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Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

Overheating in 6th gear going uphill (SOLVED)

So this has been going on for a while and after spending £££ and looking at different things without success, I kind of just left it hoping it would go away if I didn’t use it for a while...but naturally it didn’t!

So now I’m really trying to fix it!

PROBLEM
When in 6th gear, especially accelerating going up hill, the temp gauge suddenly rises quickly all the way into red and the fuel then cuts out for 10 seconds while the temp goes back down. Then the fuel kicks back in and it keeps on going. Around town driving is fine.
I’m also losing some coolant but this is only from the cap.
This started out of nowhere. Just one day I felt like I had run into a strong headwind but after a few seconds it was fine. Then it happened more frequently and I noticed the temp gauge going up. Now it happens every time your accelerate hard in 6th.

WHAT I KNOW
Generally the running temp stays within the normal working parameters- until I accelerate in 6th gear. It doesn’t happen in any other gear. There are no fault codes. I’m not sure if it my imagination, but when I change into 6th it feels a little sluggish.

WHAT I’VE DONE SO FAR
- VCV Replaced (last 12 months)
- New MAF & MAP (last 12 months)
- New oil cooler (2 months ago)
- Cleaned MAF & MAP (today)
- Added 2 shots of Millers to full tank of super. (Yesterday)
- New air filter (k&n) (last 12 months)
- Chem-tested the coolant tank to see if there’s gas escaping and its clean.
- Replaced the coolant cap (I’m on 3rd one this year. Now have the Ivenco one)

I’ve also spent what seems to be hundreds of hours looking at the entire internet to try and work out what this problem is. I now know I’m not the only person who has it but I just can’t find a fix!

WHAT I WANT TO DO
- Check the turbo thing! I saw a video about how the arm should move freely so I’m going to look at that tomorrow. If anyone can tell me how to take those very small clasp things off, that would be handy

CONSIDERATIONS
- Maybe replace the air filter to paper. I read that the oil for k&n can be an issue.
- Change the thermostat to one that opens at a lower temp.

If I’m honest I’m not super handy around cars but I do have a tool set and every kind of spray and grease available so as long as something isn’t too complicated, I’ll give it a go! I don’t really want to keep taking it to the garage for it to not be fixed which has happened a couple of times now.

If anyone has an useful tips or ideas what this could be then please let me know!

Last edited by Greyman110 on 23rd Jul 2021 6:59pm. Edited 1 time in total

4th Nov 2020 5:34pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17361

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Have you tried replacing the cylinder head temperature sensor?

4th Nov 2020 6:49pm

shropshiredefender

Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

As above - the CHT sensor will protect the engine from overheating by cutting the fuel supply momentarily giving the impression of a fuel problem and throwing no fault codes. Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.

4th Nov 2020 7:33pm

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

I came across that today in a post somewhere.

I'll do that one and see. I thought I saw someone say you needed a special tool to remove it?

I did clean it off today as it had a film of oil on it - If its the one that sits at the back of the engine bay by the injectors that is

4th Nov 2020 7:45pm

shropshiredefender

Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

From the Workshop manual.
"Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) Sensor
The CHT sensor is located at the centre rear of the cylinder head (transmission end). The sensor measures the
temperature of the cylinder head and not the temperature of the coolant."

Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.

4th Nov 2020 8:46pm

Disco_Mikey

Member Since: 16 Nov 2014
Location: Dundee
Posts: 531

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

Replaced a few thermostats for sticking shut, causing it to overheat

Easy to test too

4th Nov 2020 8:50pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8018

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Does it need a special tool? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

4th Nov 2020 8:51pm

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1913

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

No special tool, but what I did was cut a slot in the socket which made it so much easier
On mine the temp needle would rise slightly when cold 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

4th Nov 2020 9:00pm

Preston110

Member Since: 04 Nov 2020
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 7

Exact same thing was happening to my defender 110. Was the coolant, crack somewhere in the system and it was leaking away and causing it to do the same thing.

4th Nov 2020 9:04pm

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

Disco_Mikey wrote:
Replaced a few thermostats for sticking shut, causing it to overheat

Easy to test too

How would you test to see if its working properly?

4th Nov 2020 9:08pm

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

I can't find any leaks in the system by looking but im not losing coolant unless I hit the 116 degree mark.

With the old coolant caps I could often hear them hissing after a run.

4th Nov 2020 9:14pm

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

Looking over the engine this morning, the radiator looks like it was replaced when the inter cooler was fitted by the previous owner.

When I unscrewed the coolant cap, the system is still pressurised from when I drove it yesterday. Is that a potential issue?

5th Nov 2020 10:24am

captain slow

Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: Herts
Posts: 355

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Corris Grey

Have you checked your EGR valves? 2.2 Tdci 110 XS CSW Corris Grey
Prince Harry's D3 (gone but not forgotten)
300 Tdi 110 CSW (gone but not forgotten)

5th Nov 2020 10:33am

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

Egr was blanked off and removed when it went to have the maf and map done. It’s always been off but I had it done properly.

5th Nov 2020 10:58am

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

Could this be the issue....

After driving the car and getting up to temp I felt the radiator. It’s hot to warm across the top and cold everywhere else.

What do we think?

5th Nov 2020 11:32am

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