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Suki

Member Since: 12 Oct 2020
Location: Essen
Posts: 3

2002 Defender 110 2.5 TD SW Sumatra Black

Rear body floor removal

another question regarding my TD5 110. I would like to remove my rear body floor/loading floor. i managed to remove the second body floor. there were just screws and rivets. the part over the mid crossmember the one that is connected with the rear seatbelt was screwed with a mix of rivets and some kind of strange screws. the same screws that were used all over on my rear body floor. Dont know if they look so strange because of all the paint that were used over the last years. They have black slighty rounded heads without a notch and on the other side lock nuts, full of paint and bitumen. impossible to work with a wrench. I used an angle grinder /flex to cut the screw heads, for the first 4 it was already a pain in the ass and there are stll 30 or so to go. Any idea how to get them out? Drill them out is impossible because of the slightly round heads. flex them from the ground is also impossible to manage. any idea what kind of screws this is and how to manage the whole rear body floor project?

Click image to enlarge

15th Oct 2020 10:30am

donmacn

Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

I think they might be called 'huck bolts' - a type of rivet, but much stronger and more structural than a 'pop rivet'. If you google them you'll get an idea what you're dealing with.

I think your only option will be to grind them out carefully and then tidy up the remnants once the floor has been lifted.

When I did mine, I had the same issues. I did consider how to replace them during the rebuild, but in the end just went with 'pop rivets'. At the end of the day, the fixing itself might be stronger, but the surrounding aluminium itself is exactly the same. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

15th Oct 2020 12:19pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

Huck bolts are a steel head and shank that is pushed through a hole from the head side. A collar is then shoved into the shank and a tool is used in a similar way to a pop rivet, but instead of the steel section of a pop rivet expanding the rivet before the stem breaks, with these the stem is used by the tool to grip and as it is tightened the tool is pulled toward the head and it crushes the collar on to the stem and it grips. Then the stem breaks and it leaves what you have. The easiest way to remove is if you can get to the aluminium collar. They are not super strong and you can cut them with a chisel or if you have a super strong grip, very sharp pincers.

15th Oct 2020 6:19pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70508.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

15th Oct 2020 6:30pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

Just a couple of points. The steel section of a Huck bolt is obviously much stronger than the head of an aluminium pop rivet.byou can obviously get steel pop rivets that are better.

If you could, I would replace these with steel screws and nylock nuts (socket dome heads). After all, you are taking these out for a reason and who is to say that there won't be another reason in the near future. But I am not one for making things look original if I think the alternative is an improvement.

Good luck with the work, I hope it goes well for you.

15th Oct 2020 8:30pm

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