 | Home > Technical > Drive Shaft issue |
 
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| bodelafela Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Brisbane Posts: 18  
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My 2016 Puma lost all drive
And just make metal on metal sounds So a mater of mine who is a mech pulled a shaft apart to find it’s all worn out I’ve since learnt that this is a common issue Some have recommend a Ashcroft replacement and I believe there is also another one So far I’ve only found this available in Aus https://4wdindustries.com.au/products/mt82...8695308334 Could anyone let me know if this is a good buy / fit for purpose I’m desperate to get the vehicle back on the road again Also does anyone know how to take that big Nut off My mate was saying it would need some special tool thats like $700 Pics attached |
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1st Nov 2020 8:54am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3410  
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I cannot open the link, but what I understand is that the adaptor shaft between the gearboax and transfer case is worn.
When I did mine, I took out the bolt of the mainshaft and drilled a small and shallow v shaped hole to center the puller. Then as I was trying to connect the puller, the female coupling simply fell off. But mine is also on the 4th adapter shaft, first 3 were genuine. But I hear that that the female coupling should be quite tight on the gearbox mainshaft. If you are replacing the coupling anyway, can weld a bar across and make your own puller from a hefty bolt. But if you do any welds, be careful. I hear that it is safer to disconnect some ECU connectors as well as the battery. Edit: adding link to other thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59735-240.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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1st Nov 2020 5:23pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 618  
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Mine was incredibly tight. I ended up having to weld a thick steel bar across the front of it with a 5/8 nut welded to the bar to accept my slide hammer. Even with the large slide hammer it took a lot of effort to remove it - various pullers I have wouldn’t touch it.
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2nd Nov 2020 1:22am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 
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the 4windustries looks like the Ashcroft one
if you search on here there is a bit of info on the LOF one and a lot of info on the Ashcroft. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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2nd Nov 2020 6:50am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17352 
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The Ashcroft Transmission logo is actually clearly visible in the photo! The tool that Landrover says is needed is this one: 
The purpose of this tool is to lock the female part of the coupling against rotation and protect the gearbox whilst the centre bolt is loosened or tightened, however most people simply seem to put the box in gear and hold it that way (provided that the box is still bolted to the engine) and although this is not good engineering practice there doesn't seem to be any evidence that it causes premature gearbox failure. It is also worth noting that the original Ashcroft kit used a modified genuine Landrover female part, but now I believe Ashcroft Transmission manufacture their own parts and the new kits do not have the slot that the Landrover tool engages in, so the tool cannot be used when fitting the Ashcroft kit. The female part of the coupling should be a press fit on the back of the gearbox (somewhere around S7/h6 for the technically minded), so should require a puller to remove and for the new coupling to be heated before being fitted. There have been several people who have reported problems fitting the new coupling cold and trying to pull it on with the centre bolt and washer, which has caused the washer to fail or, worse, the threads to strip. If a new coupling is loose there is probably wear on the output shaft and a judgement call is needed as to whether the gearbox should be replaced. It should be obvious that overheating the coupling is bad, since there is not only a risk of altering the temper of the part but also damaging the gearbox rear oil seal when fitting. This thread may also be of some interest: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40250.html Bear in mind that if you use a slide hammer to remove the old part, or a hammer to install the new on, that you are actually hammering your gearbox bearings, and ask yourself if you think this is a good idea. A puller to remove the part will not load the bearings at all, and heating the part to fit will significantly help installation. (Edited for typo) Last edited by blackwolf on 2nd Nov 2020 3:51pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Nov 2020 9:57am |
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| keef9t Member Since: 13 Mar 2016 Location: manchester Posts: 170 
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You are correct, in that the Ashcroft Shaft does not have the slot in the female part of the coupling. A shortcoming in my view. Before I set about replacing my adapter shaft, I went to the expense of acquiring the special tool, that Blackwolf mentions above. It did make the job easier.
Unfortunately, I couldn't use it during re-assembly and had difficulty stopping the transmission turning whilst tightening the centre nut to the correct torque. When I spoke to Ashcrofts they suggested using an impact gun. Not much help to me as a DIY mechanic without one. |
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2nd Nov 2020 3:32pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3410
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I have tightened the nut on the mainshaft to 180Nm without any issues. I just put the gearbox in 1st gear.
I doubt that 180Nm would do any harm to the gearbox. Keep in mind that the engine can generate 360Nm, so if you floor it on 5th gear, 1:1 ratio, the gearbox can see 360Nm. Lower gears can transmit higher torque on the output. Just a warning to the guys who are doing this.... if the assembly is an interference fit, as it should, then always torque the bolt to say 50% more, then undo it again and re torque to specified torque. This way you are sure that the female coupling (as in this case) is fully bedded against the bearing race. If you do not do that, you can end up having too little preload on the coupling, and wear the mainshaft splines (I inherited that problem from previous owner). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Nov 2020 5:15pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3410
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Another warning.. if you need to weld something to the female coupling to assist in removing it, then connect the earth of the welder to the female coupling itself, otherwise the currents will go through the bearings, potentially 'welding' the balls to the races which would lead to premature failure. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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2nd Nov 2020 5:17pm |
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| bodelafela Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Brisbane Posts: 18
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So much great info
Ill see if I can do a bit of a video or photo slides when I get the part and go about fitting it |
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2nd Nov 2020 8:54pm |
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