blackwolf wrote:

At the moment my thoughts are self-adhesive closed cell foam, dos the panel think that this would be the best, or is there something better?

jst wrote:

What's the consensus on best value for money sound deadening I can stick the rear seat box of a double cab?

I'd say anything you stick down is only going to cause problems long term. With so many seams in the bodywork, moisture will get in and then once trapped will help accelerate corrosion, unseen until you or a future owner notices a major issue or goes to do some upgrade.


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There's a reason Lotus had a major recall on the Elise to remove stuck down rubber mats in the footwells and bond in new panels to counteract the corrosion.

Maybe, there's a new tech solution that's more appropriate :

"Silentium’s Active Acoustics software can take out 90% of unwanted road noise

Active noise control might seem like a nice-to-have rather than a must-have, but it’s becoming as significant a part of vehicle architectures as the metals and plastics used to create them.

Active noise-cancellation systems, which detect unwanted noise and cancel it with signals broadcast through the car’s audio system, have now become fairly commonplace on premium cars. As well as making the driving experience more relaxing, active noise cancellation systems have a significant role to play in reducing vehicle weight by cancelling noise that would otherwise be controlled using hefty passive noise-damping materials.

Early noise-cancellation systems could tackle fairly narrow frequency ranges and have been good at dealing with predictable noise like that created by engine vibration. But more random sound, such as wind or road noise, is much harder to deal with.

Israeli firm Silentium has come up with a new software package called Active Acoustics, a facet of which is broadband active road noise cancellation. Drawing on signals generated by microphones and sensors to measure suspension movement, the system has recently been introduced by Jaguar Land Rover on the Jaguar F-Pace, Jaguar XF and Range Rover Velar, and it can take noise over a wide range of frequencies, from 20Hz to 1kHz (1000Hz).

Beyond road noise, the Active Acoustics software can be configured to take out a range of unwanted sound from various sources, leaving only the desirable sound. The system can also be used to profile noise, shaping the noise spectrum to a certain level inside the cabin that’s pleasant, comfortable and safe. In that role, Active Acoustics uses the same methods as active noise-cancellation, such as software, transducers and computing power to sense the noises that need to be manipulated.

The noise-shaping technology can add noises that aren’t there but are desirable or emphasise sound that a driver wants to pay more attention to, like telephony, driver alert signals and external sounds entering the cabin, such as ambulance and police car sirens.

Active Acoustics is still an evolving technology, though, with the eventual goal of manipulating every sound in the cabin, especially speech, which is one of the hardest sounds to modify. Although not every sound can be controlled, Silentium is already able to create a ‘quiet bubble’ in space around each occupant’s head. The bubble is a spherical space about 330mm in diameter in which the sound volume and quality can be individually controlled.

One of the first uses of the Active Acoustics bubble was active road noise cancellation, but it’s likely to become even more relevant to EVs, where road noise is no longer masked to some extent by engine noise. Wind noise cancellation using the same techniques is also under development. Personalised audio within each bubble, inaudible to the other occupants in the car, is expected to be ready for production in the next two to three years."

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/technol...-will-love



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blackwolf wrote:

Perhaps some of you insulation gurus could give me some advice?

I will shortly be removing the droopy headlining from my Disco2 to re-upholster it, it has the usual D2 problem of the foam layer disintegrating so the fabric drops. While the headlining is out, I want to apply some insulation to the bare steel roof since another well know D2 problem is that you get a mass of condensation on the roof which then pools and shoots out of the front seat belt upper mounts straight into your lap (or the passenger's lap) when you set off.

It was my plan to apply some form of thermal insulation (noise really isn't an issue) to try to inhibit the condensation. At the moment my thoughts are self-adhesive closed cell foam, dos the panel think that this would be the best, or is there something better?

Many thanks!