly.
They remain as good looking as the day they were bought and show no signs of wear whatsoever. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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10th Nov 2018 6:49pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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Hi,
Impressed? Very much. To be fair, the existing ones were completely gone - a huge amount of play there. I've got the whole set to do eventually, but I don't feel there's much point in fitting them until the passenger doors are up to it. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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10th Nov 2018 6:57pm |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4795
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Thanks Litch I must admit I am impressed with the quality of the engineering they produce on all the items I have purchased so far and I was lucky with these I got them at a very cheap price
2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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10th Nov 2018 6:57pm |
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| OldDD Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Ballaugh Posts: 53  
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Merry Xmas!
I have treated myself to a set of rear door security hinges from Optimill. The kit has arrived and looks very high quality but there doesnt seem to be any gaskets that would fit inbetween the door and the new hinges. Is this an oversight or do you bolt the hinges directly to the door without anything in between?? The passenger and driver's door set come with rubber mounting gaskets I beleive..... Thanks in advance |
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25th Dec 2020 8:58am |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
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Look under the foam in the box.
2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html
Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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25th Dec 2020 6:30pm |
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| OldDD Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Ballaugh Posts: 53
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Only the SS security bolts in a resealable bag in the box that the rear door latches came in - Unlike the box that the Passenger and Driver's Door hinges came in - The SS Security bolts AND the gaskets were included.
So, has anyone actually fitted these to a Defender and if so, were they supplied with gaskets in the kit?? |
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25th Dec 2020 6:56pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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As above - I have fitted these to a Defender. I got gaskets for the passenger door hinges, but not for the back.
With the original hinges it's steel hinges onto aluminium panels, and there was no separation between different metals. IMHO a gasket here would have been a very good idea - but then there are so many other places on a Defender where you could say exactly the same thing. With the Optimill hinges, it's anodised aluminium onto aluminium panels - so less of a need for gaskets. However, as I said above, I made up gaskets anyway. Just little bits of thin plastic/nylon sheet. In my instance it was an old 'chopping board'.... If your door and side panels are original I don't think there's a "need" for gaskets - up to you really? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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25th Dec 2020 8:19pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1428 
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Hi,
I've recently fitted a set, without gaskets. (None supplied) Figured that if the original hinges didn't have them, then anodised aluminium shouldn't need them. There's possibly more risk of the door moving with gaskets, with a heavy spare wheel vibrating on the door. I used Weicon anti seize paste (white) on the screws. With the latest style of Optimill hinge the stainless screws go into the threaded aluminium hinge. If they seize up and ever need removing or adjusting, it will be a pain to do, and may wreck the hinge. The paste will help keep water out of the joint too. ASW type, the number after that is the container size.  Click image to enlarge |
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26th Dec 2020 11:17am |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060 
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Same here as above. Fitted mine earlier this year. Full set. Gaskets supplied with the side door, but not the rear door.
Excellent quality parts, but it did seem strange that there weren’t any gaskets for the rear. However , now you mention it, I didn’t check to see if they were hidden under the foam packing! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 1998 Tdi 90 SW, 2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MT´s, Recaro CS´s, anorak, wellingtons |
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26th Dec 2020 12:56pm |
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| OldDD Member Since: 17 Jan 2016 Location: Ballaugh Posts: 53
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Thanks for the replies confirming the rear hinges do not come with any gaskets.
I decided I was not happy with this arrangement so made some today and fitted the hinges. All 3 doors close SO much nicer with the new hinges and look a million times better. I'll post some pictures next week |
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26th Dec 2020 9:52pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025 
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I’ve got a full set on our 110 & had to speak to them on a separate matter before fitting. LR do not supply gaskets for the rear door of a 110 so Optimil don’t supply them either. Great hinges but as said you could do with help fitting some of the rears to avoid scratching the panels.
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27th Dec 2020 8:06am |
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| WhiskyJackR Member Since: 25 Nov 2014 Location: Lizard Posts: 159
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So I fitted a set of these to my late 2013 Defender 90 TDCI today.
Quality of the parts is beautiful. These are the newer security version which have no visible external fastening and the bolt goes through from the inside of the car into the back of the hinge. My top hinge had broken so the door had dropped a little. I took off the spare wheel from the door and started by removing the top broken hinge which was in two pieces. I attached the body side of the top Optimill hinge loosely and tried to line it up with the door, it was off and wouldn't align. I loosened off the bottom hinge and this gave me enough play to locate the door bolts for the top hinge and then nip up all the bolts on the top hinge. I then attached the body side of the lower Optimill hinge loosely. Again the door side bolt holes would not align. I loosened the centre hinge a little and I was then able to align the lower door bolt holes with the lower Optimill hinge. The centre hinge then located perfectly. I tightened the centre hinge and lower hinge a little at a time until they were both seated correctly. The torx 40 security fastener is fine for the top two hinges. For the bottom hinge body side the fasteners insert behind the splash guard above the rear wheel and they are a bit of a pain to get to and tighten properly. In my opinion it would have been better to use a regular bolt head for these. Thinking about the future if and when the door has to come off for any reason, if these two torx screw seize up or decide to be stubborn they will be a royal pain to remove as the contact area is small and access is limited. I coated all of the fasteners with anti-seize so hopefully it will be ok. Fitted they look great and the door is now perfectly level and operates smoothly like it used to Any farther South and I'll need to trade the Defender in for a Landing Craft  |
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4th Feb 2022 9:01pm |
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