 | Home > Td5 > Driver Demand Fault Defender 2006 |
 
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| Huttopia Member Since: 23 Feb 2016 Location: West Midlands Posts: 1972  
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I'd try the MAF sensor again.
Good luck  |
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21st Dec 2020 11:53am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
also have your fuel presser checked shooed be 4 bar
Last edited by dorsetsmith on 21st Dec 2020 2:45pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Dec 2020 12:29pm |
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| MoosiMoosi Member Since: 06 Jan 2020 Location: Graz Posts: 17  
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Thanks for your help.
Will check the MAF again. Probably a stupid question, whats the easiest way to check the 4 Bar of fuel pressure?  |
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21st Dec 2020 2:07pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
have look at link
not easiest but |
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21st Dec 2020 2:44pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 625  
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Did you look into the ECU? Are you sure, it is it is bone dry inside? Board in ECU is protected by some silicone cover, but it is not always 100% on all board, mainly on the board edges the coverage is thinner.
According to schematics in RAVE, there is a header 0291 in the wires between ECU and throttle pedal. Locate it and check for corrosion or any other problem - I have seen this headers coroded and/or melted. Easy to test - try another engine ECU. I have seen broken components inside, some only partially make the ECU unstable/unpredictable. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
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21st Dec 2020 2:58pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Had
Driver Demand 1 Fault on my Defender 2006 two week ago no limp mod no engine lamp and only DTC loge in ecu and clear the thing i have find so far turbo wastegate stuck open by 1/16 and 3.8 bar fuel pump only to 3.4 bar on load fuel presser gauge in post so i can contemn the readings and VDO fuel pump also o rings and clips to over hall the pump as i think me be failing to maintain 4bar with engine running and under load |
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21st Dec 2020 3:17pm |
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| MoosiMoosi Member Since: 06 Jan 2020 Location: Graz Posts: 17
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Hmm just checked my Rave doc & the electrical troubelshooting manual. I couldnt find Header 0291. 
But that would make sense. Do you know where this header is located? Behind the Fascia? Thanks for your help so far to all of you! 
Lukas |
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21st Dec 2020 3:51pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
According to schematics in RAVE, there is a header 0291 in the wires between ECU and throttle pedal. ?
post 2002  Click image to enlarge I couldnt find Header 0291. you will not as only find on 1999 to 2001 td5 defender wiring Click image to enlarge |
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21st Dec 2020 4:30pm |
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| MoosiMoosi Member Since: 06 Jan 2020 Location: Graz Posts: 17
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Ok guys, I think I solved it.
It looks like the problem is caused by the wiring loom from the pedal to the ECU. Thats how I found the culprit: - Ingition on - I deleted the driver demand faults with my Nanocom. - Ignition off - Ignition on - No faults yet in the ECU and no Check engine light in the dash! - Turned on the Nanocom and recorded live data from ECU to an SD card - Then I floored the throttle pedal very slow - No Fault - I then disenganged the throttle pedal slowly -> fault back and Check engine light in the dash. I then downloaded the live data from the Nanocom to my computer. The first thing I did was checking the figures from the graphs where the fault came back on. These are the readings from where the fault came back (I have the newer 3 Poti Pedal). - Pot 1 = 1,190V - Pot 2 = 3,977V - Pot 3 = 4,534V Power supply at the Pedal 5,020V Blackbox solutions says that Pot 1 & Pot 2 needs to add up the to generel power supply at the pedal: Pot 1 + Pot 2 = Power supply 1,190V + 3,977V = 5,167V (+/- 10% to 5,020V) Also Blackbox says there is a tolerance of +/-10% for these figures to match the power supply value. Try to add Poti 1 + Poti 3! 
= 5,724V more than 10% over the 5,020V power supply and thats causing the problem hence limp mode and check engine light. From the Nanocom Blackbox website: Throttle 1 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 1 as read by the TD5 ECU. The voltage reading increases as the throttle pedal is depressed. A fault will be recorded if the sum of the voltages of throttle 1 and throttle 2 do not add up to the throttle supply voltage + or - 10% Throttle 2 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 2 as read by the TD5 ECU. The voltage reading decreases as the throttle pedal is depressed. A fault will be recorded if the sum of the voltages of throttle 1 and throttle 2 do not add up to the throttle supply voltage + or - 10% Throttle 3 volts: This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 3 as read by the TD5 ECU. The 3 Track Throttle Potentiometer configuration is not used on all vehicles and was introduced at VIN Number YA288371 on a Discovery and 1A605426 on a Defender. The selection may be configured in the settings section. Throttle supply volts: This shows the regulated supply voltage for the driver throttle pedal potentiometers. The sum of the voltages from driver throttle pots 1 and 2 at any throttle position must add up to within 10% of this voltage or a fault will be recorded. Then I remebered that the Nanocom is able to set the ECU to the old 2 Pot pedal model. I thought: hey if the third Pot plays up lets ignore it 
So I set my ECU to the old 2 Pot pedal. FAULT GONE! Drove through my hometown without any driver demand fault. To make it bullet proof I turned the ECU back to 3 Pots = Fault is immediately back. Means I need to rewire the pedal to the ECU. I could even say the wire from pot 3 is somehow damaged and does not like any water or snow and this is causing the fault. Does anyone know were I can order the wires or a kit to do the wires by my own? Anyone out there with experience in rewiring these wires?
Hope this helps 
Greetings from Austria, Lukas Last edited by MoosiMoosi on 21st Dec 2020 10:22pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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21st Dec 2020 9:00pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5730 
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You can just make your own loom up using a length of trailer wire as it has enough cores running through it. I can’t temper if I did a post on here when I did mine.
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21st Dec 2020 9:41pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
try martin site admin for order the wires or a kit to do the wires by my own
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21st Dec 2020 9:43pm |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3750  
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Sounds the same or similar problem i had on my TD5,,
Change the loom,, Pedal plug on ebay or similar and trailer 7 core as Andy says, My problem was a component in th ecu, send it away, checked ans has been fine for near 18 months now California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1 Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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21st Dec 2020 9:53pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6611 
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Yes I can supply terminals for both ends, entire plugs, cable etc
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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21st Dec 2020 10:01pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645 
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life was so much easier when cars had throttle cables,
it was never hard to diagnose when one of them was broken or sticking DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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22nd Dec 2020 8:42am |
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