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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

United Kingdom 
Does anyone know the size of..
The nut on the negative battery clamp to save me checking?

I would imagine it’s M6 or M8, probably M6.
Is it captive or not and what is the nut flange dia if it has one?

Thread pitch isn’t important - someone might have the ground lead lying on the shelf somewhere.
If they could kindly check I’d be grateful.

I’d like to add an additional ground lug on, only a single one hence my enquiry.

If no one has the specs or anything to hand, not to worry I’ll manually measure up myself.

Thanks. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #871433 5th Dec 2020 1:50pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4205

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
This a bit non commital, but I’m fairly certain it’s M6. I made a new longer stud for mine and seem to recall grinding down the head on an m6 bolt to do it. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #871434 5th Dec 2020 1:58pm
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Stripygitface



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 78

13mm spanner to undo, so i would suggest it is M8
Post #871459 5th Dec 2020 6:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

United Kingdom 
It is is indeed a 13mm spanner or socket IIRC.

Not to worry I’ll take a look tomorrow, it’s no trouble I just wondered if anyone knew off the top of their head.

Will report back hopefully. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #871460 5th Dec 2020 6:55pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
It's an Imperial thread - 3/8". There's not much spare thread though, so adding extra cables is a bit of a challenge. When I needed to do it on mine, I adapted a 5mm longer M6 bolt by grinding down the head to suit - original bolt on the left:


Click image to enlarge
 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #871484 5th Dec 2020 8:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

United Kingdom 
Excellent info LRA. Thank you, yes I did notice there was little thread. I may have to do that as well.

Thank you. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #871488 5th Dec 2020 8:48pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
It's an Imperial thread - 3/8". There's not much spare thread though, so adding extra cables is a bit of a challenge. When I needed to do it on mine, I adapted a 5mm longer M6 bolt by grinding down the head to suit - original bolt on the left:


Ended up doing the same - worked a treat. Rgds.

Chris
Post #871492 5th Dec 2020 8:54pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17352

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Easier to change the terminal on the battery lead to something more satisfactory, in my opinion. I've never understood why LR uses those oddball clamps.

My preference is for this type:




Incidentally I don't think it can be a 3/8" thread because that's a smidge under 10mm OD. Could be 1/4", approx 6mm perhaps, or even 5/16".
Post #871509 5th Dec 2020 10:34pm
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db950



Member Since: 01 Feb 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 560

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
The older battery terminals (ie, the ones that aren’t an M6 bolt with 10mm head) are 1/4 Whitworth, approx 5/16” (8mm) diameter bolt with 1/4 whitworth nut which equates to 13.34 mm, which is why your 13mm spanner doesn’t fit and a 14mm rounds the nut off!! 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html
2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech
Instagram @the110camper
Post #871511 5th Dec 2020 11:06pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
Easier to change the terminal on the battery lead to something more satisfactory, in my opinion. I've never understood why LR uses those oddball clamps.

In this case, I guess easier is a relative term. Making the bolt only took a minute and I've solved its' biggest shortcoming of working loose with a sliver of copper sheet around the battery terminal. Changing the clamp needs a bit more knowledge and ideally, the tools to deal with large diameter cable.

blackwolf wrote:
Incidentally I don't think it can be a 3/8" thread because that's a smidge under 10mm OD. Could be 1/4", approx 6mm perhaps, or even 5/16".

Good point! Having made the decision to change the bolt for one with a metric thread I didn't give it much thought, but 6mm clearly isn't close to 3/8" Rolling Eyes Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #871530 6th Dec 2020 9:22am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4205

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I've just been and checked my original one. 2007 Puma, definitely M6.

M6 nut screws on perfectly.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #871563 6th Dec 2020 1:39pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17352

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
...
In this case, I guess easier is a relative term. Making the bolt only took a minute and I've solved its' biggest shortcoming of working loose with a sliver of copper sheet around the battery terminal. Changing the clamp needs a bit more knowledge and ideally, the tools to deal with large diameter cable. ...


A very fair point!

My main complaint with the original connectors (apart from the difficulty in connecting additional cables) is that I find that they really don't clamp very well. After they've been disconnected a few times I find that you can still twist them on the battery even when fully tightened. I've never really understood why JLR chose to use that type, I haven't seen them on any other make of vehicle.
Post #871570 6th Dec 2020 2:07pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20299

United Kingdom 
They are indeed poor, in the past I’ve found them to cause poor starting but they were actually loose at that time though which was my fault.
It’s be the ground one that tends to be the bigger culprit I find.

So it’s concluded it’s M6 but with little thread which I remember now when I think about it.

So I’ve decided rather than going though the process of modded bolts I will instead change the clamp it’s self.
This isn’t a job I intend to do immediately anyway, so the effort involved between modding a bolt to get a longer thread vs a different clamp is in equal proportion to me.

So that is what I will do, and that will allow a smaller ground wire to be added too for reasons I shan’t go into. I’m sure many of you know what for in addition to the main grounding lead.

If I remember roughly the thread on the standard bolt seems like it sits barely proud of the nut even when tightened.
I thought that threads should sit proud of fixing nuts by a few threads when tightened?
It is after all a fairly critical part of the whole system!

On a different note, I saw on other posts some of you changed the battery clamp bolts to short ones. So they don’t sit so high up towards the terminals.

It does seem a bit of an odd battery clamp arrangement both the battery clamps and battery post clamp mech. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #871863 7th Dec 2020 9:15pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Guess it's another case of cost saving by JLR... My 25 year old battery terminals have absolutely no problem clamping tight up to the batteries. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #871885 8th Dec 2020 12:12am
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