 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Injector Removal |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17378   
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You shouldn't need to prime unless you allow air to enter the system downstream of the combined LP/HP pump.
There are many cleaning kits available online, for example https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0183S...&psc=1 These will have a bung to put in the hole to stop crud falling in the cylinder. A decent seat cutter will have a pilot which does the same job, but most reputable manufacturers such as SP recommend taking off the head. Of course nobody does that Inthe real world. If you get the injectors serviced you will probably need to recalibrate them, which requires a diagnostic tool. If you don't get them refurbed make sure you know where each one came from or the same applies. |
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6th Oct 2020 12:44pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300 
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I did this job a couple of weeks ago. No need to reprime as you are disconnecting after the fuel pump. It will sort itself out on turnover when you're finished, just cranks for a few seconds before the injectors get fuel and starts.
Writeup here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic53240-120.html > 110 XS Double Cab |
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6th Oct 2020 1:06pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638  
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Handy tip from an indie workshop: add a bottle of 2-stroke oil to your tank and drive it for about a week, this will make the injector removal a lot easier
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2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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6th Oct 2020 1:11pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69  
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Thanks for your replies folks, I had planned to scribe them and return them in their correct order. Do I need the injector learn function even then Blackwolf? I have access to a Nanocom, but have only done a few jobs such as recover the EKA and train in a few keyfobs. I understood if I had my own set reconditioned and returned them in the correct order they would not need learning in? @Hank, I fill probably have the injectors disconnected for a week. MY fear is air will be seep into the system backwards through the pump I would probably be unlucky for the system to loose prime even at that time frame. I am off now to read through your write up. And thanks Naks, I will pop in some 2 stroke oil first thing tomorrow!
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6th Oct 2020 7:56pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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That write up is very helpful Hank, did you use the cutting head as a bung to block the injector hole when you were cleaning out the main bore?
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6th Oct 2020 8:14pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282 
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When I did mine originally I didn't bother putting a bung in the hole as I didn't remove the rocker cover. The cheap set I bought seemed to catch most of the crud and then I used a hoover (small diameter pipe taped onto main pipe) to ensure it was all clean before putting everything back.
If you do struggle with air in the fuel line afterward, although you should be fine, it's quite easy to prime the system with a bulb or small hand pump. After doing any work with the fuel system on these I'd always recommend doing a pilot learn etc. in the correct order to ensure the ECU knows where it's at with each injector. In fact I often do it at service and it seems to magic away some of the diesel rattle that appears over time Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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6th Oct 2020 9:50pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17378
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Do be honest I don't know if getting the injectors refurbished will alter their individual characteristics to the extent that they'll need recalibrating or not, but I would think that it was highly likely that it will. I have no doubt that the engine will run, but possibly not as well as it could. I would however always recommend that they are put back in their original positions. |
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7th Oct 2020 9:21am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300
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I can never get the injector learn to complete. Always get "Learning not completed status = 80" "...status = 88"
The cutting head picks up most of the crap, and the pilot stem theoretically prevents anything falling into the bores but I gave them a good blow out with compressed air and also a hoover for peace of mind. Yeah I see what you're saying on air seeping back. Give it a go and see how you go I guess. Could get some threaded bungs to seal the system up in the meantime? I don't know the thread though. Might be worth contacting dorset smith for one of his hand primers... See here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70331.html or I've read about people charging the fuel tank with compressed air to bleed it, though I have no experience of that and don't know whether it can cause issues elsewhere? > 110 XS Double Cab |
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7th Oct 2020 10:46am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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I am thinking of just removing the injectors and replacing the seals at this point. The diesel leak I have is in line with what I have read on the forum. If it fails to work I will just have to do it again and send them off for refurb on the second occasion. It will be mid next week when I get at it. I will take pictures for posterity!
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7th Oct 2020 8:38pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300
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Definitely clean up the seats while you're there. I did mine too many times (twice by mechanics, twice myself) and could not get a seal until I cleaned the seats. The tool is cheap enough on amazon/ebay etc > 110 XS Double Cab
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8th Oct 2020 12:55pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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If you get injector learn issues make sure your clutch switch is working properly, the ambient temperature is in range and the fuel temperature is in range.
I once had the clutch switch bridged as it had started to fail and the learn wouldn't complete because one of its pre checks is that the clutch is released. I find it easier to do both sequences in the summer, in the winter it can be very easy for the intake temp to drop below allowed levels quite quickly even after a run which can make it fail. Edit: Forgot to say that a proper diagnostic tool from a garage or a Nanocom could not identify the failure when the clutch switch was bridged it just gave an error code and stopped. I plugged in the free ForScan and it told me straight away the clutch was depressed and it could not continue. I always use the ForScan now as it just gives much more plain English info. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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9th Oct 2020 6:55pm |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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There is a status light to check the clutch switch output somewhere in the Nanocom. I saw it there though can't remember what menu. You wouldn't think it would effect the injector learn function however! Very useful information, I see some others were having trouble completing the sequence. Any of these things might have been the issue. I fit second row door hinges today. Still waiting on some bits. I am going to change the seals and not send them for recon and see if it cures the leak. I hate to go near it. The thing is running like a clock.
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11th Oct 2020 7:40pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5808  
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When would you do this job? What signs do you see? Or is it based on KMs and ‘good practice’? Does the post-cleaned valves make the engine run noticeably better? If so, how? Smoother, quieter, cleaner, etc?
Just wondering.... Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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27th Nov 2020 7:40am |
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| Moffett Member Since: 08 May 2018 Location: Sligo Posts: 69
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I had a diesel leak onto my rocker cover that I couldn't trace. I brought it to a mechanic who suggested the injectors might be leaking back excessively. I opted to remove them myself to save money. Testing revealed the injectors were all within spec and not leaking. I think the issue was with the oilyseals on the rocker cover and nothing else! You might be able to replace these without removing the injectors, but I don't believe it would be easy to do. The injector seats were coked up with carbon and there was evidence of leakage on 2 and 4. I cleaned the seats and replaced the copper washers with quality items. I ran it for a week and changed the oil and so faryI am leak free! To be honest, there were no symptoms beyond the wet rocker cover. It was running and driving beautifully and thankfully it still is. My fears of loosing prime were unfounded, it did naturally take a few extra turns to start as the injectors had been out of the vehicle for one week. I was glad that I didn't have to complete pilot learn etc. as I have read it can be tricky to complete. But the Nanocom usually works, just a question of learning how to use it. I will cross that bridge when I get to it! I hope that answers your question. I would have left well enough alone but a visible leak like this would fail the roadworthiness test in Ireland.
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27th Nov 2020 10:33pm |
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