 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Bad earth on rear lights circuit? |
 
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1777   
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Big fan of additional earths, I've an additional one direct from battery to alarm, new welding cable sized one from battery to starter bolt and from there to chassis, a smaller one from there to bulkhead, it only seemed polite!
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19th Jul 2020 12:27pm |
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| cold Member Since: 15 Dec 2018 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 118 |
Thanks everyone for the help,, really appreciated
 - I have put a temp fix in for now and when I have more time I will try and trace the fault - most likely when I get back from Holiday and will report once I know more - Thanks again  |
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19th Jul 2020 5:24pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831  
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I thought that the rear light -ve was located on the passenger side longitudinal chassis leg close to the battery. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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20th Jul 2020 7:45am |
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| cold Member Since: 15 Dec 2018 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 118 |
ARC - if tye rain holds off I will look for that tonight - thanks
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20th Jul 2020 1:49pm |
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| cold Member Since: 15 Dec 2018 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 118 |
Sorted!! After a few more frustrating days of checking and cleaning earths I started studying wiring diagrams and pictures from the manuals - everything pointed to the RH transfer box earth - but there was one there and cleaning made no difference - the difference was that there should be three! - two connections and three cables. The hidden cable had been put on top of the chassis so couldn’t be seen from below - so a real big thank you to everyone both that posted here and also for the previous posts on other topics at Defender2 - they were also a massive help
and a donation made to Defender2
Pictures posted in case it helps someone else in the future - you can see the leads in one pic and where it was (out of sight) prior  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Jul 2020 6:33pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Good job. That’s more or less exactky the issue I had, only the RHS vertical one.
Went to main dealer for a clutch change, it was hand tight and dirty. Cleaned it up, re-tightened and it was sorted. Paid over £1000 for the privilege too! 🙄 ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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22nd Jul 2020 6:38pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Does anyone have the torque figures for the grounds on the transfer box to hand?
Had a quick WSM look but couldn’t see it, although no doubt there in the 1200 plus pages. Mine has one indicator the rear left that is playing up, tracked it down to grounding also so I need to look at this myself. It may even be similar to the OP’s issue. Thank you. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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23rd Sep 2020 10:54am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344 
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I don't mean this to sound critical, but I am struggling to think of a fastener where a torque figure is less important than this!
Just apply common sense! |
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23rd Sep 2020 11:12am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I would rather it was torqued correctly to be honest, after all that’s what the WSM is for.
The odd part is that it’s one side, swapped the LED light over and it’s not that. Front is working and voltage seems okay. The ground is poor on that side though, I have t done anything with it either so I can only but assume it’s corrosion, worked a little loose or some kind of damage. And it works correctly at alternator charging voltage but not on unlock or indicator on with ignition only on. Hallmarks of a poor ground with high resistance, the increased voltage combats that. But obviously I’d not how it should be. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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23rd Sep 2020 12:04pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344
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23rd Sep 2020 12:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Thank-you.
Is there one for the top transfer box at all? I know when I last checked them out they were cleaned and properly re-fitted. It may not be the issue but I think it’s pretty common to be the culprit. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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23rd Sep 2020 2:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344
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I'm not sure what you mean by "the top transfer box"?
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23rd Sep 2020 5:15pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Not to worry I was thinking of something else. Thank you for the torque figures.
I did look through the WSM but I couldn’t find the page for it, currently I only have access to online versions too. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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23rd Sep 2020 6:00pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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Solved.
It was indeed this ground stud on the RHS of the T box. I unlocked it, dim flash barely any on that side. Got under and ever so slightly tightened the bolt to check, got out and tried the unlock again and it was working so then I knew it was the culprit. Wasn’t particularly dirty or corroded, but rather the bolt loose. So I cleaned everything with brake cleaner, then finally with alcohol swabs. Added some Durite Dielectric grease, taking care not get it in the hole or on the bolts threads. A drip of low strength Loctite 222 with 6NM break away on the threads of the bolt then tighten up to the 12NM. It still didn’t feel quite tight enough to me at that so nipped it up just a touch more. I would say the reason for the single indicator issue was a single ring terminal of the two for that side had high resistance due to being loose. This has happened due to road potholes and rough lanes that I drive on regularly. I had issues with this before after the clutch was changed, evidently the torque alone is not sufficient to keep it in place with the vibration it’s subjected to. So although I’m not a huge fan of Loctite this particular one in this particular instance with a small applied amount should do the trick. Combined with being tightened correctly. I expect he two ring thermals add to this but it’s not uncommon to have multiple ring terminals on a ground stud anyway. I wouldn’t suggest any other Loctite grade though and don’t over apply it only a drip should be fine when fitted to correct torque also. Very pleased with this and a relief as my MOT is in a month, just goes to show it’s always best to never start chopping up wiring up to check things or alter wiring and a Multimeter to identify the culprit is invaluable. If ever you have rear lighting issues or high resistance readings on the ground continuity paths then check this bolt. This is the second time I’ve had issues with it and was first brought about after a clutch change. It wasn’t cleaned, torqued correctly and also had no thread locker to stop it coming loose. I hope this will be the end of it now, and I at least know that there won’t be any worries about seizes bolts due to too much or high strength threadlocker. I’ve found the 222 to be very good, especially for smaller fixings where no viable option is available other than a thread locker. The T box and Defender generally is subject to a lot of vibration and arduous conditions in that location so explains why it started to become lose. It also improved once warm probably due to expansion with the extra heat and also the 2v increase in voltage as well. So there you have it, glad I didn’t jump the gun and buy new rear LED indicators. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Sep 2020 2:02pm |
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