 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Extended side tank |
 
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1039   
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Cheers Jst
I'm going to use it as a feed for one of the webastos as the bottom of that tank holds a fair few litres |
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4th Dec 2020 10:52pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8008  
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Far better solution! Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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5th Dec 2020 6:34am |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1039
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It looks like the aux tank may have been for a different model, but i'll overcome the gremlins
The output is 68mm ID, the main tank is 60mm....there's the first issue, but i've ordered a 70mm ID pipe and i'll have to space the main tank inlet to match, not perfect but both outlet from the aux and inlet to the main touch it's that close in there! The brackets on the tank mean nothing and line up with nothing, so i've welded some bigger tabs on at the bottom of the tank and i'll fettle the top ones once everything is lined up...which is the next issue. The outlet from the aux is to far back by about 30mm which means the entire tank will have to sit 30mm forward for everything to line up, but it's no real biggy, it just looks slightly odd. I've extended the breather pipe up to the top of the aux and reduced it down to 10mm ID to connect to the aux tank, then gone from there down the back of the aux. I've kept the pressure release valve above the aux so no chance of any fuel being pushed out when both tanks are full. I've replaced the fuel lines with new original from the tank to the new filter housing and filter. Is there a way to prep the lines for starting as they're going to have air in them. I'll fill up the filter with diesel but is it likely to be nothing the engine won't sort out itself? I'm thinking it'll be fine, but best to ask. the distance from the filler neck inlet to the body work is about 40mm, it's close. I'll come up with a way of cutting down the original filler neck with the locking cap and fitting it all together. |
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5th Dec 2020 1:02pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025 
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What did you make of the safari equipment tanks? I’m thinking of the 120L main tank & a 56L sill tank, we have lots of the Safari Equipment stuff & like the quality. |
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6th Dec 2020 10:26am |
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| nosnibod Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: West Midlands Posts: 370 
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The quality of the tanks is great but the instructions are quite literally non-existent - you have to figure it out for yourself.
Also, the additional fittings aren’t great and they seemed to supply additional rubber hose that appeared to dissolve when exposed to diesel - which I found out after a the first full fill and 50 miles away from the workshop. I ended up racing back there whilst Ian at IRB made an emergency trip to Screwfix to buy loads of buckets for an emergency decant of over 150 litres of fuel. Funny now but it wasn’t at the time - Ian just couldn’t believe that they’d supplied such poor rubber hose. So my advice is to buy quality fuel-grade hose before fitting the tanks - you need some for the breather and some smaller diameter for the balance pipe. Fitting the wing tank is the most difficult part - it needs the existing fuel filler cutting down and it’s quite a faff lifting the tank, adjusting the filler, lowering the tank and generally trying to squeeze it all together. Fitting the main pipe between the main and wing tank is also a fiddle - it’s finger-tip stuff. Now the good stuff! I ordered the stainless ones with a double-skinned bottom because you lose the tank guard/cradle - the quality of the tanks themselves is first class and if were going down this route again I’d order the exact-same tanks. Some things to take note of. Make a hatch in the load bay floor so that the fuel pump is easily accessible. You really don’t want to have to mess with the tanks after you’ve fitted them. You can fit the offside rear mudflap if you trim the top of the mudflap bracket to match the wing tank angle. My Td5 didn’t have anti-roll bars fitted, but if you did want to fit them you’ll need spacer blocks to lower the rear one to fit under the tank. We routed the balance pipe through the anti-roll bar bracket and sheathed it in convoluted tubing to protect it. The main tank is already equipped with the fitting so no need to drill holes etc. If you don’t use the balance pipe as intended you’ll lose about 30 litres capacity. And finally there is a proper drain plug in the main tank. Dave Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi |
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6th Dec 2020 11:20am |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
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Thanks for the great reply, so thinking of these two both stainless.
https://www.safari-equip.co.uk/tanks/fuel-...steel.html https://www.safari-equip.co.uk/tanks/fuel-...cletype=12 |
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6th Dec 2020 11:47am |
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| nosnibod Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: West Midlands Posts: 370
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That first one you listed is a sill tank, not the fill-through one that we used. For a sill tank you have an extra filler and also need a fuel pump to transfer fuel to the main tank.
Safari Equip refer to them as arch tanks and the one I used was this https://www.safari-equip.co.uk/tanks/fuel-...steel.html. The double-skinned bottom is something they can do as a custom option. Whichever option you go for, be prepared for some fun at the petrol station. Most fuel pumps cut off at 100 litres and I found most automatic ones won’t allow you to use the same credit or debit card twice in a row. My local petrol station got used to me and would reset the pump when I nodded to them. Dave Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi |
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6th Dec 2020 12:04pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
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Hi Dave, why did you go for the arch tank over the sill tank? I’m thinking sill tank as my build in a long range camper ( pop top rear living etc)
We have a 60L fresh water canister system on the o/s so the 50+ n/s sill tank would balance her out a touch. Jim. |
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6th Dec 2020 12:27pm |
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| nosnibod Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: West Midlands Posts: 370
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I went for the arch tank because it’s simple to use - in effect you just have a 160-odd litres of fuel in one go. No need for pumps or separate fillers and in theory easier to manage. I was going to fit a water tank in the left hand side arch but never got around to it before circumstances changed and I swapped the Td5 for a Puma.
If you go for separate tanks there is the major advantage that if you pick up contaminated fuel you may be able to drain off the bad stuff. I balanced that concern with the fact that the Safari Equip tank has a drain at the lowest point anyway, so water or other nasty stuff could be filtered off that way in the same way that the fuel filter works. One of the odd side effects of the arch tank and the extra large main tank was that the fuel gauge didn’t move off ‘Full’ for around 450-500 miles, which meant that for most of the time you knew how full the tanks were based on mileage. Remember that the 110L tank sets the fuel pump much lower down - the tank is much deeper - and so even with just the main tank I think you’ll have the gauge showing Full for probably 250-350 miles. If I were going for a sill tank from Safari Equip I’d be tempted to source my own fuel pump, hoses and so on. Once bitten... Dave Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi |
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6th Dec 2020 1:00pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
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Thanks for another detailed reply Dave, think I’m going down the sill tank route with upgraded hoses & fuel pump as per your advice.
Thinking about it I’ve got a few things going on under the o/s arch ( grey waste outlet & shower point feeds) What have you fitted to the Puma regarding bigger fuel tanks? Jim. |
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6th Dec 2020 1:33pm |
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| nosnibod Member Since: 15 Aug 2007 Location: West Midlands Posts: 370
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Nothing done to the Puma - circumstances changed so we didn’t need all that capacity anyway. The Puma is also being replaced with a long-term project Ian at IRB has been working on for me.
No room under the sills on that one anyway - air suspension gubbins and gearbox cooler taking up all the room... Dave Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi |
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6th Dec 2020 1:40pm |
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| Timcat Member Since: 20 Jul 2016 Location: Rugby at the moment Posts: 1025
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Does some nice work does Ian...
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6th Dec 2020 1:49pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8008
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i have the arch tanks; fuel on drivers side and front runner water on the other on my 110, works very well. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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6th Dec 2020 2:57pm |
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| walfy Member Since: 29 Aug 2007 Location: Frome Posts: 2658
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Thats exactly how I feed fuel to my Webasto. I think there is approx4L of fuel below the outlet, so should see a Webasto run for several days before running it dry. 110 D250 SE HT 110 USW SOLD RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD |
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6th Dec 2020 3:44pm |
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